What is your method of engine removal?

This web site www.corvettehacks.com/article6.html recommends pulling the engine with the bell housing attached, leaving the transmission in the car if it does not require service to eliminate the need to disconnect the shifter (less work). Using this method, is it a challenge during re-installation to line up the transmission input shaft without damage to the transmission or clutch plate?

Or do you remove the engine with attached transmission using the method outlined in chapter 6 of the Corvette Servicing Guide leaving the shifter attached and guiding shift lever through floor opening or do you remove the shifter prior to pulling the engine with attached bell housing and transmission?

I have a 4 post lift and will be renting an engine hoist. My transmission is sound but I will be replacing flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, TO bearing.
Thanks

 

Installing trans is ALWAYS easier out of the car.

Its ALWAYS easier to mate trans to the motor IF the clutch hasn't been fussed with. If you changed the clutch, you could be in for some frustration gettiing the input shaft lined up. A take out trans input shaft is ALWAYS better for lining up a new clutch compared to one of those generic plastic alignment tools. Its a 2-3 person job trying to mate trans to motor while trans is still in the car.

I would pull them as unit, you just have to be a bit more careful with the tail shaft and firewall. And cowl. Pull the dizzy first.

Install and adjust teh shifter outside of the car, then mark it/tape well during removal so the arms don't swivel around during reinstall, it will line up perfectly if you do this. I have installed a complete assembly with the shfter attached to the trans with removable handle Hurst shifter.
Doug

 

Yep. Much easier to align a 70 pound item with a 650 pound item than vise-versa!

 

Leaving the bellhousing on the engine when you pull and install it is a bad idea. Leaving the bellhousing on the transmission when you pull the engine or install it is the way I do it. Much easier to mate the engine/transmission back together.

I have no idea why anyone would want to pull the transmission in a C2 with the engine if they didn't want to service the transmission.

Mating the engine/transmission in the car is easy if your set up keeps the engine in a perpendicular and lateral plane with the transmission.

But, you have to do that anyway, whether you install the transmission to the engine in or out of the car. Holding your mouth right helps, whichever way you do it.

Opinions on this vary widely.

 

He says he has a C1. Yes, it is easier to have the bell attached to the trans if you are going to go that route.
Doug

 

Forgot to mention it is a 1961 (I have owned it 30 years) with a 1963 - 327 engine with a rod knock and some oil burning. About a C+ driver. I have a 1961 - 283 short block with correct casting number and date to install. I have worked on several engines in the past but have never removed and installed one. My neighbor has pulled several engines over the past years and will assist me but he has not worked on Corvettes. I am looking for tips to make the process as smooth as possible. Thanks for your suggestions

 

I just swapped the engine in my 63 over the summer. Of course I put new clutch and had the transmission rebuilt so it was a must that both come out. I put the rear end up on ramps but not the front in order to angle the engine trans in and out of the car slightly easier.

Everyone has their preference on this process.

 

Check Harbor Freight for a engine hoist....with coupons you can get one cheap....then probably resale it to someone....probably will come out even wrt to renting one...

 

I remember lots of posts over the years on this subject. There should be much information in the archives.

The hood needs to come off. Before you remove it, scribe where the hinges were and put blue painter's tape on the corners to protect the paint. It's a 2 person job to take the hood off, and the hood will hit the fenders. You will invent some new curse words when you chip your paint.

I'm surprised at the recommendation to leave the shifter on. I've always removed it. As stated in another post, when you re-install, it's no big deal to adjust the shifter and tape the rods so that they don't move out of adjustment.

Don't forget to put a plug in the back of the transmission. When you tilt it going in and out, fluid will gush out the back.

I forget if it's necessary to remove the distributor and fan. But you'll get more room to maneuver if you do. You will have to remove the radiator and fan shroud.

When you put the engine back in, the fuel pump is in the way. But installing the fuel pump after the engine is installed is difficult. I've installed the pump with the engine still on the hoist and before it sits down on the mounts. With the engine still on the hoist, I can raise or lower it to get better access to the fuel pump bolts.

If your front crossover brake line is old, the time to replace it is when the engine is out. Now's also the time to paint the engine compartment. Use Saran Wrap and tin foil to mask the wiring harnesses. Make sure you get a photo of you standing in the engine compartment. If you carefully clean the firewall, you may be lucky enough to see the 3 digit broadcast number scrawled in yellow grease pencil there. It's cool to find that.

