I was considering buying a Quickjack ,so that I could pull the 4 speed trans on my '66 big block and replace the clutch myself. The lift height is supposed to be 21". Is this high enough to angle the trans out?
I can also use it to replace the entire brake system. Due to height limitations in the garage, and cost, I'm staying away from a 2 or 4 post lift.

 

It should be high enough to get the transmission itself out - the trick is having enough maneuvering room to get yourself in there to where you can manhandle it down. That’s why I use a little wood sled/trans stand so I can work off to the side rather than directly underneath it. For what it’s worth a couple guys have confirmed they have been able to push the trans back far enough over the crossmember in the tunnel, to allow removing the bellhousing and replace the clutch.

 

I bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight for this job, knowing that I was never going to do it again. This was in a 65 small block coupe. There was just enough room to get the transmission out from underneath but I swore many times about the Corvette engineers. Why didn't they design a removable member so that the transmission could just drop out. After the job I sold the jack on CL so that I would never be tempted to do this again.

 

I am one who has done what Dan describes , very doable but be prepared to be a contortionist.

 

I'll also need to R&R the flywheel because I noticed the front edge of of the ring gear teeth have some damage from the previous starter. So I assume that's not a problem getting to either?

 

if you get to the clutch you can get to the flywheel, no problem.

 

while your at it check the pilot bushing/bearing

 

When we bought the car, it had a noise in the transmission I couldn't find and had to remove it manually lying on my back. If you are in good physical condition, it can be done. Not fun.
I had the car up on jack stands and blocks. Removed the Muncie manually, fought it all of the way out, dropping it on my chest (no jack) as I had always done. I had to enlist the better half's help which did not make her happy nor me. I Failed to have the car high enough and had to drag the box off of my chest and drag it out.
Found the one year only anti-clunk washer and springs floating around, removed them and all else seemed fine. I didn't fully strip it down as all seemed very good.
Going back in was even more fun, even with a transmission adapter borrowed for my floor jack. Trying to coordinate lifting the transmission (wife on the jack handle) and get the bellhousing aligned, etc., was beyond civilized words and there were none spoken.
Put it back together and still had the noise. Alcohol flowed freely.
I have dropped more than a dozen of transmissions lying under various big three cars. Never have I struggled so much going both ways. My wife refused to help me do it again.
2nd time, I used my cherry picker with long reach and had the engine and transmission assembly out in less time than just pulling the transmission.
Upon complete transmission disassembly, found 2nd gear bearing surface was oxidized almost black as if it had been hot although the shaft was perfect. Replaced the gear and put it back together and back in to the car as one unit. Saved a lot of money on alcohol the second time. But,
Now had a similar but new noise in the same area of the trans case. Hours of troubleshooting and then back out!! Long story short the new gear was for an older Muncie and is a few thousands smaller in diameter than the one needed for the 66 model. Back in and celebration began.
If you decide to tackle it without pulling the assembly, get some good strong help who knows the basics of doing the job and a 'good' transmission jack. Screaming profanities in the ear of your spouse does not improve your relationship.
Just $.02.

If your flywheel is in good condition and you have a torch, you can flip the ring gear on the flywheel and save the cost of a new flywheel.

 

That's my reason for replacing the clutch. That T/O bearing has been squealing for the last 10 years. But I would like to drop the trans to check out it's components.

 

I pulled the 4 speed trans out of my first Corvette, a '64 back in 1975, while lying on my back. I was 21 then and all alone. Big mistake. I didn't have enough room under there to roll or push the trans off of my chest. Breathing became more difficult. Just then a friend of mine happened to be walking past and got help, from the fire dept that I was a member of. The embarrassment was worse than the chest pain. I did get it back in, but had help then. And I swore never again. I'm now 66 and breaking my promise to myself. But I'm either going to do it safely or not at all. .... I'm also on my third marriage, so I can't afford to do any screaming.

 

honestly this is no fun dropping a Muncie without a removable crossmember, I have done it twice and replaced a clutch without dropping the trans, but if I ever had to do it again I would pull the motor and or the unit as a whole depending upon what needs to be done, I can still bench press a Muncie , but I sure as hell don't want to ever again., the T/O bearing and Pilot Bushing/bearing are two different things, the pilot Bushing/Bearing is in the end of the crank at the back of the motor, the T/O bearing is in the bell housing, but you knew that, its just my OCD kicking in.

 

Im 66 as well brother and we just don't recover as quickly as we would with a 21 year old body, and I don't care how good in shape you may be. Pull the Motor, you will be done in half the time as well as saving yourself from un wanted pain.

 

I just turned 72 and now struggle to move the DNE 5 speed around stored under my bench. Used to manhandle it at the track for a quick clutch change in a 71 Vega. Things change. I hear some changes are even for the good.

