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Just had the new cloth top installed on my new windshield and it has pulled away from the glass.WTF
The top is not that tight but I think the new rubber on the header is too thick,
Looks like the WS is going to have to be removed to fix the problem!
Are the new rubber gaskets kits that much thicker than the original ones or is something else going on?
The weatherstripping won't cause the problem (make sure that it is on correctly, as most inexperienced shops put it on backwards. The small "lip" faces forward). Either the top wasn't adjusted correctly, before the fabric was installed, or the pads/top are pulled too tight. The latches are pulling the top header "back", not "up", which is pulling it off of the glass. Broken windshield post tabs can also cause this issue. Also, if the tabs were replaced, and not "adjusted" to correct the shape of the windshield frame "oval", then the windshield header is not pushed down hard enough on the top of the glass.
If you play around with it, you can probably get the rubber back down on the glass. Use a popsicle stick, or plastic (don't use metal). Pull the rubber down, out of the upper channel, while you work the rubber back on to the glass. Fold the top down, and stand, centered over your windshield (on the seats), an firmly push the header back down on the glass. It should be very hard to pull the header back/up with your hands. If it moves easily, then you either have a broken tab, or the windshield frame was not assembled correctly.
The top frame MUST be adjusted before the fabric is installed. This means that when you put the top in the up position, the alignment pins are OVER the locating holes, and NOT behind them. When pull the latches, the pins should come straight down into the holes. This frame adjustment is critical, and is accomplished with the 3 big phillips head screws at the front of the sideframe (actually, only two of the screws need to be loosened to make the adjustment). You CANNOT do this after the pads are installed, as they have already set the dimension between the header and the #1 bow.
One thing that you might try, after you get the w/s back in, and the header pushed down, is to leave the back latches unhooked, and put the header on top of the windshield, locate the pins, and pull it down. If that works, then completely unlatch the header, and raise the rear deck latches as high as they will go, and hook the back latches ONLY (don't pull them down). Now, go to the front, and hook the front latches. You probably have to pull forward a little, but if the pins are way behind the locator holes, or you really have to pull to get them hooked, all of the above problems exist.
The proper procedure for putting the top up on a C1 is:
1. Raise the rear deck latches, and hook only
2. Locate the header pins (driver side first), and hook the latches only. (the passenger locator hole is oblong for a reason, locate the drivers side pin first).
3. Pull the latches down on the decklid.
4. Pull the latches down on the header. (If it's pulling back, and not down, then all of the above applies)
The weatherstripping won't cause the problem (make sure that it is on correctly, as most inexperienced shops put it on backwards. The small "lip" faces forward). Either the top wasn't adjusted correctly, before the fabric was installed, or the pads/top are pulled too tight. The latches are pulling the top header "back", not "up", which is pulling it off of the glass. Broken windshield post tabs can also cause this issue. Also, if the tabs were replaced, and not "adjusted" to correct the shape of the windshield frame "oval", then the windshield header is not pushed down hard enough on the top of the glass.
If you play around with it, you can probably get the rubber back down on the glass. Use a popsicle stick, or plastic (don't use metal). Pull the rubber down, out of the upper channel, while you work the rubber back on to the glass. Fold the top down, and stand, centered over your windshield (on the seats), an firmly push the header back down on the glass. It should be very hard to pull the header back/up with your hands. If it moves easily, then you either have a broken tab, or the windshield frame was not assembled correctly.
The top frame MUST be adjusted before the fabric is installed. This means that when you put the top in the up position, the alignment pins are OVER the locating holes, and NOT behind them. When pull the latches, the pins should come straight down into the holes. This frame adjustment is critical, and is accomplished with the 3 big phillips head screws at the front of the sideframe (actually, only two of the screws need to be loosened to make the adjustment). You CANNOT do this after the pads are installed, as they have already set the dimension between the header and the #1 bow.
One thing that you might try, after you get the w/s back in, and the header pushed down, is to leave the back latches unhooked, and put the header on top of the windshield, locate the pins, and pull it down. If that works, then completely unlatch the header, and raise the rear deck latches as high as they will go, and hook the back latches ONLY (don't pull them down). Now, go to the front, and hook the front latches. You probably have to pull forward a little, but if the pins are way behind the locator holes, or you really have to pull to get them hooked, all of the above problems exist.
The proper procedure for putting the top up on a C1 is:
1. Raise the rear deck latches, and hook only
2. Locate the header pins (driver side first), and hook the latches only. (the passenger locator hole is oblong for a reason, locate the drivers side pin first).
3. Pull the latches down on the decklid.
4. Pull the latches down on the header. (If it's pulling back, and not down, then all of the above applies)
Get a good, bright, pen light, and shine it into the post holes. You should be able to see the plate, and if you're lucky, part of the hole. Assuming that the nut plates were installed tightly with strip caulk, you can use a sharpened "pick" to slide the plate to a point where you can see one of the holes. Put the end of the sharpened pick, into the threaded hole (don't push down too hard, or you'll chip the glass). Wiggle it into position. If you can't see either of the threaded holes, you'll need to slide the plate with the end of the pick. You're only going to be able to move it about 1/16" at a time, but it can be done. Once you get a hole "lined up", use a long screw (10X32 thread), to catch the plate, and pull it tight into the channel. DO NOT SCREW IT IT, OR YOU'LL BREAK THE GLASS. ONCE THE THREAD IS STARTED, PULL IT UP WITH YOUR HAND, AND START THE CORRECT SCREW INTO THE OTHER HOLE.
The screw Mike is talking about will look similar to this. If you put a couple of wider flat washers on the screw it will give you a little leverage to move around and to pull up once the threads catch. I also used a rubber flat washer so as not to scratch the stainless. Sometimes takes multiple attempts but it works. Once you get the first mounting screw set things should go better. Good Luck
On my GTO the top has been adjusted wrong since I put it on. I readjusted it today where it closed down on the windshield instead of me pulling it forward and down with the clamps. It's not perfect but it does fit the top of the Windows much better now. Before I had a gap at the top but I didn't worry about it. The problem that created was at highway speed the ai was constantly removing the cold air from the car which in turn overworked my AC. I thought I had an AC problem when I had an untrained mechanic problem. Hopefully I'll have plenty of cold air going to Cruising the Coast this weekend. Thanks Mike
Last year as I was driving to CTC Mike was on the phone trying to tell me how to spray silver.
62 top windshield frame pulling up
