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With a well done period correct block and a good pad stamp with the FI unit the car will probably demand 150k plus. All the other incorrect items would also need to be fixes.
Have a buddy that just learned his 63 convertible started life as a fuel car, he is now building the engine after having it judges as a 300hp car.
With a well done period correct block and a good pad stamp with the FI unit the car will probably demand 150k plus. All the other incorrect items would also need to be fixes.
Have a buddy that just learned his 63 convertible started life as a fuel car, he is now building the engine after having it judges as a 300hp car.
What do you mean by "a good pad stamp." Are you referring to a restamp?
I'm sure he is, you can still get a Top Flight with a well done restamp. I saw it done at the 2016 regionals in Florida on a '67 BB convertible. Rich Mozetta had restored the car. IIRC the hit for the restamp was 88 points...
$150K from a buyer assuming full disclosure about the non "born with" block; that's a stretch IMO...
If you could track down the original block, converting back to FI would be worth the cost regarding the end-value of the car. As it sits, it depends. It will cost between 15k and 20k to convert it back with all the 'right' parts. Would it bring the car's value from 80-85k (where I believe it is) to 100-105k with a non matching block? It's possible. Depends on the market and the buyer. I used to be a Fawn Beige and Saddle Tan hater. Now, I find both to be preferred colors, at least to me. I recently looked at a long-stored SWC that was blue with a black interior. The ask was about 80k. Turns out, it was originally a Saddle Tan/Saddle car with a '70's repaint and interior swap. It had been hit and repaired on all 4 corners, was NOM, but had zero rust and was a solid driver. I was willing to go 55-60-ish, and the seller would not budge off of his 80k. These cars are hot right now, and one in this shape, even with its little 'correctness' issues, is a no-excuses car, IMO. I would be proud to own it. I also LIKE the Hurst shifter and the headers, and would leave them on the car if it were in my garage.
Thanks GTOguy, that was the answer I was looking for. There is a local Corvette shop that specializes in C1-C3 vettes that I used on my 1972 and they did good work. The owner is familiar with the car and he estimated a lower dollar number then the $15k mentioned in posts here (he said $10k). But it seems to be a coin flip if this raises the value of the car by the cost of upgrade so if that's the case, I'll probably play it safe and leave it as - is.
Last edited by ed_yellowc5; Oct 21, 2019 at 08:56 PM.
Like it, not bad not perfect. Honest, aged. Love the vintage edelbrock valve covers
The trim tags...looks like it was sanded in the areas the rivets go? Think its been off before?
id also leave the FI off, think theres plenty of "I can use it" value in having the carb on knowing its probably a real fuelie
Like it, not bad not perfect. Honest, aged. Love the vintage edelbrock valve covers
The trim tags...looks like it was sanded in the areas the rivets go? Think its been off before?
id also leave the FI off, think theres plenty of "I can use it" value in having the carb on knowing its probably a real fuelie
All the z-bars were hit with a grinder to help ensure the spot welds would hold. Perfectly normal.
As you go through your decision making process keep in mind that there are multiple parts and pieces (which may be missing or need to be replaced) which are unique to the 1963 model. Being the first C2 in the series a number of the parts and pieces are "one year only" which makes most of those items both rare and expensive. This makes the restoration or simply refreshing of a 63 that much more difficult and expensive. Fortunately there are a good number of 63 owners on this Forum who are both knowledgeable and helpful and can guide you through the process; but the unique parts and pieces will still dog you.
Thanks GTOguy, that was the answer I was looking for. There is a local Corvette shop that specializes in C1-C3 vettes that I used on my 1972 and they did good work. The owner is familiar with the car and he estimated a lower dollar number then the $15k mentioned in posts here (he said $10k). But it seems to be a coin flip if this raises the value of the car by the cost of upgrade so if that's the case, I'll probably play it safe and leave it as - is.
Your guy needs to look deeper into the cost of correct 63 F/I parts....
I'd say $15K was the floor on converting back....
Most on this forum turn the wrenches themself so my estimate of $15K to go back to a FI system was just parts if you want all original date match parts they are expensive and hard to find. Then you need to hire a pro to rebuild the unit since most are removed because they don't work.
Hope this helps.
Most on this forum turn the wrenches themself so my estimate of $15K to go back to a FI system was just parts if you want all original date match parts they are expensive and hard to find. Then you need to hire a pro to rebuild the unit since most are removed because they don't work.
Hope this helps.
Mark
Agree, a restored 1963 FI unit and all the 1963 air cleaner parts will run you about 18 to 20k. Then you need to install them.
And the distributor and exhaust manifolds. My guess is around $20,000 all in, or a little more.
I agree. I was researching the cost of FI stuff when I got my '61, as the PO was in the process of converting it from a 2/4 car to a FI car....5 years ago, basic FI units were 12-15k, the distributor was 3k, the air filter assembly was $$$$, and on and on. 10k to convert an oem FI car back to FI? If that were the case, your guy would have a line of Sting Ray's outside his shop just waiting for the 50% discount conversion!