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so the car has been running great since rebuilt 327/365 done a couple years back , not even 500 on it . Right after the rebuild i had a restart issue ,hot day went to parts store come out car wont start , that became the standard after that once it gets hot it doesnt want to start. So i put a ballasted coil in and eliminated the external resistor , that worked fine for awhile . this year back to the same bs . I take it to the mechanic yesterday he puts in a new coil and adjusts the carb. I take off and shes running like a champ ! after about 20 minutes on the highway at 70 to 80 it starts missing, i downshift and it clears up , i get off my exit and drive less than a mile it starts missing again and just dies , midway though a turn on another street ! So i coast to a stop , call for a tow , wait about 30 minutes truck shows up , i try starting boom she fires off like nothing happened . I get it to the house boom she fires off again and runs like a champ and sounds great drove it off the ramp truck and into the driveway . I talked to mechanic he says put new coil in and go back to external resistor , the car has electronic ignition , new wires and a whole new harness under the hood . The car runs at 180 but under that hood it is some kinda hot ! when he took out the old coil he said he could hardly hold onto it . the other day when it did this i couldnt keep my hand on the fuel filter it was that hot. It sounds to me that something somewhere is getting hot and breaking contact electrically , or am i getting vapor lock from the fuel filter roasting on that intake ? Anybody have any ideas or suggestions before i take the gas pipe ove this ?
A coil would have to get some kind of hot to have the symptoms you described. It's unlikely. Is the electronic ignition factory TI or something else? If it's something else and you can put points in the distributor for a test, do that, run the car as you would otherwise and try again to reproduce the hot start problem. It may turn out to be the ignition module. You may also want to double check the ignition module wiring to be sure it's wired they way the instructions show. Some require the hot wire to be connected to 12v directly, others require it through a ballast resistor. Some won't work well at all with a ballasted coil.
Sounds like you do have some kind of heat sink problem.....they are hard to find when it is intermittent. First thing you need to do is find out if it’s electrical or fuel.. next time you have an issue pull a spark plug wire and see if you have a good spark, if not pull the coil wire and check it there. If spark is good at the plugs your looking for a fuel issue, spark at the coil but not the plugs probably a rotar issue.
dont get depressed its all part of hot roding.
good luck
Low Rider
If float Level is good, Sounds more like vapor lock. Does your intake have the heat shield still in place? It is inside motor so you would have to remember when installed. Heat blank offs on intake gaskets? Run the car, when problem happens, have ice in a cooler and pack it around the intake under the carb wait a few minutes and try running.
One other thing 500 in two years.....get out there and drive that beautiful car...that’s what they are for.
the 500 was due to it being tied up in one paint prison for 9 months and then getting back a total mess just in time for fall and winter , then getting it into paint rehab from april to august this year to make it right ! believe me its a driver not a show car and i miss driving it ! But its hard to drive it when it dies and you end up on a flatbed ! Shes not a trailer queen and i dont sit in the garage drooling over it , i use it , (when its running )
If float Level is good, Sounds more like vapor lock. Does your intake have the heat shield still in place? It is inside motor so you would have to remember when installed. Heat blank offs on intake gaskets? Run the car, when problem happens, have ice in a cooler and pack it around the intake under the carb wait a few minutes and try running.
I dont know if there were heat shields on the intake or not i could maybe ask the motor shop or maybe look at the receipt and see if that gasket is there , would the rebuilder have used that specific gasket ? He is a chevy guy but may have just used a regular gasket ?
I had a Cobra replica with MSD ignition that failed in exactly the way you describe. It is common. BTW, all the previous repairs worked not because of the parts that were changed, but because you allowed it to cool while the work was done.
It sounds like you did have a coil problem but you are probably beyond that now and into another issue. A bad coil that breaks down when it gets hot isn't going to clear up with a downshift and some revs to clear the motor. I doubt a resister was the problem either as typically either they work or they are broken (element snapped). For current issues I would go with the guys and the fuel perculation or vapor lock issues.
