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The original t'stat in my '54 was rated at 145 degrees. Good luck finding one of those. Put a 160 degree t'stat in and make sure the radiator is properly cleaned out.
There is a soft plug in the block that shouldn't be there that is commonly (by mistake) installed behind the water pump on a '54 Corvette if you have an original Blue Flamer. Installing it will cause overheating.
They also like a lot of timing (advance). I ran mine just below the point where it would hardly turn over/hard to start.
From a 7.5 year old post from Chuck Gongloff that solved my 1954 Corvette overheating issue:
Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
Two thoughts in addition to the one you mention, recoring the radiator.
1. Timing. Too retarded will cause the car to run hot.
2. Water pump and water pump installation.
I don't have a picture, but the passenger car engine/water pump area utilizes a freeze plug in the front of the block under the pump.
In the Corvette motor, because of the "low profile" water pump, that freeze plug is not used. Commonly, when blocks are rebuilt, the shop will install that freeze plug, limiting water flow....causing overheating.
My 54 never overheated, and I'd let it idle in the heat for long periods.
Pic on right Corvette pump spacer large hole is open , engine on left Corvette engine has to remove that freeze plug or engine will get hot . So take the freeze plug out if a Corvette engine
Removing the water pump only you can see if it's in or out of the engine
I was looking at old posts and I think I have a car in the shop with this same issue. ( I didnt restore it )
Funny - this photo is from my engine in my 54 - this is an engine I built in my fathers barn
Just a helpful hint
The big plug MUST be removed for 53 54 Corvette - If not - the car will NEVER cool - NEVER
06-19-2018, 02:47 PM
