So I was wondering if there was a pre determined shim stack amount for the trailing arms, where it goes into the frame, or weather there was some measurement that needed to be done. I looked in the shop manual but didn't find anything.

1963 Corvette


Thank you

 

I'm not aware of any predetermined pack of shims for any midyear. I would suspect that the factory may have had a general knowledge of what to put in based on the countless number of cars coming down the line. You should have a package of shims from a Vette parts supplier, ready for your alignment shop. There is a way to pin them in place so they won't drop out. Do a search for that process. Dennis

 

Long Island and other vendors sell a T/A shim pack.....I don't think I used any of mine when the T/As were rebuilt as the existing shims were OK. The shim packs generally have the slotted shims and not the original 63 style with holes that the front bushing bolt goes through -- making alignment a PITA.

I have the slotted shims and had the hole for the long cotter pin added to secure the later slotted shims....

 

I have the shim pack but Im unclear how many are required on each side of the T/A.

 

Check through my recent posts and you will find lots of info to read up on. Al W.

 

 

The shims determine rear toe-in or toe-out and tracking. Toe adjustment and tracking can be roughed in at home using string lines and straight edges if you want to go to the trouble. If you are not prepared to do that then no, there's no way for you to otherwise determine at home how many shims are required on each side.

 

 

I guess I should have qualified my earlier response to include that if you by chance kept a record of the original shims that were in place before tearing the car down - it would be close enough to get to an alignment shop by replacing the original shim packs with an equal thickness of your new shims.

 

 

Since its a huge pain to get to the trailing arm bolt when the body is on the frame, and I'd like have a good job done by the alignment shop, can I have them do it without the body on ? Or will that weight of the body need to be applied to get the proper toe in and out.

 

I wouldn't ... that front bolt isn't THAT tough to get to....just protect the forward edge of the paint on the front of the wheel arch with tape or a rag when removing the bolt. The bolt must be torqued with the weight of the car on the wheels - this is imperative....

Which is why my picture shows earlier in this thread....the tire/wheel are removed to provide better access but the car's weight needs to be on the suspension.

 

Got it. Thank you very much

 

You can set the track and toe by installing the rear tire, lifting it up to where the driveshaft is almost horizontal then run a string around the rear tire and forward to a point on the frnot hub in the center. Do this before you connect the spring.

Do the exact same on both sides and set the track by installing shims on the inside (inboard) side until both sides measure the same at the front wheel hub center. This will ensure the track is correct on both sides and the rear follows the front. At that point set the toe in by measuring from the front of the rear tire and compare to a measurement at the rear of the tires. Make the adjustments equal on both sides so you move both tires in/out the same amount. This way the track stays straight while you adjust toe.

Set the camber with a 2' level to where the rear tires are vertical and you will be fine, you probably want to get that some what close before you run the string up the side to set track. Don't forget to tighten/torque the camber adjusting bolts to the spec When finished so the cam does not slip and loose adjustment.

If you take your time you may get it better than the alignment shop. When the restoration is finished do it again with all the weight on the suspension and double check your work or go to the alignment shop.

 

'spudman'

Not knowing if you are aware of this or not but you do know that there are two different designs of trailing arm shims.

If you car is factory and what to keep it original to that era. Your trailing arm shims will NOT be slotted thus causing you to have to remove the trailing arm bolt to change the toe setting.

If you go with what Frankie did to his. Which I have done many times also. He used the slotted shims that GM came out with many years later which makes changing the toe much easier when it is on the alignment rack. BUT...it does require you to drill a hole in your frame so the long cotter pin can be used to make sure that these shims do not come out.

DUB

 

 

Here's what I did with my '67 last year. I bought two sets of shims...the original style with holes at either end and the later style slotted style. I had the car aligned using the slotted shims. I then took the car to my buddy's shop (who has a lift) and removed the slotted shims from their four locations keeping track of the number and thickness of each one. I then removed the trailing arm bolt and inserted the factory stock shims (the ones with the holes) using the same thickness and number of shims (on each side) that I had just removed. One and done. The factory shims aren't going anywhere. As often as we, typically , align these cars this made the most sense for me. No frame drilling, no shims falling out.