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headlamp issues

 
Old 03-03-2018, 05:16 AM
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tikiwagon
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Default headlamp issues

Hi
I a having troubles with the headlamps on my 63, The high beam is working fine but i have no low(dipped beam), I put in a new headlamp switch and tried a dip/floor switch out of my 59 chevy which i know works okay and both make no difference any suggestions as i must have power to the lights as the main beam works
Thanks
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Old 03-03-2018, 06:01 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Your problem is from the dimmer switch forward - the headlight dash switch is uninvolved in hi/lo beam changes... Check grounds and that the connectors are tight, uncorroded and properly wired.
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Old 03-03-2018, 07:27 AM
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Check for voltage at the socket.
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Old 03-03-2018, 07:37 AM
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There are only a few places your problem can be. The connector coming off the dimmer switch (tan wire), the connection in the outboard firewall connector that the tan wire passes through, a break in the tan wire from the dimmer to the connector at the front driver's fender, and the junction in that connector where the tan wire splits to go from the driver's side to the passenger side (a very common place for a corroded connection).
I assume all four bulbs come on when on bright. If not, you can eliminate all those and go directly to either the connector at the back of the dim bulbs at the grounds (black wire). Again, if the dim bulb does not work on either bright or dim, you have two bad grounds (one for each dim bulb, they don't tie together until the ground screw at the radiator support) OR both dim bulbs are bad.

If all four bulbs work on bright, but no dim bulbs, go back to paragraph one and find the problem with the tan wire.

Last edited by 65GGvert; 03-03-2018 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 03-03-2018, 07:45 AM
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Thanks i will check these out,Yes it lights up all 4 lamps on main so looks like the tan wire you mentioned
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Old 03-03-2018, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tikiwagon View Post
Thanks i will check these out,Yes it lights up all 4 lamps on main so looks like the tan wire you mentioned
that connector under the driver's side fender in front of the wheel well gets a lot of water and dirt over the years, check it carefully. That's where it splits to go to the passenger side, so that's the most likely. Second most likely is the plug coming off the dimmer switch, and third is the connection in the bulkhead most outboard connector (below the master cylinder. You could turn on the dim's and try wiggling each of those connectors and see if your lights flicker. If so, that's the connector you need to work on.
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:42 AM
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Any luck yet?
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:25 PM
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Just been down the garage and all sorted cleaned all the plugs up and they are working a treat again
Thanks for your help
Cheers
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:58 PM
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All seemed to be working for a while but been out a couple of times at night recently and when on High beam the lights are flickering on and off a lot when back on low/dip they seem okay, I pulled apart all the connectors recently and cleaned them all up even though there was no obvious corrosion and took the earth wire off the rad support and gave that a good clean but it still happens, Any ideas?
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Old 04-13-2019, 03:47 PM
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That's a faulty headlight switch. Probably when you put in the one that didn't fix it. If you still have the original put it back in and it should solve your problem. the breaker in the repro switches is not strong enough to handle the bright beam current
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Old 04-13-2019, 03:48 PM
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You may have to eventually put in relays to cut down the current draw on the headlight switch if you can't find one that works.
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Old 04-13-2019, 05:31 PM
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Okay thanks i will try the original again and see what happens
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Old 04-13-2019, 05:35 PM
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If you truly have an original "095" headlight switch they are one-year-only, rare and valuable. Its worth reconditioning it...
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Old 04-14-2019, 10:55 AM
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Just got the old one out, It is a 096 what is the difference and will it be okay?
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Old 04-14-2019, 11:03 AM
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Itíll work just fine and should support the high beam current draw.
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Old 04-14-2019, 05:11 PM
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I will give it a clean and try it, Thanks
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Old 04-14-2019, 05:17 PM
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As long as the dash light dimming rheostat isn't fried you can open up the switch (beware the small parts) and clean the contacts (I prefer DeOxIt) and lube everything lightly - reassemble using a wire to get the tabs on the metal housing just started then remove the wire and secure the tabs. An "095" switch has a distinctive fan-like wafer in front of the rheostat - nobody knows why but some say it was for cooling. The second picture is the thermal cutout that strobes the lights in an over-current condition - this is a weak part on the repros.






Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-14-2019 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:09 AM
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Fantastic help I wont get the chance to strip it as using it in next few days but will take it apart in next week or two
Thanks again
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:28 PM
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:29 PM
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Just found out my one that is in the car is a 095
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