 

You can only leave the shifter on IF it has a removable handle, like a Hurst. It will drag on the bottom of the tunnel,. If you have a lift, it probably is just as easy to put it on afterwards.
For fuel pump R&R, make sure the engine is at TDC #1 firing position so the pushrod is at its highest and the pump will then easily go on.

Doug

 

 

Thanks to all for the input. My 3756519, F 7 1 short block, that I purchased 30 years ago to replace my current 3782870 block, will be going to the machine shop next week. I will remove shifter and R&R engine and transmission as a single unit. Will post follow up.

 

I just had the engine out of my C1 and I don't understand how others do it with the bell attached. Even with just the flywheel on there wasn't enough room to get the engine forward enough with the engine mount pedestals (right side) in place. Also, if your radiator has the overflow tank on top, that makes it tight. I must have missed a trick or two.

 

Over several cars, I've taken them apart in various combinations depending upon which component needed fixing. i.e., engine, clutch or transmission. Regardless of what order they are removed, replacement always goes easier if done as one unit.

 

Yeah, you take out the radiator. I never had problem in or out with the trans attached,and i never removed the motor mount towers. And that was before load levelers, back when you just had an extra person push the tail shaft end of the trans down during remove or replace, and lift the tail shaft while clearing the nose piece
Doug

 

Thanks Doug. I was wondering if on removal or reinstall it would be better to leave the front motor saddle off until the engine is lowered into the chassis to keep from hitting 'stuff'. I am not looking forward to the install as I have a set of inside the frame 1 7/8" Stahl headers that 'allegedly' will clear the stock chassis, and I anticipate needing at least one extra set of hands.

 

Success! My neighbor and I pulled the engine yesterday as a unit with the shifter removed prior to lift. With the transmission cross member removed and some squirming the shifter was easily removed. Since the car is on a 4 post Bendpak lift, the only problem we had (with the lift as low as possible) was oil pan clearance over the radiator support frame. However by letting air out of front tires and a little brute strength, we were able to clear the frame (could have removed the radiator support) but it worked out OK. A couple of questions for you guys:
1. transmission works great but looks sort of oily all around (I believe transmission fluid not engine oil wet no obvious dripping of fluid), is it a DIY to replace seals and gaskets or do I need a specialty shop?
2. 283/single 4bbl. Clutch kit recommendations? Iron vs. aluminum flywheel?
3. Differential leaking at axle housing/diff gasket..
4. I have owned this car for 30 years and years ago replaced the entire exhaust system (excluding exhaust manifolds-only engine part correct) and cannot get the passenger's side pipe (between exhaust manifold and muffler) away from the frame just before it passes thru the X frame. I replaced the exhaust on my back so for years I just put up with the vibration. Last year I bought the car lift and thought that I would fix the exhaust. I have removed everything from the manifolds back, loosened all hangars etc. I have placed wedges on the right side obtaining minimal clearance but wind up getting an exhaust leak at the right manifold. New gaskets, high temp silicone sealant. Is this a common problem or is the exhaust pipe not correctly bent, any tricks that you guys use? Exhaust system was purchased thru Corvette Products of Michigan.
Probably additional questions to follow.
Thanks
Tom

 

A correctly trimmed (think belt sander) block of hardwood hammered between the exh pipe and the frame opening will stop the rattle.
Doug

 

Well I took the 3756519 short block that I purchased from a company in 1990 (that was supposedly properly machined and assembled) to a reputable automotive machine shop to have them disassemble and evaluate (since the motor has been stored so long-covered with light oil and wrapped) : Here were the problems that they found:
1. crankshaft journals scratched and scored from connecting rod bolts during reassembly, radius on multiple journals ground off
2. multiple different connecting rods (from different motors) with multiple notches for cylinder ID
3. scratched bearings
4. pitted cylinder walls, rough hone, still with partial ridge at top of cylinder with carbon deposits
5. block as never boiled and Magna flux
Apparently the company that I purchased this short block used an amateur (and a dose of fraud) to market their products and services.
So tomorrow my 1963 short block goes to the shop. Should be a straight forward build and less costly build.
Live and learn..

 

Is it common then that the passenger side exhaust pipe hits the frame? I would like to eliminate not only the rattle but the vibrations from the drive train to the passenger compartment.
Thanks