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I soaked with peetrating lubricant for LONG period of time (over night) then lightly taed on plugs and soaked with more penetrating lub. removed ()block holds a lot on coolant)
I just did this a year ago. There was no way I could remove plugs without removing shields. And if the plugs have never been removed, you are in for a job. And penetrating fluid has never worked for me unless you can wiggle the plug.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Total buggers to get to, but as stated, a lot of coolant, and potentially a not inconsiderable amount of spalled iron crud gets left in the cooling system.
Also total buggers to get out. If you get to them, use all your best patience to get them out. Do not use an adjustable wrench, they'll just round off. When I had my engine block done, I had the threads chased and the plugs replaced with allen wrench plugs (and yes, I'll suffer any originality deduction ).
Could remove the water pump, but that’s too drastic. I always get them out on the engine stand, but I’m sure not pulling an engine for this. Didn’t see an easy in car solution. FYI, easiest removal on the engine stand is solvent of your choice and gentle back and forwards, 4 point socket on an impact wrench. Just don’t get in a hurry. Hasn’t failed me yet.
It really isn't all that bad moving the shields. The shield above the coolant plug just needs to be pushed up to give you access to the plug, yellow arrow. Note I put a plastic bag over the starter to keep fluid out of it when the plug was removed.
Here's a view from the side. The bag only needs to go over the nose of the starter. Blue tape sealed the bag to the starter. Good luck with it.
2 Years ago.......I actually flushed, and reflushed 4 or 5 times........Used radiator cleaner and flushed again........Engine temps have been great since!! I'm not pulling those plugs until i have to!!!
I had to replace the drivers side plug on my small block a few months ago. It was leaking. Before I got the car, someone put some type of sealant in the recess area. The removal of the V shielding was the easy part. The plug was rotted and the allen wrench slipped off as the insert was stripped. I ended up drilling out the center of the allen insert and tapping the hole with a 1/4" pipe thread tap. I finished up by installing a 1/4" brass pipe plug. The V shield covers the plug. I hope your task goes better than mine did. Jerry
I had to replace the drivers side plug on my small block a few months ago. It was leaking. Before I got the car, someone put some type of sealant in the recess area. The removal of the V shielding was the easy part. The plug was rotted and the allen wrench slipped off as the insert was stripped. I ended up drilling out the center of the allen insert and tapping the hole with a 1/4" pipe thread tap. I finished up by installing a 1/4" brass pipe plug. The V shield covers the plug. I hope your task goes better than mine did. Jerry
There was a thread similar to this one where the drill bit grabbed on to the metal and drilled hole through the cylinder wall. Had to sleeve cylinder to repair.
instead of busting your knuckles and spending a lot of time on this project, locate a shop that has a coolant extraction/evacuation pump that operates off negative pressure that will purge all the coolant in your system. Takes all of about fifteen minutes, with set up taking about three minutes. The other twelve minutes is waiting and watching.
There was a thread similar to this one where the drill bit grabbed on to the metal and drilled hole through the cylinder wall. Had to sleeve cylinder to repair.
Anybody that heavy-handed has no business working on cars. Should probably be wearing a helmet and a beacon at all times.