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[C2] Al Knoch sound deadener not right

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Old 02-02-2019, 09:19 PM
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Dave Tracy
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Default Al Knoch sound deadener not right

Just wanted to give an update on my '64 sound deadener project. Initially, I inquired here on the Forum about the jute vs. rubber side being down. The consensus was jute side down and I confirmed that after contacting Al Knoch and was told that their instructions were incorrect. I took the deadener and laid it out in the car. There was a huge gap in the center segment with respect to the wheel wells. I forwarded these photos to their tech dept and was assured that the material was properly cut and the side pieces would fill in the curve. These are my trial fit photos.











Taking them on their word, I proceeded to install the deadener. This was the not so surprising result:





It was obvious that the fit was a severe issue. With the large gaps, when the carpet would be glued down, it would have a wavy contour or worse, wouldn't stay glued down. I went to an upholstery place and bought some more jute but unlike the Al Knoch material with a rubber backing, it had a foil backing. I then custom cut the material and glued in the pieces. This is the repaired photo.



I may fill in a few more places. Hopefully the carpet will be a better fit. Knowing what I know from this experience, I would have bought the bulk material and used the carpet pieces as a pattern to cut out the deadener
Old 02-02-2019, 10:49 PM
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Boyan
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Default Not right

not surprising. One side of my carpet was sewn crooked. They refused to send me a new one. They installed my seat foam and covers. Spring poked through after 300 miles. They refused to do anything about it again. Good luck, but dont hold your breath.
Old 02-02-2019, 11:52 PM
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I was going to ask you in your other thread why you even went with that stuff but you did not ask. There are so many other modern material that will give you better sound and heat protection.
Old 02-03-2019, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MOXIE62
I was going to ask you in your other thread why you even went with that stuff but you did not ask. There are so many other modern material that will give you better sound and heat protection.

Can you provide some examples?
Old 02-03-2019, 12:52 AM
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Dave Tracy
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Originally Posted by MOXIE62
I was going to ask you in your other thread why you even went with that stuff but you did not ask. There are so many other modern material that will give you better sound and heat protection.
I had asked sometime earlier on the Forum for other's experiences and many were discussed. I ultimately decided on what was originally on the car. I would not make the same decision now, however, Al Knoch's deadener is not like what was original.

Last edited by Dave Tracy; 02-03-2019 at 04:50 PM.
Old 02-03-2019, 06:45 AM
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mike coletta
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Dave,If you look at any ORIGINAL carpet, you'll see that the backing material (jute) is cut "short", and is not an exact match to the carpeting. This stuff is not made to be a "wall to wall" fit, and is cut to match the original jute material. If you want "restomod" insulation, cut your own. Also, these materials are better described as "dampening", so every gap doesn't need to be filled to get the benefit of the material. I get what you're saying about the smoothness of the finished carpet, but if you don't put adhesive down in the holes, the carpet will lay nicely around the edges. The next time that you are around a car that has the original jute backing, lift the edge of any part of the carpet, and you'll see that the jute is about 1-1 1/2" from all of the edges.

Last edited by mike coletta; 02-03-2019 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 02-03-2019, 07:19 AM
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Panama 58
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Originally Posted by mike coletta
Dave,If you look at any ORIGINAL carpet, you'll see that the backing material (jute) is cut "short", and is not an exact match to the carpeting. This stuff is not made to be a "wall to wall" fit, and is cut to match the original jute material. If you want "restomod" insulation, cut your own. Also, these materials are better described as "dampening", so every gap doesn't need to be filled to get the benefit of the material. I get what you're saying about the smoothness of the finished carpet, but if you don't put adhesive down in the holes, the carpet will lay nicely around the edges. The next time that you are around a car that has the original jute backing, lift the edge of any part of the carpet, and you'll see that the jute is about 1-1 1/2" from all of the edges.
Dave, as Mike has described and you have found, my original floor dampening material looks very similar in fit to what you have. I can't speak to the rubber like material on top because mine is old and has hardened a bit, but as far the fit, it looks original. If I have a chance today I will take a pic for you and post it if for any reason, to alleviate some of your frustration.
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Old 02-03-2019, 08:53 AM
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I just started pulling the carpet out of my ‘64 coupe. It is not the original carpet, but the dampening material under it appears original and to Mike’s point does not cover the entire floor. There are gaps of one to two inches, so it appears your AK material may match the original.
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Old 02-03-2019, 10:04 AM
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From your replies, Al Knock is no longer on my "list". Thank you for the input. The carpeting should now have well secured edges.
Old 02-03-2019, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Tracy
From your replies, Al Knock is no longer on my "list". Thank you for the input. The carpeting should now have well secured edges.
Dave, even though you have reached a level of comfort on your questions from this forum, I promised to send you a pic. At the risk of this photo causing more confusion, let me explain. I have not glued the rear floor section down at this point for a variety of reasons, and when I pulled it up I realized that this won't show you "in great detail" your concerns. What I can say is that if you consider that all pieces of the carpet, which you see in my photo, have to roll into a non-insulated spot in order for the top pieces to blend, you begin to realize that the small gaps around the perimeter have a purpose. Looking down the wheel well bottom you see where the carpet has to roll down into that space in order for it to blend and cover potential gaps once the floor piece is in place. Not having laid the carpet yet, you may want to re-evaluate the impact on how the carpet will lay and blend with the sides and back taking into account the now filled gaps with your additional underlayment. Not saying it won't work, but I think you will now end up with the binding edges sticking up because of the carpet that you need to roll underneath.

One last comment. This carpet install was not done by me and certainly doesn't represent an "as factor install". Some time in the future I plan to see if I can reconstruct what's there before deciding to buy new, but please do not look at this photo as "the absolute way it should be done, because it is not" Thanks.
Good luck.


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Old 02-03-2019, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jsans
Can you provide some examples?
I can give you a place to find some. Aircraft Spruce. They can be found on the net and have a good selection.

Dom
Old 02-03-2019, 04:48 PM
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Panama 58

"What I can say is that if you consider that all pieces of the carpet, which you see in my photo, have to roll into a non-insulated spot in order for the top pieces to blend, you begin to realize that the small gaps around the perimeter have a purpose. Looking down the wheel well bottom you see where the carpet has to roll down into that space in order for it to blend and cover potential gaps once the floor piece is in place. Not having laid the carpet yet, you may want to re-evaluate the impact on how the carpet will lay and blend with the sides and back taking into account the now filled gaps with your additional underlayment."

Your point makes absolute sense especially due to the fact the material was not cut to the corners. I will, of course, trial fit the carpeting but may be taking out some material along the wheel wells.

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