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Trying to assist a friend with a '58 Vette (manual shift)...
At idle in neutral (about 700 rpm), the end of the clutch fork vibrates noisily up and down about 1/2 inch; when the rpm is raised, the vibration stops at the higher frequency. Or, if the pedal is depressed enough to remove the freeplay, the vibration stops. When driving, the higher rpm eliminates the vibration. Has anyone had this problem?
Although I have a C2 and thoroughly understand its clutch system, I have not worked a C1 before, so, what do you guys think is the root cause of the vibration?
Here are a few guesses on my part:
1. Clutch fork clips at the bell housing pivot bolt are missing or broken
2. Clutch fork pivot bolt is loose and wobbling.
3. Incorrect throwout bearing (too small a diameter into the fork)?
4. Incorrect clutch fork?
Trying to assist a friend with a '58 Vette (manual shift)...
At idle in neutral (about 700 rpm), the end of the clutch fork vibrates noisily up and down about 1/2 inch; when the rpm is raised, the vibration stops at the higher frequency. Or, if the pedal is depressed enough to remove the freeplay, the vibration stops. When driving, the higher rpm eliminates the vibration. Has anyone had this problem?
Although I have a C2 and thoroughly understand its clutch system, I have not worked a C1 before, so, what do you guys think is the root cause of the vibration?
Here are a few guesses on my part:
1. Clutch fork clips at the bell housing pivot bolt are missing or broken
2. Clutch fork pivot bolt is loose and wobbling.
3. Incorrect throwout bearing (too small a diameter into the fork)?
4. Incorrect clutch fork?
Is the over-center pivot spring on the frame correctly installed? It's there for a reason.
Trying to assist a friend with a '58 Vette (manual shift)...
At idle in neutral (about 700 rpm), the end of the clutch fork vibrates noisily up and down about 1/2 inch; when the rpm is raised, the vibration stops at the higher frequency. Or, if the pedal is depressed enough to remove the freeplay, the vibration stops. When driving, the higher rpm eliminates the vibration. Has anyone had this problem?
Although I have a C2 and thoroughly understand its clutch system, I have not worked a C1 before, so, what do you guys think is the root cause of the vibration?
Here are a few guesses on my part:
1. Clutch fork clips at the bell housing pivot bolt are missing or broken
2. Clutch fork pivot bolt is loose and wobbling.
3. Incorrect throwout bearing (too small a diameter into the fork)?
4. Incorrect clutch fork?
Is the clutch anti-rattle spring in place on the clutch fork?
Anti-rattle spring was missing. Ordered it and then installed it today. Unfortunately, the fork still vibrates up and down at low rpm but not as noisly as before. Problem still exists.
By grabbing the end of the fork and moving it farther away (towards the front of the car), the forcing function could be eliminated, but the clutch freeplay was proper and I didn't want to create still more freeplay. Still with proper adjustment, one could feel the TOB oscillating. Pressing the fork backwards by hand about 1/4 inch, the freeplay could be eliminated and the vibration diminished.
Not satisfied, I removed the inspection plate from the bellhousing and investigated...
I noted a Borg and Beck style pressure plate; the clutch disk which was replaced 3 years ago according to the owner, appeared to have proper thickness. The TOB, on the other hand, appeared to be several loose parts - an inner sleeve which included the TOB's fork flange (nearest the transmission) was loose and could be moved fore and aft, independent of the rest of the TOB. The seal around the bearing was very loose and the bearing could be shifted radially and a 1/8 " gap made to appear by gentle prodding with a screw driver. Also noted was a part number: 614018 which was used by AC DELCO and National for this application. Conclusion... The TOB had failed and needs replacement.
TOB trans flange in normal position TOB flange separating from TOB body TOB flange at full separation touching trans bearing retainer
The "U" shaped tension spring with rivet that keeps tension on the throw out bearing might have the tangs broken or wore which makes it fit loose in the throw out bearing causing the rattle . I had this problem on mine . They are replaceable with just installing the rivet and peening it over .
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Clutch Problem
