[C2] Engine Timing Chain, Sprocket Sets
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,711
Likes: 179
From: Hightstown NJ
Pop,
The only recommendation I can make is to be sure you use an iron cam gear - not steel. The steel will mill the front of the block without a thrust washer behind it and that will require machining the gear so both gears are coplaner.
Verne
The only recommendation I can make is to be sure you use an iron cam gear - not steel. The steel will mill the front of the block without a thrust washer behind it and that will require machining the gear so both gears are coplaner.
Verne
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 1,938
From: Folsom CA
I would go with Cloyes, they are still a basic manufacturer. Sealed Power buys from Cloyes. For a stock 300 HP the stock timing set would outlast your rings and bearings.
You can buy a true roller and they are better at 4 times the money but for a 300 HP I see no advantage.
You can buy a true roller and they are better at 4 times the money but for a 300 HP I see no advantage.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 1,547
From: Olive branch Ms
I'm not sure where WGuy gets the steel info from but the steel sets have a Torrington bearing which keeps the gear from wearing on the block. I would prefer the steel. I agree with everyone else that the cast should outlast you but the steel sets with the bearing are cheap as well. A cloyes plus roller is a good choice.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,711
Likes: 179
From: Hightstown NJ
I'm not sure where WGuy gets the steel info from but the steel sets have a Torrington bearing which keeps the gear from wearing on the block. I would prefer the steel. I agree with everyone else that the cast should outlast you but the steel sets with the bearing are cheap as well. A cloyes plus roller is a good choice.
Verne
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 1,547
From: Olive branch Ms
I would agree with that. I've just never seen a steel gear without the brass shim or a bearing. But there is no length parts sellers will spare to make something cheaper. I'm building a flathead Ford and the guy is buying all good parts, Offenhauser heads and intake forged rods whatever he needs. He orders 3 carbs last week and tells me what a great price they were. They come in and they are a brand well known for selling inferior parts for everything. I don't have it in me to tell him they are junk. We'll cross that bridge when we get to it.
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,711
Likes: 179
From: Hightstown NJ
One of the other issues I've noted (at least on W motors) is that the new double roller gears were copied from the truck gears, which have a 5deg retard built into them. It's imperative to degree the cam after installing the new set-up. I had to use the 4deg Adv slot in the crank gear to wind up with a 1deg retarded cam. (which I'm fine with).
Verne
Verne
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 12,712
Likes: 2,271
The OE truck replacement roller chain is available in two varieties for small blocks. One has a single indexing hole, which indexes the cam at the OE position, and the other, which costs about the same has two additional indexing holes to allow 4 degrees advance or retard.
Duke
Duke
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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I agree...basic Cloyes will do fine. I ran $30 Cloyes in my 7500+ rpm big block with a .774" lift solid roller cam and springs that could hold up a house on the street and track for years with absolutely no issues or abnormal wear.
I think the absolute best out there is probably Rollmaster with an IWIS chain included..but that's overkill for this sort of build.
JIM
I think the absolute best out there is probably Rollmaster with an IWIS chain included..but that's overkill for this sort of build.
JIM
Last edited by 427Hotrod; Jun 4, 2018 at 10:55 PM.
