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From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
No Start
I would assume that the engine is cold, and the choke is closed tight, flooding the engine, as you say the plugs keep getting wet. Block the choke open to clear the flooding with a short screwdriver and crank the engine while depressing the gas pedal slightly. If the flooding is your problem, the engine should start.
Are you sure you got your plug wires back in the correct order? Double check. Very common error.
Years ago I got the 5 and 7 wires crossed. The car would run as you described. Not a bad idle and break up a little under acceleration. So, I would check those wires first.
i was out of town for a few days so while gone i ordered delco points rotor cap and R45 plugs on line . everything but the plugs were at the house when i got back in town . changed the points and cap and rotor and car started right up . sounds pretty good but pouring rain so cant take for a ride just yet . still seems to have a heavy bog when hitting accelerator quickly that it didn't have before but at least it starts right up now .
all parts bought before were from local advanced auto parts and made in mexico i believe . they didn't have delco in stock . next time i will wait and order on line if necessary .
question : when reading about possible petronix change out which i dont want to do . i read where the coil can limit rpm to 5800 or so and that you need a shp coil for engines that rev more then that . is it possible thats why this 365 hp car wont rev past 5800 or is that just an electronic ignition thing . ?
Your coil theory is BS. Your 365 points car got the same 202 coil as the base 327/250. If your having a bog it could be your timing, and or vacumn advance wrong or its in the carb It sounds like you got some bad new parts.
Last edited by Nowhere Man; Jun 8, 2018 at 01:51 PM.
Your coil theory is BS. Your 365 points car got the same 202 coil as the base 327/250. If your having a bog it could be your timing, and or vacumn advance wrong or its in the carb It sounds like you got some bad new parts.
not really a theory just a question . but is it possible that the original coil was better then the replacement made in mexico coil thats in the car now ? or does coil make no difference when it comes to a points car that revs or should rev past 6k ?
The standard issue points aren't reliable past about 6000 rpm. I think the Delco number is 106(?). The points used in Z 28 were good to 7000 rpm or better. (112?)
not really a theory just a question . but is it possible that the original coil was better then the replacement made in mexico coil thats in the car now ? or does coil make no difference when it comes to a points car that revs or should rev past 6k ?
a coil just stores energy. As Mike said certain points start to break up around 5800 RPM there are more heavy duty points good above 6K. A solid lifter engine should have the heavy duty ones. but you need to figure out if it was points bounce or something else
a coil just stores energy. As Mike said certain points start to break up around 5800 RPM there are more heavy duty points good above 6K. A solid lifter engine should have the heavy duty ones. but you need to figure out if it was points bounce or something else
looks like the points I just installed were D1007
gm # 12338657
guess will need to change these out to the heavy duty points
the regular r 45 plugs came this afternoon. Contemplating whether to change the extended plugs in the car for these.
Guess i I will take car for a ride if dry tomorrow and decide from there.
I hope who ever rebuilt the engine did not use stock rods. They are weak point and known to come through oil pans and blocks at high RPM
you must be a lot of fun at parties , just kidding .
i had a couple 365 cars back in the day and raced them at local drag strips every weekend and power shifted them literally every chance i got . never had one come a part . this car will see a 6k blast maybe once a month and in only one gear probably . just to be sure its running as it should . drives me a little crazy not to know if everything is running up to spec .
Suggestion from memory, not expertise.
Many years ago I did a tune up with similar problems and the condenser was the culprit.
you may be exactly right about this larry . the points i took out of the car originally had the condenser attached to points and the set i put in were admittedly cheap replacements from local auto parts and had separate condenser , i know that doesn't automatically make it bad of course , just an observation . the new set of points i ordered from delco had the condenser as part of the points again and car runs ok now ( haven't driven it yet , never stops raining here ) i have decided to go ahead and change out the plugs and keep the extended tips for spares . the car was running its best with the regular R45 so will put those in this am and go for a ride hopefully later today .
you must be a lot of fun at parties , just kidding .
i had a couple 365 cars back in the day and raced them at local drag strips every weekend and power shifted them literally every chance i got . never had one come a part . this car will see a 6k blast maybe once a month and in only one gear probably . just to be sure its running as it should . drives me a little crazy not to know if everything is running up to spec .
Hope you have good luck with it. I am patiently waiting for dads 65 365 car to be done. The engine is almost done at the engine shop and the body just got to the body shop.