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Great photo. Take a deep breath and get a good night's sleep before going further.
1. The strut rods are adjusted too short (no threads are showing). If you have an original strut rod, you need to lengthen the adjustable rods until they match a factory fixed rod with an extra ~1/2 inch length for initial camber. Leave the adjustable rod lock-nuts loose for now (the black center adjustment rod should be able to spin by hand).
Maybe someone has the factory rod length handy to help set the initial length?
2. Install the lengthened strut rods, with the outer bolts loose to make it easy for the trailing arm to move up and down. The trailing arm must be able to move up and down, because the axle drive shafts must be near level for the long spring end bolts to line up with the spring eyes. Jack and/or block up the trailing arm to achieve near level driveshafts.
3. Clamp and jack the spring end. The car chassis, the trailing arm, and the loaded spring should be stable (stable enough to walk away and take photos).
The trailing arm bolt should line up.
If the long bolt does not line up, photograph the misalignment (fore/aft or inboard/outboard).
When I disconnected the rear spring and later reconnected the rear spring (without any issues) the following were always in place:
1. I had sufficient weight in the vehicle so that jacking spring upwards did not raise the vehicle off the frame supports. This is important from a number of reasons, but safety is one of them.
2. Shock absorber and strut rod were hooked up (in addition to the half-shafts) to provide stability to the trailing arm and to ensure trailing arm movement up and down was in the factory intended arc. The trailing arm will still require some additional movement to correctly make up to the spring, but it will now move in the natural factory designed arc.
3. The Chevrolet factory service manual states that for removal and installation of the rear spring, the spring will need to be nearly flat and then the trailing arm and link bolt are fitted into the spring end hole(s). I really can't remember how flat or how much of an arc I had on the spring at the point of final make-up, but it was certainly pushed quite a ways upward with the jack. This is the reason for the extra weight on the rear that I mentioned in #1, since as you jack up the spring, it tends to lift the car off the jack stands unless there is sufficient weight in the back.
Section 4 in the Chevrolet Service Manual tells how to remove and install the rear spring...........but the factory uses a slightly different technique than most of us use. They strap/chain the stretched spring to the frame to hold it in that extended position and then remove the nut and link bolt...........or install the link bolt and nut. Most of us don't see the need for this and simply do it all using the jack for support and the spring under compression. But note that the factory manual calls for the spring to be nearly flat during this time and the shocks, struts, and half-shafts to all be connected. When we recently did this very procedure (spring install) on my friend's 1969 Corvette, we added about 300-400 pounds to the rear of the car to make everything nice and stable. This made all the difference in the world, as we were able to jack the spring exactly where we needed it without any issues. His car was still apart at this time from a restoration and the body was very light and essentially bare. In a car that is mostly together, less weight would be needed.
Now just in case some folks say you can also do this procedure with a light car body and without the jack, but using a 7-8 foot steel rod.............yes this is also a viable option. I did it this way on the passenger side to prove the point.......that it was doable. But for us at the time it was not ideal. I wanted to take my time and make sure everything lined up perfectly and fit together correctly. So we added the weight to the rear and took our time and did both sides (redid passenger side) using the jack to get everything the way we wanted and all our checks made. Then we removed the extra weight. Either way is workable, but I prefer using the floor jack. It allows me to do the job by myself (if needed) and to take my time.
For what it's worth. Maybe I need to take a road trip and visit the OP. Haven't been to NJ for a number of years. Bought my 1967 car from Lakewood NJ.
Larry
EDIT: I really recommend installing the black rubber cushions vs poly.
Last edited by Powershift; Nov 1, 2018 at 09:54 PM.
Could a 2" ratchet strap be used to snug the spring up where it needs to go. Grab the frame above the spring and ratchet it up. Maybe if ratcheting does not offer enough lift you could use the jack to raise the spring and the ratchet strap to hold it in place safely while you install.
These have 10,000 pound strength, should be safe and eliminate lifting the car or adding weight to avoid lifting the car.
The "get a BFH" approach is not the answer IMO...
The shop manual has a very specific procedure for this task...and I wonder why that is...its something like this (not near my manuals):
Install the four leaf spring bolts and torque to spec 55-75lbs (do not leave loose)....
Raise the spring until flat with the jack
With the spring held up by a chain around the frame, lower the jack and align the torque control arm with the spring enough to drop the bolt through and position cushions
Install castle nut and cotter pin, raise the jack enough to remove the chain...then lower and remove jack...
Someone can confirm the steps hopefully.
No ratchet straps to pull things together, no "come alongs", etc...
