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Just got my '62 340hp survivor and I'm getting some input to just clean it up and keep it as is. This car dolled up is a knock out in my eyes. But I also know that holding the integrity of the original is important to a lot of people. I'd like to know how much is too much or not enough.
Big question I know, so I'll just throw this in for starters. I will be rebuilding the 327 with roller cam and hydraulic lifters, but I'm trying to keep the accessories stock. I will be swapping the Carter AFB to an Edelbrock 750cfm. I don't know if I'll be going to electronic ignition. I am interested in swapping the original generator for a Powermaster Alternator. They look very much alike.
The car as I got it has American Racing Mags, but I also got the original spinner hubcaps. I want to go with radial 15's front and back. Mags or hubcaps?
I've also got the original diz shield, but I'm missing the hardware. Is it imperative I try to get the original style.
Rest of the car I can stay with, with the exception of new interior and top which was included in purchase.
Bob
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
First, welcome to the best little C1 forum there is. Second, welcome to the 62 fraternity. Owned mine for over 40 years.
Bottom line is that it's YOUR car and you should do what you want to with it. From the mods you describe, originality isn't that important to you. Was the car sitting for a long time?
Looks like an old school hot rod with those mags on it. The caps are banged up if I see them correctly so I'd probably clean and polish those and keep the old school look. Let's see some more pics of it! Is there a soft top as well.
First thing to do is make it safe and drivable. Brakes, tires, suspension....stuff like that. Anyway, have fun with it and don't try to do everything all at once.
Last edited by Kerrmudgeon; Nov 29, 2018 at 04:10 PM.
First, welcome to the best little C1 forum there is. Second, welcome to the 62 fraternity. Owned mine for over 40 years.
Bottom line is that it's YOUR car and you should do what you want to with it. From the mods you describe, originality isn't that important to you. Was the car sitting for a long time?
Looks like an old school hot rod with those mags on it. The caps are banged up if I see them correctly so I'd probably clean and polish those and keep the old school look. Let's see some more pics of it! Is there a soft top as well.
First thing to do is make it safe and drivable. Brakes, tires, suspension....stuff like that. Anyway, have fun with it and don't try to do everything all at once.
Thanks Kerr. Your avatar doesn't look like it is anyone who has owned anything for 40 years. That aside, the 'vette has been stored since 1978. It has 78,000 original miles on it. I have the original soft top, plus a new one still in the box. I was told the hubcaps were in excellent shape so I imagine the pic doesn't do them justice...I'll find out.
Yeah, I like the look of the mags with 15X7's in front and 15X8's in the back.
The engine is currently being mag'd and analyzed for condition.
The body is in a fab shop where the whole underside will be checked including steering, suspension, and brakes. All rubber will be replaced and original radiator will be rebuilt. Tranny and rear end will be flushed and refilled without taking them apart. I have not decided on exhaust but leaning towards custom 2.5" piping to Dynomax 14" Super Turbos. Keeping original 2.5" Rams Horns.
Bob
Last edited by 6T2Vette; Nov 29, 2018 at 06:07 PM.
The choice of wheels is your own. I like both....in fact, my '61 has the stock wheel covers, but I'm thinking of fitting a set of period American Racing mags like yours with radial tires for longer drives. An electronic ignition is favored by many due to no maintenance needed, but is inferior to points and condenser reliability-wise. I'd leave it alone. An Edelbrock carb is inferior to the stock AFB carb. If you want to upgrade for power, try a Holley. Or, simply rebuild your AFB. They are great carbs. Take your time and have fun.
The car, as is, looks fine. I personally like to retain a more or less original appearance with hidden upgrades-----------such as more power built into the engine, Muncie instead of the T-10, and wider wheels (painted, not custom alloy), but with stock wheel covers.
My 56 has later GM steel wheels, but without the 4 nubs necessary to retain full wheel covers. So I went with 56 dog dish caps on 15x6 front and 15x7 rear wheels. This gives it a sorta kinda Heavy Duty brake and susp look that was first available in 57 up through 62.
FINAL BOTTOM LINE---------------------it's your car, do it your way!!!
As you are new here, let me tell the story of a recent new owner who bought a car that had been stored for years. He took it for a little drive to see how it felt and one of the 20+ year old tires delaminated and tore up some fiberglass. He didn't know there are date codes on tires and ages past which they get unreliable. You can't know what you don't know and there is lots about these old cars that is different from buying a contemporary used car. Unless you are well experienced with old cars, I encourage you to trailer it to someone who can go over it with you and point out any potential safety hazards (e.g,, leaky fuel lines, cracked wiring, etc.). Then, if they know 62 Corvettes, they can also point out any non-stock components you may have missed.
I am not a NCRS kind of guy. IMHO none of them are completely original as worn parts have been replaced over the years. The only question about using non-original parts is where do you want to draw the line. If it were mine I'd store any original parts I wanted to replace and equip it the way I like. As long as it can be put back by the next owner, no harm done. But its not mine, so do it any way you like.
Here is my .02$ worth. I'm sure you are going over all the critical sustems for worn parts, especially the brakes and electrical. Keep the mags and same size NEW tires...period good looks. Good idea on the ignition and you don't need a 750 carb. 625-650cfm is adaquite for a 327 if you replace the orig carb. Keep any and all orig parts. Enjoy the fun, take pics and drive it. Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; Nov 29, 2018 at 05:23 PM.
One other responder suggested keeping the original Carter AFB and I agree with that suggestion. For one thing, you don't need a 750cfm carburetor for a street driven 327. As a point in fact, my bride's track car, with a well prepared 377 engine, had a 650 cfm carburetor and it flat out hauled the mail. Another point is that the original AFB is a good carburetor in its own right and has no particular vices. Get the AFB rebuilt and use it. My $0.02....
