[C2] Bent spindle?
Had to adjust passenger side front wheel bearings, they got loose enough to squeak and clang. This wheel has never had acceptable play when the preload is set correctly. Its necessary to torque it up a bit to get the slop out. Other wheel is perfect. Never had this issue on any other 60s vintage GM car, they've all set up correctly with good bearings. Could it he s bent spindle? There's no binding putting the hub on or taking it off. I'm stumped. FWIW, its never cooked a bearing on that side, the failure last year was on the other side.
Could be a worn spindle where the bearings ride. It allows the bearing race to move on the axle. I had it on both sides on my 65. You could feel the wear with your fingers on the lower side of the axle. I changed over to C3 spindles and hubs. Larger diameter axle and bigger bearings.
Tom
Tom
I had a bent spindle that made itself apparent when I tried to install new brake pads - one side was not even close to going. Since the caliper bracket is bolted to the spindle, you can see how well the rotor is centered between the caliper halves to determine if the spindle is bent. Probably something else going on however as noted by others above.
Thanks for the replies. The bearings are new, maybe 100 miles on them. The preload was set the way the chassis service manual says. Last time bearings were replaced was 25 years ago and it was the same thing on the passenger side: had to snug it more than recommended to get the slop out. Driver side, then and now was perfect when set up correctly. Time to caliper the bearing inner races and the spindle to see if it's what Sky says. Brakes seem centered and work correctly.
Mine was so bad the rotors would tip and push the brake pads back in parking lot maneuvers. The 1st hit on the brakes after such maneuvers the brake pedal would drop abnormally. Next hit and every application thereafter was fine until I did a right and left close turns again. Replacement parts fixed it. Funny thing is the wear was only on the bottom of the spindle axle. I guess that is where the vehicle weight is carried.
Tom
Tom
Most likely a worn spindle.....due to high mileage or being run dry or too tight. Not bent. You can check for bent by getting SAI readings on an alignment rack. (SAI Steering Axis Inclination is the same as the old KAI Kingpin Axis Inclination). I have 'knurled' spindles on some old cars enough so that the bearing would fit snugly and the inner race would not spin on the spindle. Can be done with a punch and a hammer.
The front wheel bearings are not "preloaded". They have to have a slight amount of clearance. The CSM recommends tightening the nut to about 25 lb-ft to "seat" the bearings and then backing off until you can first detect clearance.
With a six sided 24 thread per inch castle nut and two perpendicular holes for the cotter pin, you can adjust in 1/12 turn increments, which is .0035". I like clearance in the 1-2 thou range - makes the steering more precise assuming the steering system is tight. So if it's a little on the loose side you can dress the washer a thou or two, run the nut another 1/12 turn and get it down to the minimum. IIRC the factory clearance spec is 1-5 thou.
Duke
With a six sided 24 thread per inch castle nut and two perpendicular holes for the cotter pin, you can adjust in 1/12 turn increments, which is .0035". I like clearance in the 1-2 thou range - makes the steering more precise assuming the steering system is tight. So if it's a little on the loose side you can dress the washer a thou or two, run the nut another 1/12 turn and get it down to the minimum. IIRC the factory clearance spec is 1-5 thou.
Duke
The front wheel bearings are not "preloaded". They have to have a slight amount of clearance. The CSM recommends tightening the nut to about 25 lb-ft to "seat" the bearings and then backing off until you can first detect clearance.
With a six sided 24 thread per inch castle nut and two perpendicular holes for the cotter pin, you can adjust in 1/12 turn increments, which is .0035". I like clearance in the 1-2 thou range - makes the steering more precise assuming the steering system is tight. So if it's a little on the loose side you can dress the washer a thou or two, run the nut another 1/12 turn and get it down to the minimum. IIRC the factory clearance spec is 1-5 thou.
Duke
With a six sided 24 thread per inch castle nut and two perpendicular holes for the cotter pin, you can adjust in 1/12 turn increments, which is .0035". I like clearance in the 1-2 thou range - makes the steering more precise assuming the steering system is tight. So if it's a little on the loose side you can dress the washer a thou or two, run the nut another 1/12 turn and get it down to the minimum. IIRC the factory clearance spec is 1-5 thou.
Duke
Last edited by Avispa; Aug 5, 2019 at 05:26 PM.















