Just bought a 1966 327/300. It is the first vintage car that I've owned, so forgive me for asking a newbie question...what fuel and lead additives are you guys using in your cars? Any other advice??

 

E 10 89 octane. That's all you need.

 

I like aviation fuel, 100LL. A big power difference with the higher octane, has lead, and a longer storage life.

 

No additives needed.
In my 1967 with a 327/300HP I usually use premium pump gas, but you might be able to use regular pump gas if you want.

 

Welcome to the CF. Tell us about your path to ownership, car details and the necessary pics required before we baptise you into the troop.
If your engine tuneup specs are set properly, no additives needed, you can run 89, but 90 or 91 might be better. Just make sure if you hear pinging, get the adjustments made as needed.

 

Agreed, and I'll add that I think it's worthwhile to use a gasoline that's qualified to be listed as a "Top Tier" gasoline. Almost all of the major brands are Top Tier rated, and the pump will normally have the "Top Tier" logo on the pump. The majority of the mom & pop stores don't have that rating. It refers to the amount and type of detergents/additive in the gasoline which aid and assist in keeping the engine cylinders/valves free of deposits. Several of the major automotive manufacturers recommend use of a top tier gasoline, although none that I'm aware of require it. I've seen pictoral results of the differences in top tier/non-top tier usage and have become a believer. Little difference in cost between the two, usually a few cents on the gallon, if any. My thoughts only . .

 

if he needs that in a base 327 then his engine is no 300hp

 

Tell me more about this big difference.

 

.....and welcome aboard here on the forum as well as to the midyear club

 

 

I have 11.0:1 compression ratio. I can really feel the power difference between 92 octane and 100 LL octane. My E.T. time slips show a difference also. All I have to say is try it and you will like it.

 

Do you know anything about the engine with respect to valve seals? I know there’s a large debate regarding additives but I’m guessing that’s why you asked.

Ed

 

I think the major debate used to be about valve seat recession at higher temperatures, but AFAIK that's pretty well gone by the way . . . . .

 

Before your inquiry vanishes in a fog of conventional wisdom and inapplicable personal allegory, I'll try, here goes.

Generally speaking the idea is to set ignition timing to shop manual specification and to add as much as you can without any pinging. You want an engine ( one used in a Corvette that is) to be on the verge of ping but no ping. Doing that will depend very much on the octane of the fuel used - so you tune your car, set timing according to the fuel you will be using every day. An engine cannot take advantage of higher octane fuel on its own as a modern car can. Its timing must be advanced to take advantage of racing or aviation fuel.

There is a long simmering argument over the value of hardened valve seats installed in old car heads deigned for lead compounds to protect against seat recession. I find as in most things the truth is in the middle. If that is true and your engine does not have hardened seats I wouldn't worry a bit about it. Unless of course you will use it each weekend to boot it up long steep grades towing a camper and an overweight Mother-in-law.

Use name brand high octane pump gas and tune the engine. If the car will sit during the winter fill it with fuel and add Marine (blue stuff) Stable per directions and run it some miles before you put it away. Beyond that no additives necessary for your stock 327.

Dan

 

I run pure 100% gasoline no ethanol 90 octane premium and once a month I add 3 to 4 gals of 110 leaded race fuel to keep everything clean inside.

I do this on all 3 of my 65,66,67 cars and they love me for it.

 

Your help to the OP is useless without telling him what engines you have in all of your 65, 66, 67 cars.

 

One of the best things that ever happened to gasoline was taking the lead out. Hard on spark plugs, combustion chamber deposits, exhaust systems and your lungs.

Another best thing was adding ethanol. It's an excellent solvent/cleaner and keeps everything nice and clean.

 

I've tried aviation gas a couple of times in my 67 327/350, because a friend at an airport wanted me to, and I discovered it makes not the slightest bit of difference in performance on the street or an autocross.

 

I had the exact same experience.

Ed

 

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