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[C2] Battery gauge

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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 03:15 PM
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Default Battery gauge

Got my "new" 66 this week. Stand by for lots of questions.

This one has ZZ4 crate motor and internally regulated alternator. No mechanical regulator on fender like old 66.

Should the battery gauge work with this generation of alternator? No meter deflection when turning on headlights. I know the gauge is a sensitive voltmeter and my old one never worked properly. I'll check for voltage on both sides of the meter and likely replace the meter itself if it will work with internally regulated alternators.

Randy
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 06:30 PM
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If it was wired correctly it should work like the original. The original set up measured the voltage range difference from the starter and horn relay

Last edited by Nowhere Man; Apr 3, 2018 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
If it was wired correctly it should work like the original. The original set up measured the voltage range diffreance from the regulator and horn relay
...it measures the difference in potential (voltage) between the horn relay and the starter...

Dan
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dplotkin
...it measures the difference in potential (voltage) between the horn relay and the starter...

Dan
half way right thanks for the clarification
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 08:25 PM
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I use an alternator with an internal regualtor. I converted over to a volt gauge. Looks good and works good



https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-67-v...gine-swap.html

Tom
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Sky65
I use an alternator with an internal regualtor. I converted over to a volt gauge. Looks good and works good



https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-67-v...gine-swap.html

Tom
Tom

Says it won’t work with factory harness. Did it come with instructions on how to modify stock wiring?

Randy
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 11:46 AM
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When stock, you have two wires, one on each connection, to the gauge connected to 12v. One at the starter and one at the horn relay. Both those wires are pretty obvious because they are black wires connected to red wire sources in both the horn relay and starter and cause the unsuspecting person connecting the wires to connect them wrong sometimes. The black wire at the starter connects directly to the battery as you can see in the diagram marked with the green arrows. The other arrow shows the black/white wire at the horn relay that goes to the other side of the gauge in stock configuration.






EDIT: Use this one below, thanks Sky65 for mentioning the switched voltage. You don't want the gauge reading with the key off, I believe. Disconnect the black and black/white wires at the other end from the gauge also as mentioned.

Here's an option if you want to use the voltage gauge shown instead of the stock "battery" gauge. Connect the source lead for the new gauge to the "gauges" wire from the fuse panel that feeds the other gauges shown by the green arrow in the photo below and the ground lead to the ground point on the panel. That way you would eliminate the extra wiring length and already have a fuse in the line. Probably the best choice unless someone else has done this and recommends a better way. If you use this one, disconnect both the black wire from the starter that goes to the gauge AND the black/white wire at the horn relay to remove the 12v source from both wires, just to be safe. You can use any switched 12v source, but I like the idea of using the same fuse as the other gauges. If you use an unfused, switched source, such as ignition switch add a fuse.



Last edited by 65GGvert; Apr 4, 2018 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 01:10 PM
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Randy. I have an aftermarket harness so my setup would not relate to you. I think when they say it will not fit with stock harness they mean it is not plug and play but it is pretty easy. All you need a a switched power and a ground. 65GGvert has posted many options. Just use the easiest one for you.

Tom

Last edited by Sky65; Apr 4, 2018 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Sky65
Randy. I have an aftermarket harness so my setup would not relate to you. I think when the day will not fit with stock harness they mean it is not plug and play but it is pretty easy. All you need a a switched power and a ground. 65vert has posted many options. Just use the easiest one for you.

Tom
Sky65 made a good point that I overlooked. Neither of the first two options I mentioned are switched, both wires are hot all the time. The third option is switched, so I'd go that way. You don't want the gauge reading 24/7. I edited my post to reflect the change.

Last edited by 65GGvert; Apr 4, 2018 at 01:49 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Sky65 made a good point that I overlooked. Neither of the first two options I mentioned are switched, both wires are hot all the time. The third option is switched, so I'd go that way. You don't want the gauge reading 24/7. I edited my post to reflect the change.
Randy,
I run an internally regulated 12SI (3-wire) alternator in my '65 AC coupe. The conversion harnesses came with the harness kit(s) that I bought from Lectric Limited when we rewired the car bumper to bumper. Lectric Limited sells the conversion harness that you might need depending on what engine harness you might be using. The conversion kit by-passes the VR with a jumper.

Here's a link to the LL conversion harness:
https://www.lectriclimited.com/alter...-harness-85938

The attached PDF show the wiring for our '65. The Battery Gauge works fine with this setup. Ours hangs right on the center line when cruising. The alternator is giving me 14.2 - 14.4 volts at the cigarette lighter (plug in meter).

Hope this helps.
Dave Z
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