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1961 C1
In the process of removing/disconnecting everything in preparation of removing the engine for an overhaul and HP increase. Tidy up the engine bay while engine out etc. Doing this myself at home in the shed. Have a 2 post lift to assist.
QUESTION: Do I pull the engine (base 1 x 4bl carb) out WITH or WITHOUT the 4speed trans.
Advise appreciated.
I'd pull and re-install the engine and transmission as one lump. And engine leveler is a really big help and, if you don't have one, I recommend you rent/buy/borrow one for the project.
I'd pull and re-install the engine and transmission as one lump. And engine leveler is a really big help and, if you don't have one, I recommend you rent/buy/borrow one for the project.
Not sure how you intend to use the two post lift, but an engine hoist with a leveler is the easiest. You need to be able to move the car and the engine puller to make this as easy as possible. It is easier to pull engine without the tranny, shorter and lighter, however it is much easier to install as a unit because trying to get the motor and tranny lined up with tranny in car is not as easy task! You will also want to take the fuel pump off. I also pull the distributor, the more you get out of the way the better.
Yes on moving the car in and out from under the motor/trans assembly.
You don't want to get the engine swinging by trying to move the lift and engine. You can do it that way, but its best to have couple guys helping, besides you if that is the plan.
Doug
In my opinion, it depends on if you will be replacing the clutch. If you are, pull both together. If not, just the engine. That said, unless the clutch is new I would replace it while you have the opportunity. The biggest cost of clutch replacement is labor, not parts.
I recently pulled the engine and trans as one from my '61. Very easy. I used a leveling bar for the hoist and had to remove the bumperettes to get the hoist in over the engine far enough. What worked best for me was leaving the wheels on the car and placing the front wheels on two old rims without tires on them. This gave enough room under the car for the trans to 'tip' downward and the engine came right out. I also bolted a chain across the frame rails under the trans to support it after I had removed the trans mount and crossmember. With the front-mount of the early cars, you can't let the engine just hang on the front mount. Took more time pulling all the accessories than it did to yank the engine and trans. The engine and trans are going back in the car as a unit, as well. I'm even going to try it with the shifter in place, as it is a real bear to install the shifteer with the trans and engine all bolted up. (Hurst shifter).
I recently pulled the engine and trans as one from my '61. Very easy. I used a leveling bar for the hoist and had to remove the bumperettes to get the hoist in over the engine far enough. What worked best for me was leaving the wheels on the car and placing the front wheels on two old rims without tires on them. This gave enough room under the car for the trans to 'tip' downward and the engine came right out. I also bolted a chain across the frame rails under the trans to support it after I had removed the trans mount and crossmember. With the front-mount of the early cars, you can't let the engine just hang on the front mount. Took more time pulling all the accessories than it did to yank the engine and trans. The engine and trans are going back in the car as a unit, as well. I'm even going to try it with the shifter in place, as it is a real bear to install the shifteer with the trans and engine all bolted up. (Hurst shifter).
Thanks for all replies and advise. Misinformation re the 2 post lift. Not using it to remove engine. Just to assist with exhaust etc.removal from underneath. Sounds like engine and trans as a unit is the way to go. Yes l do have access to borrowing a lift leveler as shown here in previous post and can also borrow an engine lifting crane/jib
Well, put the shifter in 4th gear when installing.
I would imagine you can make it go since you have a shorter Muncie.
I was able to get the shifter (without handle) attached to trans on my DNE 4+1 in as a unit and that trans is couple inches longer, plus it has that long, deep main case. My issue was I had to get the shifter to clear the top of the tunnel, before the trans tailshaft had to be raised to go over the center of the X member.
I am sure you can make it work with the car jacked up, and a couple helpers.
PS: I drilled hole in the side of the tunnel a long time ago for using a shifter gate alignment rod.
Yes. Easily. My issue going back in is going to be the Hurst Shifter....it's a vintage unit and the handle does not unbolt.
I’ve also got the Muncie / Hurst shifter set up, but haven’t looked to see if the handle unbolts from the shift mechanism. Away with work at the moment. Check it out Friday when l get home. One way or another the engine/ trans will be out on Friday.👍
Dennis
1961 Engine removal
