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Anyone out there using Valvoline VR 1 engine oil in a BB. Mine had 20/50 in it but I think the engine would be better with 10?30. Anyone care to comment?
Oil preference/recomendation is a widely discussed recent subject. In my SB, I use Rotella 15/40. Others may respond. If you use the search function with the word oil, you should find a post with SWCDuke responding. He has the details. Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; Aug 26, 2019 at 03:30 PM.
Get ready for your round of scolding for starting an oil thread!! Just kidding! No really...You're in trouble!!
I use the VR1 Mineral 10-30 in my '66 BB and really like it. The 10-30 is probably a better weight for the motor. It's tough to tell what's better with any oil...Just change it regularly.
I do use the 20-50 Synthetic too, but that goes in my '88 Porsche 911.
I know there are as many opinions on oil as there are days in the year. I am new to BB engines as most of my experience has been with foreign cars. I am really enjoying my car and all the folks I have met in the club. Just a great group of people. Far better than any other club I have belonged to.
None of the oils most suitable for flat tappers have the API symbol, including the VR1 you are currently using. Which is what I tell the guys I've helped out with their engines. They don't make it in and other weight that I know of. If you've been using it why do you want to change?
Look for SAE 15W-40 CK-4, otherwise known as HD diesel engine oil, on the API label. Brand makes no difference. Walmart is a good place to buy because they usually stock the national brands and their own house brand, which is usually less expensive, but every bit as good.
If you want to know why, search for threads started by me, download and read the engine oil article. It's been on several Web sites for over 10 years and published in several club magazines.
I've been running VR-1 20/50 Racing Oil in my 66 big block for years. I checked with Valvoline to make sure that the oil met all the standards for modern day lubricants, including ZDDP levels.
I have been using Joe Gibbs HR 2, 10W-30 in my sb 327/365. Very satisfied. Seems to hold viscosity better after warm up then the oils back in the 1970's. Purchase through Summit
I have used the Valvoline VR-1 10-30 for the past few years. My son had bought me a case of it, so used it all. Its gone now so I switched over to the 15W-40 Rotella this year. With the 10W-30, my oil pressure hot at idle was around 32psi. With the 10W-40, hot at idle its around 40psi.
Look for SAE 15W-40 CK-4, otherwise known as HD diesel engine oil, on the API label. Brand makes no difference. Walmart is a good place to buy because they usually stock the national brands and their own house brand, which is usually less expensive, but every bit as good.
If you want to know why, search for threads started by me, download and read the engine oil article. It's been on several Web sites for over 10 years and published in several club magazines.
Anyone out there using Valvoline VR 1 engine oil in a BB. Mine had 20/50 in it but I think the engine would be better with 10?30. Anyone care to comment?
I use Valvoline VR 1, 3 quarts of 10W/30, and 3 quarts of 20/50, in my 427. I thinks its a good blend.
But with all the options, you have decide for yourself what course to take.
I use Valvoline VR 1, 3 quarts of 10W/30, and 3 quarts of 20/50, in my 427. I thinks its a good blend.
But with all the options, you have decide for yourself what course to take.
I've thought of doing that when I was running the Valvoline VR 10W/30. I figured 3qts. of 10W30 with 2qts. of 20/50 would get me close to the 10/40 mix. Never did though, just kept using the 10/30.
Probably not a factor for most of us, but keep in mind that racing oils (like VR-1) do not contain some of the additives for long life (moisture resistance, etc.) found in regular oils.
This is because race engines are typically torn down after every race.
Also, as Duke and I discussed at a recent SoCal SACC tech session: Keep in mind that the new(ish) CK-4 spec limits zinc and phosphor lower than CJ-4 did.
The latest Shell Rotella has only ~800 PPM.
That said, they have supposedly added a boron-based anti-wear additive to these CK-4 blends. And as Duke points out, it still has to pass the "C" category anti-wear tests.. so it's probably still a good choice.
But it's getting harder to evaluate these things going forward.
I haven't looked at the VR-1 spec sheet for awhile. It's online, so if you are considering using - look it up and post it here. I recall it's rated SN, but as I pointed out in the oil article, if the winter viscosity rating is higher than 10W, the S-category P limit does not apply.
A true "racing oil", meant exclusively for racing engines that are torn down for inspection frequently lacks the detergent and dispersant additives required for long term use, so they cannot have an API rating of any kind.
I don't think the CK-4 rating has reduced the P limit, but some manufacturers have chosen to do so with the addition of the boron-based anti-wear additive. You have to review the spec sheets, which are online for the major national brand and maybe some of the dozens of house and private label brands.
It seems the VR-1 multi-weight oils (10w-30, 20w-50) have "SL", not SN.
Looking at a bottle, I don't see ANY rating on it.
Not sure if it's internet rumor or not, but I heard that California was not allowing VR-1 to be sold, and some stores can't get it. Might be because of the lack of rating?
Healthy amounts of P and Z though!
Dennis
Just kidding! No really...You're in trouble!! 
