I am not aware of any early and late reveal mouldings for the 63 SWC, maybe I am about to learn something. When you get a chance post some pictures of your trim clips front and rear from your car, plus the back fiberglass window channel where the clips set. Do you have a AIM?

Did you remove the little slide in clips (top and bottom) from the windshield A pillar trim?

Someone has been there before you, and it can be difficult especially with the 63 model year.

 

I am unaware of any early/late differences in the trim for the rear window of 63 coupes...
As to window 'fuzzies' and other 63 specific things, you will find after you go through enough pain that Long Island Corvettes generally have the most faithful reproductions. The pieces that fit into the 63 coupe door panel channels take some finagling...

And the repro outside horizontal rubber strip for the bottom of the window was so thick it made the windows difficult to operate; I made my own from some Loew's garage door weatherstrip ... you can wind my windows up and down with two fingers. The regional judges were amazed by this when they did the ops checks...

 

57-19 Look like the ones I need if I going to replace them which considering how rusty they are, I think I will. I think the Two clips I think I have are actually the same clip but in some cases that little center tab is not there.

 

Well if you look at the picture associated with the bright blue car at the start of the thread, the Trim had clip connectors spaced along a rather flimsy looking moulding. Then look at mine. My trim is all clip, you could set the clips anywhere on the window and my trim would clip into it. So there is two moldings out there for sure. Compare post #11 and #13

 

Here is a rather an AMAZING solution in fact so AMAZING I should demand patent and copyright

A solution to the broken clip or bent /destroyed split window trim dilemma, and it works, I just tried it.

If you are going to remove your split windows and perhaps even if its a 64-67 try this first.
Do the 303 Protectorant soaking as indicated above, make your rubber as pliable as you can.
I set my split window back in the opening with a cord in the groove and reinstalled the window. I whacked in a piece of trim, and it was pinched HARD! and seated firmly between body and clip.
I then peeled back the rubber on the inside of the car far enough that I could see the end of the clips. I then took a small punch and a rubber hammer and gave the clip edge a wack toward the window. Not hard but hard enough to move the clip. Guess what happened? it released the trim that I had whacked into place between the paint job and the clip !!!! ROTFLMAO
When working in a closed area like the back edge trim use a Z piece of steel, one end to hook the clip, the other to whack with a hammer. Its slick as snot off a ducks beak!
All this does is move the clip away from your paint job and the rubber prevents you from damaging the window and it releases the trim . So next I will try putting the clips on but not tight against the fiberglass and setting in the trim, and having the wife keep down pressure on the trim piece while i tighten the clip by whacking the clip toward the trim to see if that also works when installing. Love it when a plan comes together!

There should be no reason to ever damage your SW trim or your paint job when doing it this way because you have now removed the pressure off the trim by moving the clip away from your body where the trim is "pinched", remove the pinch and now moving the clip with a dental hook is a piece of cake. In fact the dental hook works better then the trim tool I spent 50 bucks on

The repro rubber may not allow the clip to move because its rather bulbus, so save your window rubber if you can, and you can if you lubricate the crap out of it with 303!

 

I've never heard of early or late either.

Here's a blow up of the picture of the blue car in post 11. The area of the trim you mention with no clip gripping is on one of the small 90º pieces. it is slid onto one of the long pieces.

90º piece on the left---- slid onto a straight piece on the right.

 

Okay....but my 90's are all clip except the overlap area,....sooooo it still is two different trims

 

Someone may have modified this trim in the above picture, I think there are some things in that video I question. I will have to see if there are any pictures of the trim from my car.

Do some research on the correct products to use when sealing the glass during the install, silicone is not the product to use.

 

Why would you say that, silicone based caulkings are one of the best sealants on the planet and are used by all Window Installers today?

Everyone of these are silicone based so why wouldn't I use what everyone else is using?
https://www.google.com/search?q=best...hrome&ie=UTF-8

 

I don't know anything about those sealants, the only thing I will offer is to use a sealing compound that's non hardening.

From the factory there was a bedding compound layed in the frame channel then rope the glass into the frame. At that point the glass was sealed/glued to the rubber then the bedding compound filled the area in the frame channel and finally the trim pushed down into the frame channel. On original cars you can see the bedding compound sealed between the frame channel and trim that pushed out and was smoothed into place.

 

Actually thats the advantage of silicon based products, they never harden and have significant elasticity and hence the reason everyone uses them. I have used this product for years and never had a leak
https://www.permatex.com/products/ad...-glass-sealer/