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1957 Corvette - No power to coil when in cranking mode . Here is what happens . I could crank the starter all day long in the start position on the ignition switch and the engine wont start but if I let go of the starter position on the switch while the engine is still spinning the engine starts and runs perfect . This is telling me that there is no power going to the coil while the ignition switch is in the start position . Any thoughts ?
There should be a wire going from the solenoid to the coil to bypass the resistor block and give a full 12v to the coil when cranking. Some are wired differently but work the same.
1957 Corvette - No power to coil when in cranking mode . Here is what happens . I could crank the starter all day long in the start position on the ignition switch and the engine wont start but if I let go of the starter position on the switch while the engine is still spinning the engine starts and runs perfect . This is telling me that there is no power going to the coil while the ignition switch is in the start position . Any thoughts ?
Hey Greg , I thought you had enough problems trying to figure out the problem with the Ducoti motorcycle that you are working on . Find the solution yet ?
There should be a wire going from the solenoid to the coil to bypass the resistor block and give a full 12v to the coil when cranking. Some are wired differently but work the same.
I have the purple start wire running from the starter to the ignition but it is not connecting through the ignition switch for power to the coil when in the start position on the ignition switch . The engine starts if you let the switch go back to run while the engine is still spinning but I could crank all day in the start position and it will not start until the switch is let go from the start position .
Check the voltage going to the coil with the ignition switch ON and again while cranking. That should tell you whether the switch is working and how much power is going to the coil.
Found the problem ! The brown resistor wire on the ignition was eliminated since there was no need for the resistor when the distributor was changed from points to HEI . I needed current from the ign.2 on the switch to the hot wire on distributor . So I just ran a jumper wire from the brown terminal on the switch to the green terminal on the switch . Hope this helps someone if they encounter switching from points to HEI .
I had a similar issue w/ my '65 365 car which has TI.
Car always started no problem, but if i shut it down after driving it would not restart even tho it turned over and was getting fuel.
This would happen even if i just stopped to fill the gas tank.
2 weeks ago I changed out the VR - not because of this issue specifically, but because the battery was only at around 11.4 volts (new battery).
I had an originally dated VR w/ new internals, but i suspected it was not doing its job.
So replaced w/ a $20 from my local FLAPS and voltage reading is where it should be and the restart issue seems to have gone away.
Not enough sampling to be sure of that, but 3x since changing and restart was not an issue.
Could the issue have been as rich5962 said: TI is voltage sensitive?
Is it that sensitive to cause what i experienced?