Engine pad decoding for a '63
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2018
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Engine pad decoding for a '63
I'm having trouble with the decoding the front pad number on this 63 convertible that I"m looking at for purchase.
I believe this to be the original motor but trying to verify before I make a purchase. The casting numbers on the right back of the engine seem easier to decode but so far I haven't seen a website or otherwise that can help with these front numbers.
Here's the front pad number: 3105258 FI2 06 RD
3 meaning 1963 (so far so good)
the next set 6 would signify that this was the 5238th made?
Is the F for Flint?
RD is the 327 / 300 HP
what's the I (or maybe 1)2 06?
Am I off all together? Any help is appreciated. thank you.
I believe this to be the original motor but trying to verify before I make a purchase. The casting numbers on the right back of the engine seem easier to decode but so far I haven't seen a website or otherwise that can help with these front numbers.
Here's the front pad number: 3105258 FI2 06 RD
3 meaning 1963 (so far so good)
the next set 6 would signify that this was the 5238th made?
Is the F for Flint?
RD is the 327 / 300 HP
what's the I (or maybe 1)2 06?
Am I off all together? Any help is appreciated. thank you.
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Welcome to the forum! You are correct on all the numbers. The I is a 1, for 12, which is December 6. A picture would help though, since matching numbers doesn’t always mean it’s the original engine. Good luck. 
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3rd Gear
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63 Vette engine numbers w/VIN
Engine casting# 3782870 (rear of motor/drivers side)
Engine id# 3105258 F106 RD (front of block/passenger side) - 327. 300 hp
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That engine pad looks legit to me but I am not a expert. The cylinder block surface has been broached as can be seen in the semi circular machine marks.
Some may say that's bad but in a perfect world for a shop to guarantee there work and a good cylinder head seal the slight surface cut was taken, don't be afraid of that. That being said because of all the value assigned to numbers matching these days most of us would have to be convinced the surface needed the surface cut because the numbers are valuable to the car plus the original surface cut broach marks which run parallel to the car (front to back).
Looks good to me but post a picture of the complete engine showing the cylinder head symbol just next to the front pad, (double humps etc.).
Forgot to add, my 63 is approx 2000 units earlier.
Some may say that's bad but in a perfect world for a shop to guarantee there work and a good cylinder head seal the slight surface cut was taken, don't be afraid of that. That being said because of all the value assigned to numbers matching these days most of us would have to be convinced the surface needed the surface cut because the numbers are valuable to the car plus the original surface cut broach marks which run parallel to the car (front to back).
Looks good to me but post a picture of the complete engine showing the cylinder head symbol just next to the front pad, (double humps etc.).
Forgot to add, my 63 is approx 2000 units earlier.
Last edited by tbarb; Jun 14, 2018 at 11:29 AM.
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3rd Gear
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3 Vette engine numbers w/VIN
thanks again everyone. This is what I was afraid of.
So to be clear, what you guys are saying is that this is a 63 Vette engine, just not the one that belongs with this car?
So to be clear, what you guys are saying is that this is a 63 Vette engine, just not the one that belongs with this car?
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Orientation, and them some
Are my eyes deceiving me, or is the font size of the VIN derivative the same size as the font size of the engine stamp.
This pad looks a bit "iffy" to me. And 5258 does not show up in NMVTIS.
Are my eyes deceiving me, or is the font size of the VIN derivative the same size as the font size of the engine stamp.
This pad looks a bit "iffy" to me. And 5258 does not show up in NMVTIS.
Last edited by emccomas; Jun 14, 2018 at 01:04 PM.
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I think it's normal for the VIN font size to be different than the other. The fonts on my original 327 are different just like this one.
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The angle of the photo may be throwing that perception off.
Here is a picture of my 64 engine pad, and a comparison
Last edited by emccomas; Jun 14, 2018 at 02:35 PM.
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I've posted the dimensions for the length of the seven character packages and the tools that I made to check them prior to judging engine pads at the Bloomington event decades ago.
Anyone can make these in just a few minutes from thin sheets of aluminum.
Hold the tool against the number package and you will instantly know if the stamp was correct.
Because the characters are in a fixture, the length of the 7 character group can't deviate very much.
The 5/32" is for the VIN stamp and the 3/16" is for the engine plant stamp. Those dimensions are the character sizes.
The 1.040" and 1.270" are the lengths of the character package end to end.
The overall package dimensions may vary a bit depending on how deep the characters are hammered into the block. It won't change more than about .020" end to end though.
I caught a lot of fakes using these. That was decades ago though before most of the "stampers" knew there was a dimension.
I still have those tools.
Anyone can make these in just a few minutes from thin sheets of aluminum.
Hold the tool against the number package and you will instantly know if the stamp was correct.
Because the characters are in a fixture, the length of the 7 character group can't deviate very much.
The 5/32" is for the VIN stamp and the 3/16" is for the engine plant stamp. Those dimensions are the character sizes.
The 1.040" and 1.270" are the lengths of the character package end to end.
The overall package dimensions may vary a bit depending on how deep the characters are hammered into the block. It won't change more than about .020" end to end though.
I caught a lot of fakes using these. That was decades ago though before most of the "stampers" knew there was a dimension.
I still have those tools.
Last edited by Critter1; Jun 14, 2018 at 04:45 PM.
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I've posted the dimensions for the length of the seven character packages and the tools that I made to check them prior to judging engine pads at the Bloomington event decades ago.
Anyone can make these in just a few minutes from thin sheets of aluminum.
Hold the tool against the number package and you will instantly know if the stamp was correct.
Because the characters are in a fixture, the length of the 7 character group can't deviate very much.
I caught a lot of fakes using these. That was decades ago though before most of the "stampers" knew there was a dimension.
Anyone can make these in just a few minutes from thin sheets of aluminum.
Hold the tool against the number package and you will instantly know if the stamp was correct.
Because the characters are in a fixture, the length of the 7 character group can't deviate very much.
I caught a lot of fakes using these. That was decades ago though before most of the "stampers" knew there was a dimension.
The shorter one for the VIN derivative, and the longer one for the engine stamp?