The car, as is, looks fine. I personally like to retain a more or less original appearance with hidden upgrades-----------such as more power built into the engine, Muncie instead of the T-10, and wider wheels (painted, not custom alloy), but with stock wheel covers.
My 56 has later GM steel wheels, but without the 4 nubs necessary to retain full wheel covers. So I went with 56 dog dish caps on 15x6 front and 15x7 rear wheels. This gives it a sorta kinda Heavy Duty brake and susp look that was first available in 57 up through 62.
FINAL BOTTOM LINE---------------------it's your car, do it your way!!!
Tommy: What RPO number is that trailer your dragging? I can't find it in the Black Book....
Last edited by Dan Hampton; Nov 29, 2018 at 05:50 PM.
One other responder suggested keeping the original Carter AFB and I agree with that suggestion. For one thing, you don't need a 750cfm carburetor for a street driven 327. As a point in fact, my bride's track car, with a well prepared 377 engine, had a 650 cfm carburetor and it flat out hauled the mail. Another point is that the original AFB is a good carburetor in its own right and has no particular vices. Get the AFB rebuilt and use it. My $0.02....
As you are new here, let me tell the story of a recent new owner who bought a car that had been stored for years. He took it for a little drive to see how it felt and one of the 20+ year old tires delaminated and tore up some fiberglass. He didn't know there are date codes on tires and ages past which they get unreliable. You can't know what you don't know and there is lots about these old cars that is different from buying a contemporary used car. Unless you are well experienced with old cars, I encourage you to trailer it to someone who can go over it with you and point out any potential safety hazards (e.g,, leaky fuel lines, cracked wiring, etc.). Then, if they know 62 Corvettes, they can also point out any non-stock components you may have missed.
I am not a NCRS kind of guy. IMHO none of them are completely original as worn parts have been replaced over the years. The only question about using non-original parts is where do you want to draw the line. If it were mine I'd store any original parts I wanted to replace and equip it the way I like. As long as it can be put back by the next owner, no harm done. But its not mine, so do it any way you like.
Thanks Tom. I am just now finishing up the restoration of two classics, a '55 Nomad, and a '49 Olds 98 convertible. I'm not going to post pics as someone has taken offense to some pics I posted in one of my earlier threads. So yes, I am very aware of the foibles in tires past their wear/expiration dates.
As I stated, the engine is being rebuilt in one location while another shop is going through a thorough chassis and drive train inspection...including brakes and master cylinder.
I did buy two copies of the books supplied by NCRS on C1's. One copy is for me and the other is for my fab guy who will be replacing old and worn out parts with those compatible with original or acceptable restoration parts.
Bob
Here is my .02$ worth. I'm sure you are going over all the critical sustems for worn parts, especially the brakes and electrical. Keep the mags and same size NEW tires...period good looks. Good idea on the ignition and you don't need a 750 carb. 625-650cfm is adaquite for a 327 if you replace the orig carb. Keep any and all orig parts. Enjoy the fun, take pics and drive it. Dennis
I am sure the 650cfm carb is fine with the original 340 horse motor. I am planning on dropping the compression to 10;1-10.5 and hardened valve seats, Comp roller cam with Hydraulic lifters and compatible with Duntov specs. I plan to use the original 2.5" R/H headers but replace the 2.25" exhaust with 2.5". For this reason I thought the 750CFM carb would be better. Holly is a possibility but Edelbrock first choice.
I'm learning here. I could be talked out of it
Bob
One other responder suggested keeping the original Carter AFB and I agree with that suggestion. For one thing, you don't need a 750cfm carburetor for a street driven 327. As a point in fact, my bride's track car, with a well prepared 377 engine, had a 650 cfm carburetor and it flat out hauled the mail. Another point is that the original AFB is a good carburetor in its own right and has no particular vices. Get the AFB rebuilt and use it. My $0.02....
I am sure the 650cfm carb is fine with the original 340 horse motor. I am planning on dropping the compression to 10;1-10.5 and hardened valve seats,
I'm learning here. I could be talked out of it
Bob
Can you be talked out of the hardened valve seats? They aren't needed and the machining to install them could invade the water jackets. If that happens, you end up with period-correct door stops.
Can you be talked out of the hardened valve seats? They aren't needed and the machining to install them could invade the water jackets. If that happens, you end up with period-correct door stops.
Jim
Nah Jim. With today's gas it's almost mandatory. I've already had them done on the 265 and 327 of my '56 Chevies with no problems. I did have one set with a repaired valve seat I didn't want to use. I gave the repaired one away and kept the good one. It's a door stop right now.
I hope you didn't jinx me. :-)
Bob
Thanks Tom. I am just now finishing up the restoration of two classics, a '55 Nomad, and a '49 Olds 98 convertible. I'm not going to post pics as someone has taken offense to some pics I posted in one of my earlier threads. So yes, I am very aware of the foibles in tires past their wear/expiration dates.
As I stated, the engine is being rebuilt in one location while another shop is going through a thorough chassis and drive train inspection...including brakes and master cylinder.
I did buy two copies of the books supplied by NCRS on C1's. One copy is for me and the other is for my fab guy who will be replacing old and worn out parts with those compatible with original or acceptable restoration parts.
Bob
Heck with that! Both the Nomad and the Olds are great cars! Kind of crazy how many of us have a Nomad along with a Corvette!
And there's never a better view to keep one coming back as much as Robbies (Kerrmudgeon), avatar pics!
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Original Or Somewhat?
