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[C2] hydralic clutch

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Old 02-05-2019, 11:16 PM
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teddycarnut
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Want to convert clutch to hydralic. Anyone know where i can find best price
Old 02-06-2019, 11:28 AM
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rick piras
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If cost is your primary focus you'd be money ahead to stay with mechanical. A decent hydraulic throw out bearing alone is over $200. If converting you'll either NEED to stiffen your firewall to handle the pressure that will get placed on it, you can find used master cylinder setups in wrecking yards but plan to spend a fair amount of time reinforcing the firewall. Or you'll have to go with a frame mounted master cylinder similar to the Bowler Transmissions style. That works well, but the kit (including the master and slave cylinders) is $875.
Good luck,
Rick
Old 02-07-2019, 03:44 PM
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JohnZ
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Originally Posted by teddycarnut
Want to convert clutch to hydralic. Anyone know where i can find best price
No such animal. Complete waste of time and money. Leave the mechanical system in place and move on. There's no magic way a hydraulic clutch reduces pedal effort - the pressure plate force reaction point just moves from the pedal to the firewall, which isn't designed to accept it.
Old 02-07-2019, 06:37 PM
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DUB
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Originally Posted by teddycarnut
Want to convert clutch to hydralic. Anyone know where i can find best price

Seeing how some feel you want to do this to reduce pedal pressure...which I did not read in the above quote.

But I can say.... due to I have done it. Pedal pressure can be greatly reduced due to NOT using the hole in the clutch pedal that the factory system was hooked to. Another hole was drilled in it much higher to reduce pedal effort and still allow the 1 inch of piston movement in the clutch master cylinder.

I can say it can be done and pretty much was summed up in POST #2. It is not an easy job due to the modifications you need to do to make it work.

I am still a fan of the factory mechanical set ups due to the instant response when you press the pedal. On the car I did that I mentioned above....it worked perfectly with much less pedal effort BUT...either it was due to the 'lag' that the hydraulic throw out bearing had in it or it was the Kevlar disc the guy chose ...but the clutch went out in a few years and he had me put it to a mechanical set-up due to it was done all for his wife (so she could drive it) that was no longer in the picture.

You can use a hydraulic piston actuator that mounts down on the side of the bellhousing area that attached to the clutch fork and not have hydraulic throw-out bearing

Something similar to this.
https://goo.gl/images/iDsU9M

DUB

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