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I'll be reinstalling my freshly restored Holley 3247 soon on my project 427/425 66 coupe. I'm going to do everything I can (which is not much) to ensure that the fuel tank and fuel lines are purged from crud. Any tips on this would be appreciated. I cannot remove the fuel tank because the spare tire tub lid hanger bolts are frozen/rusted in place into the frame. This is a whole another problem in itself. I do plan to empty the fuel tank with a fuel transfer pump and add fresh gas. Car was running fine 9 months ago when the engine was pulled for rebuild.
Anyway, I'd like to put a filter between the fuel pump and carb so as to protect my beautifully restored, date correct 3247. I do not want to crud up the bronze filters inside the carb. As everyone knows there is no provision for an external filter on a 66 BB and I'm not willing to cut the original fuel feed line to install one. This would be a temporary setup until I'm satisfied that there is no contamination of fuel.
im soliciting suggestions. Thanks
Last edited by Tcheairs38655; 09-23-2018 at 03:30 PM.
nowhere man. You got that right. Never should have bought this car.
Ok. How 'bout this? Rubber fuel line from pump to inlet block on carb. Big AC Filter inline for awhile at least.
I would be real careful with the rubber fuel line, it it gets caught in something and leaks you will have a fire that could be a disaster. If it was ok nine months ago it will be fine, make sure to use some stable in the fuel if you don't drive it much.
nowhere man. You got that right. Never should have bought this car.
Ok. How 'bout this? Rubber fuel line from pump to inlet block on carb. Big AC Filter inline for awhile at least.
On my 496 BBC I used a Holley double pumper 950HP carb that I already had from one of my race motors. They don't have any internal filters so I needed to use something as a filter. Refer to the photo below. I used a OEM looking filter. This filter requires you to make the fuel injection style O ring bubble ends it is not a flare fitting type connection. And before there are 10 posts from all the smarty pants on this board there is air space all the way around the filter it doesn't touch anything. I can get you a part number if you want.
In reviewing your post I would personally find a way to remove the tank have it cleaned or simply get a new one. Having to fight trash in the fuel lines is not fun and no matter how good of a filter you use the thought of having it clog at the worst time comes to my mind. I am of the mindset to fix it right the first time instead of going half way.
Dave has the right solution. If you don't want to cut the original line, get a replacement line and cut that one. If you want to use rubber, be sure to buy hose rated for fuel, SAE standard J30.
There's a short piece of rubber hose at the rear connecting the fuel gage sensor outlet to the hard metal frame line. I cut it and installed an in-line filter in it with clamps. I had a new tank but I believe I didn't want to run the sintered brass bushings in my carb inlets and that's why I installed the filter. No problem in 30 years. Use high quality fuel line rated for ethanol.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 09-24-2018 at 07:13 AM.
There's a short piece of rubber hose at the rear connecting the fuel gage sensor outlet to the hard metal frame line. I cut it and installed an in-line filter in it with clamps. I had a new tank but I believe I didn't want to run the sintered brass bushings in my carb inlets and that's why I installed the filter. No problem in 30 years. Use high quality fuel line rated for ethanol.
On my 496 BBC I used a Holley double pumper 950HP carb that I already had from one of my race motors. They don't have any internal filters so I needed to use something as a filter. Refer to the photo below. I used a OEM looking filter. This filter requires you to make the fuel injection style O ring bubble ends it is not a flare fitting type connection. And before there are 10 posts from all the smarty pants on this board there is air space all the way around the filter it doesn't touch anything. I can get you a part number if you want.
In reviewing your post I would personally find a way to remove the tank have it cleaned or simply get a new one. Having to fight trash in the fuel lines is not fun and no matter how good of a filter you use the thought of having it clog at the worst time comes to my mind. I am of the mindset to fix it right the first time instead of going half way.
No smarty reply - that's a very slick and sanitary installation.
So, Dan, you are saying that placing the filter before the fuel pump (at the tank outlet) should not present any fuel starvation problems on the high performance BB 427? Or at least it has not on your car? By far the easiest way to go. And why have you eliminated the bronze filters at the bowl inlets?
So, Dan, you are saying that placing the filter before the fuel pump (at the tank outlet) should not present any fuel starvation problems on the high performance BB 427? Or at least it has not on your car? By far the easiest way to go. And why have you eliminated the bronze filters at the bowl inlets?
Thanks
TC
No - it hasn't presented any issues although I don't regularly rip off 6,000 + shifts in the car. In fact - I also have a Holley electric fuel pump mounted after the filter back there and I almost never run it. I've used it a few times to prime the carb but even insulated it makes so much noise I feel I'm running the battery down before I even engage the starter - although I know I'm not. The mechanical one seems to pull fuel fine through both of them. If I were going to the drag strip I would probably flip on the electric pump just to be sure I don't get fuel starvation.
The sintered fuel filters in the Holley inlets used to have a reputation for clogging up and causing problems years ago - probably due to the crud starting to develop in a lot of the 60s era cars. I don't see much written about them any more so maybe by now everyone has cleaned the gunk out of their old fuel tanks or replaced them with new.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 09-24-2018 at 11:21 AM.
The 65 396/425 used an AC 416 in line filter. I can't say for sure, but the 65 pump to carb line and filter, should work on the 66 425, with little or no "adjustment". It would cost you a little over $100 to find out (less if you could find a Fram or other aftermarket replacement for the $55 repro AC 416 filter), and it would be a lot cleaner and safer than cobbling something together with rubber lines, etc.
The 65 396/425 used an AC 416 in line filter. I can't say for sure, but the 65 pump to carb line and filter, should work on the 66 425, with little or no "adjustment". It would cost you a little over $100 to find out (less if you could find a Fram or other aftermarket replacement for the $55 repro AC 416 filter), and it would be a lot cleaner and safer than cobbling something together with rubber lines, etc.
That's what I was thinking too. The entire setup from a 65 396 would make a nice factory appearing installation.
09-23-2018, 03:25 PM
Inline fuel filter 66 427/425 restoration
That is the place to put it