Nothing about removing/installing strut rods, etc..
The interesting part is lowering the jack temporarily so the spring is "floating" on the chain while aligning the bolt holes....hmmmm...
If you can NOT do this something is dead wrong...T/A arms or spring installed incorrectly or out of position...
My $.02 worth..
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Nov 2, 2018 at 08:38 AM.
The "get a BFH" approach is not the answer IMO...
The shop manual has a very specific procedure for this task...and I wonder why that is...its something like this (not near my manuals):
Install the four leaf spring bolts and torque to spec 55-75lbs (do not leave loose)....
Raise the spring until flat with the jack
With the spring held up by a chain around the frame, lower the jack and align the torque control arm with the spring enough to drop the bolt through and position cushions
Install castle nut and cotter pin, raise the jack enough to remove the chain...then lower and remove jack...
Someone can confirm the steps hopefully.
No ratchet straps to pull things together, no "come alongs", etc...
Nothing about removing/installing strut rods, etc..
The interesting part is lowering the jack temporarily so the spring is "floating" on the chain while aligning the bolt holes....hmmmm...
If you can NOT do this something is dead wrong...T/A arms or spring installed incorrectly or out of position...
My $.02 worth..
Frankie:
What you quoted is correct from the service manual...........BUT I did not do that for a reason. Your first statement was to install and torque the four spring bolts, and just about everyone on our forum now knows that torqueing the bolts at this stage is incorrect and not the way to go. They can be installed and "finger tight", but that is it.
I did want to point the OP to using/referring to the shop manual for these type jobs, but also to provide him the way most of us do this job....with subtle changes and improvements. If OP searches, I have stated detailed instructions and DO's and DONT's many, many times in the past. I was hoping not to have to do it again. But maybe this is what is required. I just get tired repeating things every few months.
OP should give it another try, and hopefully will be successful. But if not, then he should ask for on-site help by someone who has done this job before. There are many folks in the NJ area to help. This I know.
Larry
EDIT: Need someone to give the OP the strut rod distance from center to center so he can set his adjustable rods like "63 340 HP" mentioned. I can do this later today (tonight) but have to leave in a few minutes to help my friend on his 69 restoration/rebuild. If no one responds, I will do this tonight when I get home. I could not find it using an internet search.
Last edited by Powershift; Nov 2, 2018 at 09:10 AM.
I don't pretend to have the experience that some here do; I've only delved into the C2 rear suspension once or twice (but plenty on other makes); so I'll defer on that. 99% of the time I just follow the service manual with success - that doesn't make it optimal.
I'm amazed that installing a leaf spring has become so convoluted an issue...
They make longer spring bolts, 8", which may give you the added inches you need, if you don't have them already. Not sure you'd want to remove the one you have in already.
That will lower the rear which may be unacceptable. It looks like they line up properly left to right, but your problem is that the spring eye is behind the trailing arm mount when the suspension is at full droop. As you raise the trailing arm to ride height, does the trailing arm mount then move into alignment? Does the problem then become that you can’t raise the spring eyes high enough to install the bolts before the car lifts off of the jack stands?
That will lower the rear which may be unacceptable. It looks like they line up properly left to right, but your problem is that the spring eye is behind the trailing arm mount when the suspension is at full droop. As you raise the trailing arm to ride height, does the trailing arm mount then move into alignment? Does the problem then become that you can’t raise the spring eyes high enough to install the bolts before the car lifts off of the jack stands?
The alignment when the spring is fully bent vs flat is why I brought up the shop procedure where they secure the spring flat with the jack, leave it suspended on a chain, install the bolt and nut and then jack the spring up to remove the chain...
What you quoted is correct from the service manual...........BUT I did not do that for a reason. Your first statement was to install and torque the four spring bolts, and just about everyone on our forum now knows that torqueing the bolts at this stage is incorrect and not the way to go. They can be installed and "finger tight", but that is it.
GM got tired of paying to replace differential castings with the spring mounting ears broken off from dealership mechanics following the '63-'67 Corvette Shop Manual instructions, and finally revised the procedure in the 1970 or 1971 Corvette Shop Manual.
What's the service manuals you guys are referring too? I have the 66 Corvette assembly manual. I have a 66 Chevrolet manual that covers all the cars including the Corvette. And I have a Chiltons manual that covers
63-82 Corvettes.
I did find a forum where a guy was having the same problem I'm having and he used a come along to get the spring and trailing arm bolted up. This spring has given me the most grief of putting the rear end of the
car back in. Thanks guys!
