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The seat tracks on my 66 have a ton of slop in them. You will almost get whiplash when I shift gears. I see several vendors sell reproduction tracks. How are these tracks attached to the seat frames? They appear to weld in? Secondly, how much slop do the reproduction seat tracks have when new? Will I notice a big difference?
Very easy to remove and check out. There are 2 bolts at the front of each side of the track that go through the floor. Remove both bolts and then slide the seat forward to remove the rear of the track which slides into a bracket. My guess is you have one or both bolts missing or not secured on the underside of the car.
Very easy to remove and check out. There are 2 bolts at the front of each side of the track that go through the floor. Remove both bolts and then slide the seat forward to remove the rear of the track which slides into a bracket. My guess is you have one or both bolts missing or not secured on the underside of the car.
I checked that first. Bolts are tight. You can see the seat track movements when you look from the front.
There are springs that are used to keep the one portion of the seat track to be tight in the other. Take it apart and replace the springs and that should tighten it up. I have done many with the same problem.
The seat MUST be removed for the car and an angle plate removed that is the actual stop so the one seat track is limited in its travel. Do not be surprised that you will more than likely need to peel back the seat cover to get to this angle bracket.
The seat tracks on my 66 have a ton of slop in them. You will almost get whiplash when I shift gears. I see several vendors sell reproduction tracks. How are these tracks attached to the seat frames? They appear to weld in? Secondly, how much slop do the reproduction seat tracks have when new? Will I notice a big difference?
Steven
Yes, many websites sell C2 Corvette seat tracks. I know, I was looking for days to find a 4 or 6 way power seat track for a C2 Corvette. They don't make them.
There are springs that are used to keep the one portion of the seat track to be tight in the other. Take it apart and replace the springs and that should tighten it up. I have done many with the same problem.
The seat MUST be removed for the car and an angle plate removed that is the actual stop so the one seat track is limited in its travel. Do not be surprised that you will more than likely need to peel back the seat cover to get to this angle bracket.
Aha! I believe you have helped me greatly. Thanks a lot for the link. I will order the parts and rebuild the seat tracks. That appears to be exactly what is wrong with mine. I searched the forum but that thread did not pop up.
Aha! I believe you have helped me greatly. Thanks a lot for the link. I will order the parts and rebuild the seat tracks. That appears to be exactly what is wrong with mine. I searched the forum but that thread did not pop up.
Steven
Glad to be of some help.
And these springs can be a little bit of fun to get to go in...but it is not impossible.
Steven, in addition to the link DUB provided you with, here's another link that is contained within that link. It's a fairly comprehensive post on servicing mid-year seats.
If you haven't seen this material, you might find it helpful. Mid-year seat mechanisms are simple and straight forward. You should have no problem getting them back into good operation. Good luck!
Steven, in addition to the link DUB provided you with, here's another link that is contained within that link. It's a fairly comprehensive post on servicing mid-year seats.
If you haven't seen this material, you might find it helpful. Mid-year seat mechanisms are simple and straight forward. You should have no problem getting them back into good operation. Good luck!
Thomas
Yes sir! I followed that link and it was very helpful also. Should not be a big problem to repair. thanks
The replacement rollers/springs are too small in diameter and allow slop...................at least that was the case a few years ago. If you run into that situation, you can substitute ball bearings for the springs. The ***** are the right size and will tighten the tracks to where there is no slop in them.
The replacement rollers/springs are too small in diameter and allow slop...................at least that was the case a few years ago. If you run into that situation, you can substitute ball bearings for the springs. The ***** are the right size and will tighten the tracks to where there is no slop in them.
My only caveat doing that would be that the surface contact area with ball bearings is much smaller...
...than the bushing springs. That might result in increased wear or an unusual wear pattern on the inside of the round seat frame tubes and/or...
...on the seat track tubes themselves. I don't know if it will or it won't but once you start to deviate from the factory engineering method there might be some unintended consequences that might not show up until several years from now with worn out seat parts.
Please understand I don't wish to be argumentative but I'm bringing this up as a thought. The replacement bushing springs I have used work very well for me. Your results may vary.
Please understand I don't wish to be argumentative but I'm bringing this up as a thought. The replacement bushing springs I have used work very well for me. Your results may vary.
I have yet to have a set of seat tracks where the springs did not tighten them up.
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