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This style works well and is reasonably priced on the internet. Connect to each corner of the engine.
Absolutely, an "engine tilter" of this general style is very helpful when pulling the engine with the transmission attached. Summit Racing carries these.
You will find that to get the transmission tail shaft to clear the firewall, the engine/trans assembly needs to be pointed upward at a rather steep angle. Then, after clearing the firewall, the engine/trans assembly needs to be made somewhat level to get the transmission tail shaft to clear the radiator crossmember or fender. Some additional hints are:
1) The engine hoist must be on wheels so that it is easy to move the engine/trans assembly forward as it is lifted.
2) Drain the transmission first and then plug the tailshaft opening with a spare yoke or an inexpensive plastic plug that is made for the purpose. Make sure this plug arrangement is secured to the transmission so that it can't fall out. With the engine pointed toward the ceiling and the tailshaft pointed down, the transmission oil will want to leak out the back of the tailshaft.
3) Put the front of the car up reasonably high on jack stands prior to removing the engine/trans assembly. You will likely need the extra height during the phase where you are trying to get the tailshaft to clear the firewall.
This little device that bolts to the intake allows the angle of the engine to be adjusted with a socket on an air ratchet and with the other hand I operate the electric hoist. It's "almost" too easy.
This little device that bolts to the intake allows the angle of the engine to be adjusted with a socket on an air ratchet and with the other hand I operate the electric hoist. It's "almost" too easy.
I have something similar and will never pull/install another engine without it. Chuckle (brag) to the Mrs when we watch a car-themed program and they have four or five guys trying to drop in an engine...I've done MANY by myself without incident. The right tools and patience goes a long way.
Yep. You need to buy or borrow and engine leveler. I used one last month to pull the engine and trans as a unit from my '61. It was a piece of cake. Going back in that way, too. My leveler only had one hook on each end, not two. I went diagonally, using the right rear-most and left front-most intake manifold bolt holes in the head. One trick I came up with: I looped a small chain across the frame rails to hold the transmission loosely in position after I pulled the cross-member. This kept the engine from tipping too far back, since it was only resting on the front engine mount. This way I didn't need a second guy with a floor jack under the car.