A coil would have to get some kind of hot to have the symptoms you described. It's unlikely. Is the electronic ignition factory TI or something else? If it's something else and you can put points in the distributor for a test, do that, run the car as you would otherwise and try again to reproduce the hot start problem. It may turn out to be the ignition module. You may also want to double check the ignition module wiring to be sure it's wired they way the instructions show. Some require the hot wire to be connected to 12v directly, others require it through a ballast resistor. Some won't work well at all with a ballasted coil.
well, like i said when he pulled the old one it was red hot , any recommendations for a new one ?
I had a Cobra replica with MSD ignition that failed in exactly the way you describe. It is common. BTW, all the previous repairs worked not because of the parts that were changed, but because you allowed it to cool while the work was done.
you might be on the right track there , im thinking its electrical , mech said yestrday the carb wasnt perckin fuel after he drove it , what gets me is when i changed it to the ballasted coil all was well problem solved so i figured it was the resistor , then it happened again i was getting a sticker the other day and while it was in the garage it was idleing of course while hot then the idle started to struggle a little and then boom it died , wouldnt restart with the key , we pushed it outside and rolled down a decline with key on and bingo it fired off , i got about 2 miles from the place and it sputtered but cleared up and got it home , would it have jumped started if it were electrical ?
A $20 Harbor Frieigjt I/R temperature gun aimed at the fuel bowls the next time you have an issue will tell the tale. Anything north of 140* is a problem.
And maybe a new mechanic.
More diagnosis and less parts swapping.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Aug 17, 2018 at 07:42 AM.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by number3
well, like i said when he pulled the old one it was red hot , any recommendations for a new one ?
While I, in general, am against swapping parts to fix a problem, many if not all of your symptoms mimic those I experienced when my coil went bad.
It would lope along fine, but cut out and even die at high rpm's, and after a longer drive would get so hot that you couldn't touch it. I just replaced it with a NAPA generic 12V negative ground coil, and it worked so well I left it in. But I would also check the ignition wiring including the ballast resistor and make sure that my set up is correct for my ignition.
You could have more than one problem, also. But try to fix one at a time.
A $20 Harbor Frieigjt I/R temperature gun aimed at the fuel bowls the next time you have an issue will tell the tale. Anything north of 140* is a problem.
And maybe a new mechanic.
More diagnosis and less parts swapping.
the reason he swapped out the coil was the one in there had been crushed as it was larger than the original and , the guy who put that one in wasnt the sharpest tool in the shed i soon found out . The guy i use now is tried and true does a lot of cars here on the cape and knows his stuff and actually had a couiple c2's in the past . Hes not the type to throw parts at it. when he saw that it was crushed he decided to replace it and said it was red hot when he pulled it.
While I, in general, am against swapping parts to fix a problem, many if not all of your symptoms mimic those I experienced when my coil went bad.
It would lope along fine, but cut out and even die at high rpm's, and after a longer drive would get so hot that you couldn't touch it. I just replaced it with a NAPA generic 12V negative ground coil, and it worked so well I left it in. But I would also check the ignition wiring including the ballast resistor and make sure that my set up is correct for my ignition.
You could have more than one problem, also. But try to fix one at a time.
thats exactly what my guy told me last night when i talked to him , whats the proper way to wire that resistor if i replace the ballasted coil ? Feed the pink in one end of resistor and run a wire back to the pos terminal from the other end ? what value resistor do i need or are they all the same ?
number3, I believe Richard ( Avispa ) asked which electronic ignition you were using, did I miss your answer?
I too would be curious just how hot the fuel bowls are getting. If they are getting exceptionally hot, a simple and inexpensive device to try is one of these... especially a Holley with how the bowls are positioned. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...CABEgISyPD_BwE
I've actually made a few in the past myself. Just make a cardboard template that fits around any linkage or fittings on the carb/intake and when you're happy transfer it to the aluminum and cut/trim to match. Some folks consider them a band-aide, but they were used a lot back in the day on many cars to keep cooler fuel in the carb.
I went through 2 coils in a short period of time (not on my Vette but 33 Ford w/sbc) … I think they were Pertronix ... Installed Autozone off the shelf and problem solved. Coils were so hot they would burn your skin. Start/stop issues with no consistency.
If you think the problem is a heat related electrical component failing, try using a can of Dust Off or similar product to spray the suspect pat. It will cool the part and area very quickly. I used this on an old Datsun I had. The distributor module would get hot and fail. I sprayed it down and the car would start and run fine. Jerry
getting depressed
