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Pat I see from your pictures that you are correct that the doors appear to be fitting the same or better than before disassembly. The weatherstripping may help a little. Good job and I think that you are almost there.
PTJSK :
I can relate to the saga of door fit on my 67 roadster. The most common Issue, stripping the paint to bare glass ... people tend to over sand. You might loose the height and roll the edges. My Advise is the following: First. Adjust the number of upper and lower hinge shims to match the long flat edge to fenders. Second: Mark and zip tie the shim stacks In case you have to remove the door again. Next, Adjust the Belt line to fenders with slotted bolt adjustment. I used a laser line level. These are the 2 base line's of the door fitment . Every other edge and radius that doesn't fit..... you'll have to fill or build up for. Remember: it's always better to fill the low's than over-sand the high's on the panel !
I think that looks real good for original panels. That vey slight jog at the front of the door in the character line can easily be adjusted with careful blocking after priming to match perfect.
I think that looks real good for original panels. That vey slight jog at the front of the door in the character line can easily be adjusted with careful blocking after priming to match perfect.
Yes Dan,
I'm going to block that downward just a bit on my next block.
I need to build up and out at the location where the peak of the door (just below the A pillar), meets the ridge line of the front fender. But they are coming around!
Alignment will likely change a lot when you install weatherstripping. At least that's been my experience. I would sacrifice a set of weatherstripping and glue them on instead of taping. They will likely roll over or move around if just taped. You're going through all this effort, so got the extra mile and pay the extra few bucks
If that bottom edge bothers you, you can add a little filler to the door and take a 1/32 off the fender to get it closer. But again, the rubber is going to push the door out. Don't forget that funky L shaped one on the top front of the door. That can really push out the door just below the windshield. Good luck.
Last edited by Ken Sungela; 12-01-2018 at 09:36 PM.
I need to build up and out at the location where the peak of the door (just below the A pillar), meets the ridge line of the front fender. But they are coming around!
Pat
Those things are not hard to fix Pat, get the style line and gaps as best as you can first then fill those other areas. It's hard to remove them again for paint after all your work. It's easy to understand why the factory mocked them up and painted them complete.
You could probably cut in the jams and reinstall the doors then paint them on the car if you do some tape work. However you do it I would try my best to paint everything the same time.
Well.....after about 12-15 hours, I think the drivers door is about ready. Damn.....I wish I knew what the hell I'm doing! Lol! But. I am getting there.
All I can say is, you may learn to hate yourself somewhere down the road for looks like excessively tight door margins. Looks good sitting still though.
All I can say is, you may learn to hate yourself somewhere down the road for looks like excessively tight door margins. Looks good sitting still though.
Originally Posted by MOXIE62
I would sand a little off the back edge of the door. It may be the pictures but it looks a little to tight.
Yea, I think you guy's are right. I need to open the gaps a bit more. I definitely don't want them too tight, especially after paint has been applied.
12-01-2018, 10:15 AM