 

I’m almost 70 and helped a friend with his Hemi Roadrunner restoration. I’ll take a lightweight Muncie over that anchor-weight Chrysler 4 speed any day.

good luck.

 

I've changed the trans in my Chevelle many times lying on the floor under the car, no problem. The Sting Ray, I pulled the motor and transmission out together.

 

I'm 77, and everything I own has a Muncie, except the Cutlass which has a Richmond 5sp. I remove and install everything manually myself, BUUUUUUUUUUT, for the past few years, I have had to enlist a son or friend to raise and stab the transmission. I have found that jacks and other things just get in the way.
And I will agree, WHY THE HECK DIDN'T THE ENGINEERS DESIGN A REMOVABLE TRANSMISSION CROSS MEMBER??????????????????? The 53-62 models have a removable cross member and it makes life easier.

Regarding the ring gear on the flywheel---------------------AS MENTIONED, IT CAN BE FLIPPED OVER TOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!
Once the flywheel is removed, the way I do it, is to use a soft drift (alum, brass, etc) and 3lb hammer and progressively walk around the ring gear, tapping it off a little at a time. Clean everything thoroughly. Place the ring gear in the wife's over (after it is clean) at 500deg for at least 30min (putting it in the oven heats it more evenly than a torch). Have the flywheel ready and quickly remove the ring gear from the oven, position it on the flywheel. It may and may not drop on all the way, so use the drift and hammer to tap it on until it is completely seated (BE SURE THE RING GEAR IS FLIPPED OVER TO THE FRESH SIDE OF THE TEETH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). Now, you have a FREE, NEW ring gear!
Unless a flywheel has gouges, pits or scratches, I DO NOT, repeat, DO NOT have it surfaced. I put it in my Harbor Freight blast cabinet and thoroughly blast the surface for the disc. If it has heat spots, they come right out.

Here is the before and after blasting of the flywheel in our 70 Chevelle.

 

All of you other "middle aged" men have gained wisdom over the years, along with arthritis and prostate problems (I had my cancerous one removed). And it makes sense to pull the engine and trans. It's totally original with 92k miles and it's about time that the oil pan gasket, oil pump, and timing chain be replaced. I have all new valve springs, seals, rocker arms and lifters, so I that would be the time to replace them with the cam as well. And of course detail the rest of the engine.


1966 427/390 hp. 92k miles. One family owned.

 

21" is a good height for under car maintenance. When I replaced my fuel lines I went to 26" and it's a little to high as I have to strain to bend up out of the creeper to reach many things. So 21" should be good as it gets for something like a clutch repair/replace. Now you can get some 4" blocks for the Quick Jack if more height is needed. I'll attach a pic of my body at 26" if that can help. BTW Home Depot has the QJ on sale now for $1,050 and that matches Costco pricing. I've been waiting for this QJ pricing but my garage is full and I'm trying to convince myself I can waite. Yes I have a low ceiling garage too.

I also worry about getting pinned under the car. Try to keep my cell phone with me when I dive under the car but sometimes I don't want to roll on it. If something happened no one would know it until the neighbors smelled something getting ripe. Not a glorious way to go. Take 2 for safety before diving under the car, verify your means of keeping the car off you (safety jacks) and your communications. I'd like to suggest Harbor Freight has some robust looking transmission jacks that I'm interested in. Much better than the previous floor jack add on trans holders they used to sell. The old floor jack adapters I found were pretty much junk and I was glad to get rid of mine at a swapmeet. The HF entry level jack is a small scissors jack that should fit a muncie/borg warner just right. And then for more money the HF trans jacks get better. It could make the difference between a physical battle with the trans and making it fun to remove and replace.

So FYI when I did my fuel lines I had to learn bendology to get those lines in and fastened down. The way I did it lifting the body one side at a time and only 26" is not the the way to do it. Lifting the body fully off is the way to do it period. I looked my brake lines over and decided their still in good enough condition but realized the brake lines are even more difficult and wouldn't try it just lifting one side at a time like I did my fuel lines. Just my suggestion unless those steel brakes line show nasty corrosion then leave them alone or at least until your ready to lift the entire body fully off.

Hope this will help ya.


Farm jack in place.

 

What kind of jack is that? It looks like the old bumper jacks. Is there a long arm that extends under the frame and body? It definitely takes it up higher than any hydraulic floor jack could. Thanks for the tip about the Home Depot sale pricing on the Quickjack.

 

Thats a farm jack. You mostly see them on off roaders. They are a little tricky to use and the arm extends only like 4" (note the 2x4 in the pic). If your not careful when racking it down and it becomes unloaded it just drops all the way.

If you expect to buy one I will wait for your opinion on the QuickJack before purchasing then.