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63 vette, drums all around, power brakes, single master cylinder, just rebuilt rear brakes, took some time it’s been awhile, trying to bleed rear, push peddle open knipple nothing comes out. I do not think that there is a proportioning valve in 63 but nothing is coming out - HELP
Congrats on your first post to the forum. I’m sure your thread will be moved soon to the C2 sections, if not, you might want to post there. Best of luck!
No proportioning valve and I just did my 63 with all drums/power brakes; did you change the rubber hoses too ?
I don't know why but on my first brake bleed - oh, 4 years ago I had the same problem; I had to use this to get things going - haven't had to use it since though; the brake fluid was like mushroom soup back then and maybe that had something to do with it, a milky brown and laden with water:
From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
Originally Posted by Bob11
Thanks for the info. Will try the HF device you used. One side bleeds but the other one will not. Let you know how I make out. Thanks again
If 1 rear side bleeds and the other does not, your bleeder valve could be clogged with dirt. Both sides are fed with 1 line, so if 1 side gets fluid, the other should too. Unscrew and totally remove the bleeder and inspect it for clogging.
Bob, if you can disconnect the flex hose from the hard line end at the frame. The reason I say, if you can, is that if it is corroded you may not be able to remove it without damaging the hard line. There’s a good probability that your flex hose has collapsed internally. If they are old or look suspect you will want to replace them anyway. Have someone depress the brake pedal while you hold a suitable catch container under the open end to keep brake fluid from spraying everywhere.
Bob, if you can disconnect the flex hose from the hard line end at the frame. The reason I say, if you can, is that if it is corroded you may not be able to remove it without damaging the hard line. There’s a good probability that your flex hose has collapsed internally. If they are old or look suspect you will want to replace them anyway. Have someone depress the brake pedal while you hold a suitable catch container under the open end to keep brake fluid from spraying everywhere.
Collapsed hoses are so common you would think the manufacturers designed them to go bad. I found out, the hard way, that if you have one go bad, the others will soon fail too. I would replace all of them so you don't have to bleed the system again in a few months. Just my $.02.
Finally took off the hose, had to replace the short hard line piece, twisted if off, also. Brakes now bleed but peddle is very soft. Must still have air in the lines. The longest brake job in history! Still have to adjust the parking brake after final adjustments for the peddle. Thanks for all of the help getting close.
Had the same problem on my'60. The rubber hose at the rear axle collapsed internally. Looked perfect on the outside but was bad. A $10 NAPA hose fixed it.
Bob11,
You didn't mention whether the brakes had been apart before you began bleeding, but if the drums were off, here's another possible cause. Many folks run the self adjusting screws in to make it easier to slide the drums back on. If you don't manually readjust the stars to where the shoes touch the drums BEFORE you begin bleeding, there may be enough travel in the shoes to take all the fluid from the MC before the shoes firmly engage the drums. This gives the pedal a soft feel unless you pump it every time you need brakes ... If this solves your problem, remember to follow the Shop Manual procedure to finish the self adjusting process by backing and stopping several times. I also like to check the drums after the first short drive to be sure they are not overheating from having the shoes too tight.
Bob11,
You didn't mention whether the brakes had been apart before you began bleeding, but if the drums were off, here's another possible cause. Many folks run the self adjusting screws in to make it easier to slide the drums back on. If you don't manually readjust the stars to where the shoes touch the drums BEFORE you begin bleeding, there may be enough travel in the shoes to take all the fluid from the MC before the shoes firmly engage the drums. This gives the pedal a soft feel unless you pump it every time you need brakes ... If this solves your problem, remember to follow the Shop Manual procedure to finish the self adjusting process by backing and stopping several times. I also like to check the drums after the first short drive to be sure they are not overheating from having the shoes too tight.
X2. Had a heck of a time bleeding the brakes on the '63. For whatever reason I didn't have the adjusters out enough.
I'm a big fan of the speed bleeders, they make life very simple. Regular bleeders can be a bit tricky for people not used to them....some back them out too far and when they go to tighten them after pumping the brakes the bleeder can suck in air around the threads...
I use a cheapie HF bottle and tube to bleed the brakes with very little mess...and it only requires one person...and I always go around the wheels twice when bleeding.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jan 2, 2019 at 04:43 AM.
One add'l advantage of a 4-post lift is getting stuff that's always in the way - out of the way....a few years back a 61 sat on the lift until I sold it.
For brake work, its just as easy for me to jack the car up on the ground and work on a rolling stool....and I can just stand up to reach the master cylinder when bleeding the brakes...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jan 2, 2019 at 01:26 PM.
I use a floor jack to raise the rear of the car, remove the rear wheels, bleed the rear brakes, and then bleed the front brakes with the wheels on the car and on the ground.
That way you only have to jack the car up once and you only have to remove 2 wheels. That method plus the use of speed bleeders makes that job go very quickly.
Stop already - we all know your wife does all the maintenance, I've seen the pictures!
Seriously, I would do that too but in this case I was rebuilding the front brakes anyway so the tires were off....its also an excellent time to grease those top two Zerk fittings that are hard to see with the wheels on...
63 brake bleed problem
