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Great!!! How do I turn it around. I'll try to post more pictures. Been fighting with the doors and panels. Repainted it and this car really sucks putting it all back together. OMG. Everything is a fight. My 56 Chevy pick up has better hardware. It's a retromod. The body and most of the interior is stock. I'm waiting for dash cluster parts, so I'll be working on the top in the morning. i'LL need lots of prayers. Thanks Everyone for your help. Great site....
Great!!! How do I turn it around. I'll try to post more pictures. Been fighting with the doors and panels. Repainted it and this car really sucks putting it all back together. OMG. Everything is a fight. My 56 Chevy pick up has better hardware. It's a retromod. The body and most of the interior is stock. I'm waiting for dash cluster parts, so I'll be working on the top in the morning. i'LL need lots of prayers. Thanks Everyone for your help. Great site....
In my opinion the header fit will improve greatly by installing the weather strip correctly. It is meant to wrap around the windshield header. So, I would remove the w/s by picking out the staples. I use a small pointed screw driver, I grind the end to a point to pick out the staples. Inspect it and replace if necessary. ( $20 max ) . Re position and re staple the w/s in place. Adjust the front latches.
Ok I pulled the rubber weather strip. It was just glued on with about a gallon of silicone, I see what your talking about it being on backwards. I posted more pics. I"ll be working on it in the morning. This is my car that I built from scratch. I pieced the body together and bought all the little parts one at a time. Took 5 years to get everything. It's on a custom chassis and I'm using a 2004 vette motor bored .030 over. I built the motor in my garage and built the car after I lost my job. (back surgery). Ford 9 inch and 700R4 trans, Wilwood brakes, Flaming River steering stuff. Carb set up. That's why I'm using the scoop out of a Trans am. The engine sat to high with the carb on top. Ok. Wish me luck on the top. Thanks everyone for your help.
That is a classic case of someone who doesn't want to take the time to do the job correctly. There is a tack strip on the underside of the cloth with about 11 or 12 sliding nuts. It is one of the worst parts of installing a C1 top ( IMO). I use an exacto knife and cut away the cloth for each sliding nut. There is also a retainer ( that you are missing ) and of course screws to hold it in place. The problem is that many times the tack strip is old and needs to be replaced. If that is the case you will have to peal back the cloth and install a new one ( which can be a difficult job ).
One easy fix is to staple the w/s on. It is not a very good fix but can work in a pinch. Don't forget to use screws on each end of the w/s. They will screw into a hole on the underside of the end caps.
Also, there is a flap that should wrap around the leading edge of the frame by the front edge of the window. It looks like it is still there but tucked under. This will give the top a cleaner look.
This is just one reason that it is expensive to install a top on a C1. This kind of work takes a long time. If it were me I would suck it up and do it correctly using the retainer and forget about it.
Feel free to PM me if you need help.
Larry
Last edited by woodsdesign; Feb 25, 2020 at 09:14 AM.
Woodsdesign, Thank You for your help. I had to retub the trunk now that I have a top that needs to rest in when lowered. Fiberglass is a norm for me now. In the beginning I wasn't going to use a top, but changed my mind. I bought the top used for $1500. I thought I could just drop it in and go. Not so...LMAO. Thanks agian
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Convertable top problem