Install the four leaf spring bolts and torque to spec 55-75lbs (do not leave loose)....
My $.02 worth..
I'm not going to go near that much torque. I may do 40lbs with lock washers and 243 loctite. It felt like those ears wanted to snap. It just didn't feel right. I already priced a
diff cover in case I snapped an ear!
Great photo. Take a deep breath and get a good night's sleep before going further.
1. The strut rods are adjusted too short (no threads are showing). If you have an original strut rod, you need to lengthen the adjustable rods until they match a factory fixed rod with an extra ~1/2 inch length for initial camber. Leave the adjustable rod lock-nuts loose for now (the black center adjustment rod should be able to spin by hand).
Maybe someone has the factory rod length handy to help set the initial length?
2. Install the lengthened strut rods, with the outer bolts loose to make it easy for the trailing arm to move up and down. The trailing arm must be able to move up and down, because the axle drive shafts must be near level for the long spring end bolts to line up with the spring eyes. Jack and/or block up the trailing arm to achieve near level driveshafts.
3. Clamp and jack the spring end. The car chassis, the trailing arm, and the loaded spring should be stable (stable enough to walk away and take photos).
The trailing arm bolt should line up.
If the long bolt does not line up, photograph the misalignment (fore/aft or inboard/outboard).
There is a side view to show the spring and the bolt through the trailing arm being out of alignment. As for the strut rods I adjusted them to the original ones I have and still ran them out about another 1/2"
to get them to fit. Actually there's quite a bit of thread showing. I was worried there was too much. Thanks!
I only have the 63 Shop Manual (and 64 Supplement) and the GM 67 Chassis Manual, both state the same thing about torquing the spring bolts to spec before securing the spring ends..
What I do NOT have is JohnZ's historical perspective....few do...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Nov 3, 2018 at 06:08 AM.
Well I got the Trailing arm and spring attached. I used a come along. It was the only thing I was left to do. I connected it about 10 inches up the spring
and where the frame comes together in an H. I stuck it in the corner. No problems except for one. I couldn't get the bushing all the way in. Part of
it sticks out. I also used two jacks. One was at the very end on the tip of the end and the other resting against the hook on the come along. Not any
easy job by any means. I'm not crazy about messing with those springs. When I get the back end done I need to replace the front coils.
Thanks!!
I was tightening the spring back up and noticed that the next to last leaf was overhanging the bottom leaf by a good 1/2". I didn't like the looks of it. Should I get a new spring? Plus the strut rods don't line
up with the trailing arm bracket. Almost feels like I need to bend them to make them go. Is that normal for them. If I get a new spring should I go with steel or carbon or whatever they're made out of?
The strut rods do not move in a single plane. It looks like you have Global West strut rods or another brand with rod ends. They should line up fine, but the ends will be rotated slightly in their housings. When my ‘64 is in jack stands and the rear suspension hanging free, the bushings do not line up properly with the spring looking like it is too far behind the trailing arm. Once at ride height, it all lines up again. I would wait until it is all back together and sitting on the ground to make the call on misalignment.
The strut rods do not move in a single plane. It looks like you have Global West strut rods or another brand with rod ends. They should line up fine, but the ends will be rotated slightly in their housings. When my ‘64 is in jack stands and the rear suspension hanging free, the bushings do not line up properly with the spring looking like it is too far behind the trailing arm. Once at ride height, it all lines up again. I would wait until it is all back together and sitting on the ground to make the call on misalignment.
There is a side view to show the spring and the bolt through the trailing arm being out of alignment. As for the strut rods I adjusted them to the original ones I have and still ran them out about another 1/2"
to get them to fit. Actually there's quite a bit of thread showing. I was worried there was too much. Thanks!
Butch
S. Jersey
The long spring being out of alignment is a concern.
I read you have the spring forced into place, but I have a few questions:
Did you remove and reinstall the pumpkin, or frame cross member?
Is the pumpkin bolted to the frame cross member in the correct holes, and not too far back?
The long spring being out of alignment is a concern.
I read you have the spring forced into place, but I have a few questions:
Did you remove and reinstall the pumpkin, or frame cross member?
Is the pumpkin bolted to the frame cross member in the correct holes, and not too far back?
Yeah the diff was out along with the crossmember. I'm pretty sure I put them both back correctly. I bolted the crossmember to the diff and then jacked them up and aligned everything. The front bracket
also went straight on. The crossmember can only go on one way I figure with the breasts hanging down and the rubber bushings going over them. To look underneath everything looks fine except for
this leaf spring. Thanks!!
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