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Getting ready to install a fresh rebuilt engine back into my car, after having the crank break back at the end of August. Just came back from the engine shop and he did a pull on the dyno, 340 HP and 399 lbs of torque .Now l plan on tilting the tranny up because it is in the car, and sliding the engine into place. Can the fuel pump be installed before l drop in the engine or will it be tight and l should install after the engine is in.Any other tips will be greatly appreciated. Elio
I've R&R'd my big block several times with the fuel pump attached. You shouldn't have any trouble doing the same on a small block. The installation is a lot easier with the bellhousing attached to the transmission, and the clutch already installed on the flywheel. Plan to use a good steel alignment tool on the clutch to do the latter. The plastic things that come with clutch kits are dicey and may make it very hard to slide the trans shaft through the clutch disk. It should slide right in, no forcing needed.
The last time I installed a SB in a midyear................................. ..
Transmission was in the car with the bell housing installed on the transmission. Both motor mounts and fuel pump off the engine. The reason I left them off they prevented me from easily getting alignment of the engine to the transmission.
Once you get the transmission hooked up, install the motor mounts and pump before you lower the engine. You can do it all from the topside.
I agree. I just installed a fuel pump on my 68. Make sure the engine is at top dead center on the compression stroke. The dist. will be pointing to the number 1 spark plug. If your engine has a bolt in the front for the purposes of locking the fuel pump rod in the up position, now would be the time to put a longer bolt in the boss to lock the rod in place. Once the pump is installed, replace the long bolt with the shorter bolt. That should do it. Jerry
I did the install with the clutch and transmission attached since I didn't want to deal with it after. The biggest thing you may run into will depend on your hoist. If you have an overhead crane, no big deal. But a lot of the engine hoists have limited reach, and you may need to be on the side of the engine to drop it in. If so, pulling the front wheel(s) off and putting the car on jack stands might be better. But you also have to think about where the legs of the hoist will need to go so they don't interfere with the stands. I put mine in from the drivers side, but I assume either side will be the same. If you have a choice when renting the hoist, see which ones have the longest arm (and don't exceed the weight limit) as that may allow you to install from the front, which is easier.
I would go ahead and leave the fuel pump on the engine during the install. It's a lot easier to access (the fuel pump) with the engine out of the car.
We just put a new engine into my 67 this past Columbus Day and as you can see from the picture, I left the fuel pump on the engine during the installation. I have done this a few times and have found it easier to install an engine with the transmission already attached to the rear of the engine. Others would disagree but opinions vary. Good Luck. C.J.
I did the install with the clutch and transmission attached since I didn't want to deal with it after. The biggest thing you may run into will depend on your hoist. If you have an overhead crane, no big deal. But a lot of the engine hoists have limited reach, and you may need to be on the side of the engine to drop it in. If so, pulling the front wheel(s) off and putting the car on jack stands might be better. But you also have to think about where the legs of the hoist will need to go so they don't interfere with the stands. I put mine in from the drivers side, but I assume either side will be the same. If you have a choice when renting the hoist, see which ones have the longest arm (and don't exceed the weight limit) as that may allow you to install from the front, which is easier.
The car is on a 4 post lift and we pulled the engine from drivers side without problems and the hoist has a very long reach. I hope to get everything put together before the cold and snow so l can go for a quick December drive before putting her away for the winter. Elio
I would go ahead and leave the fuel pump on the engine during the install. It's a lot easier to access (the fuel pump) with the engine out of the car.
We just put a new engine into my 67 this past Columbus Day and as you can see from the picture, I left the fuel pump on the engine during the installation. I have done this a few times and have found it easier to install an engine with the transmission already attached to the rear of the engine. Others would disagree but opinions vary. Good Luck. C.J.
Fuel Pump in place during install.
I don't have that much room so i'm coming in from the side and with the tranny in the car and i'll take it slow and easy.I see you also have engine mounts installed also.
Last edited by ed,s64; Nov 20, 2019 at 04:38 PM.
Reason: spelling
We put our BB in with the motor and trans as one unit, went in just fine, motor mounts on..... Had left the fuel pump off, as I thought I read somewhere that needed to be that way. Put the fuel pump on right after motor was in, no problem...… Had to remove and replace the fuel pump AFTER everything was together, exhaust manifold on, heater hoses and lower radiator hose full of coolant, by myself from under the car...… Hoping that the counseling and meds start helping...… waking up from the night sweats reliving that has not been enjoyable......
The last time I installed a SB in a midyear................................. ..
Transmission was in the car with the bell housing installed on the transmission. Both motor mounts and fuel pump off the engine. The reason I left them off they prevented me from easily getting alignment of the engine to the transmission.
Once you get the transmission hooked up, install the motor mounts and pump before you lower the engine. You can do it all from the topside.
Would you recommend any guide pins attached to the engine? I have the same install coming up shortly
Not really guide pins per se, but several of they guys have made and used a set of threaded rods which are the same diameter and thread type to screw into the two upper bolt holes where the two upper transmission mount bolts normally screw into. One of our Forum members has posted pictures of the threaded rods in place in the past. The threaded rods are about six inches long with no head on them. They help to guide and to hold the transmission in place as the transmission attempts to align with the bellhousing. Very cool idea.
Would you recommend any guide pins attached to the engine? I have the same install coming up shortly
I guess you could install guide pins in the block to align the bellhousing to it. You already have the big guide pin known as the transmission input shaft. It's important to slide the engine back to the transmission exactly perpendicular to the transmission input shaft after you enter it into the clutch disc.
You can install some long bolts through the bellhousing into the engine block (case) at that point to help with alignment. Just don't use the bolts to draw the two together. If they are in line, everything will slide together like a knife through butter.
Yes. that's what I was thinking .I have some very long bolts that I was going to cut the heads off and use them as a guide like you said. Thanks A bunch
Here's what I use when installing a transmission - the two guide studs for the two upper trans-to-bellhousing holes are 1/2" x 13 bolts with the heads cut off, rounded, and a saw cut added to help remove them with a flat-bladed screwdriver. The orange plastic plug seals the output shaft at the seal to prevent dribbling any of that smelly gear lube while you're wrestling with the transmission.
I've done it your way in the past with a homemade transmission jack and long bolts. I'll do it again if I can't mate my new engine up with the bellhousing attached to the transmission. I just was looking for a different way without taking all the bull off the transmission The shop manual also mentions leaving the tranny in. I'm 70 years old and the garage floor gets a little cold for this old boy. Thank you for posting friend
Tried it with the transmission in the car today with no luck. Made up some guide pins but still did not work. I put a bur in the clutch plate and had to take off and file it. Going to just slide the transmission back with my homemade tranny jack and do it the old fashion way that I've done many times in the past. Oh well, doing it this way I can put just about everything on the engine and drop it in.
Question about engine install
Elio
) at that point to help with alignment. Just don't use the bolts to draw the two together. If they are in line, everything will slide together like a knife through butter.
