[C2] Clutch fork rod question
#1
Le Mans Master
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Clutch fork rod question
I assembled the clutch linkage on my modified 1964 coupe yesterday and as I was adjusting the clutch I noticed significant slop in the linkage. The slop seems to be at the fork where the rod connects. If I adjust the clutch to ensure there is sufficient clearance for the TO bearing, when I depress the pedal it moves a couple of inches before the fork moves. Is that pivot point a common wear point? The fork is new, but the rod is original and is loose on the attachment pin.
#2
are any of the holes elongated from wear?
#4
I had a large amount of slop at the pedal/pushrod connection where the leverage ratio lets the pedal move a lot before the slop is taken up. Both pieces had wear. You might also want to check for wear in that area if you haven't already done so.
#5
Le Mans Master
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All good thoughts. The pin came with the fork and is tight. I thought the hole in the rod looked okay, but I looked again and it is much larger than the pin. I’ll get another one and see how it looks.
#6
Race Director
The two lower anti rattle springs and the upper firewall spring sort of work against each other on taking slop out of all the rods, fork and z-bar connections. I had a lot of slop in the slower rod **** and the lower z-bar lever that the two anti-rattle springs should automatically take up. But the two little springs are countered by the upper spring and depending on which is stronger - pushing the pedal down may have to take up the play before the fork starts to move. I made a little split bushing out of a strip of metal to go around the rod tip and slide into the hole of the z-bar and held in place by a thin shim washer and the G-clip to delete the play just in case.
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Diablo427 (05-05-2019)
#7
Advanced
I ordered a kit from zip M3976 it uses rod ends on the ends of the clutch rods. I have not received it yet but it looks like a good solution for a smooth clutch,
#8
Le Mans Master
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The two lower anti rattle springs and the upper firewall spring sort of work against each other on taking slop out of all the rods, fork and z-bar connections. I had a lot of slop in the slower rod **** and the lower z-bar lever that the two anti-rattle springs should automatically take up. But the two little springs are countered by the upper spring and depending on which is stronger - pushing the pedal down may have to take up the play before the fork starts to move. I made a little split bushing out of a strip of metal to go around the rod tip and slide into the hole of the z-bar and held in place by a thin shim washer and the G-clip to delete the play just in case.
#9
Race Director
Yes - my rods are relatively new and I didn't want to mess with removing the Z-bar and welding up the hole but it didn't look elongated so I took the expedient way out.
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Diablo427 (05-05-2019)