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Here is a puzzle for you. I cannot figure this one out...
This concerns my Fuel Gauge and my Temp Gauge. Both are off and here's the weird part. At idle the fuel reads high and the temp reads normal. At cruising speed the fuel reads low and the temp reads high. i.e when cruising, my temp reads on the high line...when I come to a stop light, almost immediately the temp drops to 180. I have checked it with a temp gun and verified that when it reads high or at 180, the temp out of the thermostat hose opening is ~178
Weird right? I have checked all the grounds. All are good. The only thing electrical I have done recently is replace the Voltage Regulator. I did what I believe is a proper installation including polarizing the regulator.
I would STILL run the extra ground (and I did on my 61) that JohnZ describes in this article....it won't hurt anything and will absolutely eliminate the fuel gauge ground side of things as an issue... Then you can go from there...if the problem persists....the ground is the only common place where the fuel and temp gauges are connected...you'll want to check your instrument cluster ground too....its on one of the screws on the back of the dash pod...red arrows are grounds.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Aug 26, 2018 at 07:37 AM.
I would STILL run the extra ground (and I did on my 61) that JohnZ describes in this article....it won't hurt anything and will absolutely eliminate the fuel gauge ground side of things as an issue...
Fuel gauge already has the additional ground to frame.
Fuel gauge already has the additional ground to frame.
Read my edit above....you either have a ground issue or two different problems...
Both gauges move from the voltage as determined by various resistance to ground - one through the temp sending unit on the engine and the other through the fuel sending unit on the gas tank. Two completely different paths to ground.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Aug 26, 2018 at 07:39 AM.
The temp gauge sees a higher voltage as a higher temperature, while the gas gauge sees higher voltage as a lower gas level. At higher rpm, your generator can generate a higher voltage. Typically, this is not a huge issue, unless you have poor or missing grounds, hence Frankie’s questions.
I had a similar situation with my temp gauge needle pegging at higher RPMs and the returning to normal temp at idle. The ammeter showed overcharging at higher RPMs which corresponded to the temp needle moving. I didn't look at my fuel gauge but it could have been doing similar things. I replaced my voltage regulator and that solved the problem. Possibly the regulator that you replaced is defective? I bought my regulator from LectricLimited and it's seems to be working properly.
I had a similar situation with my temp gauge needle pegging at higher RPMs and the returning to normal temp at idle. The ammeter showed overcharging at higher RPMs which corresponded to the temp needle moving. I didn't look at my fuel gauge but it could have been doing similar things. I replaced my voltage regulator and that solved the problem. Possibly the regulator that you replaced is defective? I bought my regulator from LectricLimited and it's seems to be working properly.
That was going to be my next move. I have honestly checked all the grounds and they look good
I ordered a new Voltage Regulator and am getting ready to install it. Question is, I have converted to a modern AM/FM Radio. Can I remove and not reinstall the radio bypass condenser on the Generator?
The negative battery cable goes above the starter to one of the bolts on the bell housing this is your main ground should be tight and clean. If the RPM goes up could be loose causing loss of connection
When I first got my 62 (mid 70's) the only things that worked were the starter and headlights. The gas gage would go FULL when you stepped on the brakes. Ended up being many grounds that were loose, missing, or connected to painted surfaces. Still sounds like a ground issue.
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Puzzle!?!!
