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The blower motor on my non AC 63 has never worked since I got it 5 years ago. I would like to check it out to see if the motor is bad or good and wire it up right if it is good. The orange wire in the photo is not being used and the other 2 black wires are hooked up to the motor ( not visible in the photo). i assume the 2 are black are grounds and as I read in a post that the wiper motor is grounded to this connection. The wipers work fine.so I assume the motor is grounded also. Does the orange wire go on the terminal round thingy with looks like a rubber cap on it? the orange wire looks like a one half of a fused connector but there is no other wires to go from that wire to the motor. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated..thanks
There should be a spade terminal sticking out of a black plastic insulator from the metal motor housing to connect the orange wire. You can test the motor by jumpering from a 12v point to that terminal. It would be safter to do that test through a jumper with an in line fuse in case your motor is internally short circuited. You can also sort of test the motor feed circuit with a test light and/or voltmeter to the orange wire. That wire should be fully hot with the fan control on HI.
I believe the orange wire has a male connector that will plug into the motor plug that's pictured. There should be a brass spade that bolts with one of the blower motor mounting bolts and the black ground plugs into that.
The 63 heater blower plug is different than 64-up, get a test light and test the orange with and use the black as the ground. That will tell you if power is present plus if the ground circuit is good. This ground wire travels down to the starter and is attached to the short starter mounting bolt for ground.
From: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
St. Jude Donor '12
If your motor is good and it winds up that the blower control is bad, don't bother buying any of the aftermarket blower cable assemblies. They have to be wired so that they get power from another source, not just plugging in the factory lead. I went through that. I was able to find a good used one. The 63 is different (of course) from later ones.
I believe the orange wire has a male connector that will plug into the motor plug that's pictured. There should be a brass spade that bolts with one of the blower motor mounting bolts and the black ground plugs into that.
The 63 heater blower plug is different than 64-up, get a test light and test the orange with and use the black as the ground. That will tell you if power is present plus if the ground circuit is good. This ground wire travels down to the starter and is attached to the short starter mounting bolt for ground.
I agree with Tim. Been awhile since I fooled with mine, but IIRC, that orange wire with the round boot on it plugs/slides over the connector you have pictured.
There is also an "L" shaped brass/copper lug attached to one of the blower motor screws. The ground wire (black) slides over that lug.
They sure with wild with the under coating back then. Mine was the same way. Good thing is. if you remove coating you will have a brand new looking motor. Problem is, when something is not hooked up, chances are motor will not work. Easy enough to remove with the battery out.
Yeah I thought maybe someone did that with a rattle can type coating. Good to know that its from factory like that. I am going to check the condition of the motor and power from heater switch to the orange wire. if all checks out the big problem will be trying to find a 63 harness from the orange power wire to the motor connection. I really don't use the heater much since I store it pretty much for the winter but...........I quess I'm not normal but I can't stand for something to not work. Thanks
UPDATE....did all the circuit tests that my fellow forum members suggested and the verdict is in..sort of. The motor tested good, started right up and ran smooth when ran straight from battery. With ignition on and fan on I tested voltage to the orange wire hook-up ....got 11.5 volts. I figure motor good, power from switch good so I put orange hook up on motor and everything works as it should.. Both speeds work with the switch...all seems good. So now I am a big worry wort. Why would PO have the blower unhooked??? Think it was the capacitor pigtail was causing his problem and just left it off......not realizing (like I did) that it will still run without that capacitor pigtail???? Anyway..many thanks to all for your help.
Thanks for the follow up, glad you got it working. Don't throw away any unused parts, keep them with the car. I would install the capacitor and see if it runs normal.
Thats the strange thing about it... it never has had the capacitor or harness on the orange power wire since I purchased it 5 years ago. I would never pitch any part from a 63 ..too many one year only stufff....thanks tbarb
Thats the strange thing about it... it never has had the capacitor or harness on the orange power wire since I purchased it 5 years ago. I would never pitch any part from a 63 ..too many one year only stufff....thanks tbarb
Those capacitors have always worried me, the way they are connected to a hot wire and body to ground. What happens when one goes bad. I guess they are fail safe. I disconnected all mine to see if it had any effect on radio playing. It didn't. They look neat though.
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63 blower motor help
