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Timing Chain Changeout

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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 01:31 PM
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Default Timing Chain Changeout

I need to replace the timing chain on the "Bubba Special" ('64 250hp). The service manual calls for removing the hood and radiator just to remove the harmonic balancer, and calls for removing the oil pan to remove the timing chain cover. Is all this really necessary? I do want to do the chain replace with the engine in the car.
Any recommend tutorials?
The search function on here is not great, and the utube videos I've found are not very good either.
Thanks in advance!
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 01:47 PM
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You’ll get 50 ways to cut corners, but short answer, yes. Removing the hood and radiator makes removing the shroud, hoses, fan, water pump much easier, although may be more steps. You’ll have to drop the steering link, then the oil pan, not sure about the starter. Once here, the timing cover can be accessed. Install is the reverse.
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 02:07 PM
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I’ve never dropped an oil pan on a c2 so I don’t know the clearance or how much of a PITA it is, if you have access to drop the pan down/out without taking the motor out of the car I would drop the pan replace rear main while you are under there & reseal pan..
Back in the dealership days and old timer showed me how to loosen the pan tilt front of pan down sneak out timing case cover snip some of the upper metal tab corners on the back of cover Replace both front seals on cover install silicone in the corners that were snipped and “pop” cover back into place. I don’t really recommend this old fashion method but on the right vehicle you can make it work with no leaks don’t ask me how I know.
ps - it wouldn’t surprise me you may have to install a sleeve on the balancer crank snout old seal makes a nice groove in the area where seal rode, sleeve gets installed over the entire o.d. of the balancer hub & prevents leaks, also make sure when you replace front crank seal on timing case cover to put some silicone on the o.d. Metal ring of seal before installing it in the t/case cover to make it leak proof also
Good Luck
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 10:51 PM
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There is a long lip on the inside of the chain cover to hold the rubber gasket in place. Unless this lip has been trimmed by an old racer, you must drop the pan at least 1/2" to get the chain cover off. You can do it without removing the pan totally (mechanic's shortcut), but you have to be careful because the rubber seal / gasket has of key for the pan gasket and I always use Permatex at that junction, thus I would plan on replacing the pan gasket also. It is always a good idea to retorque all of the pan bolts after you fool with it.
The starter has to be removed on the small flywheel (154 tooth?) cars to get to the pan bolts above it.
Might consider a new rear main seal if you have any leaks.
Also remember to look for a groove in the harmonic dampner and sleeve it if needed.
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