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I'm restoring my '62 Vette, This was all numbers correct when I got it two years ago, The engine remains exact, but I've swapped in a Muncie, and a new Edelbrock Carb, and electronic ignition. I'm having electric power steering installed. I'm sticking with all of the original gauges and switches. The tach is shot so I'm replacing it with a high rev distributor drive. My speedometer makes a lot of noise and the needle jumps erratically. I am thinking of replacing it with an electronic speedometer. I'm using Dakota Digital on a '55 Nomad with an SBC 350, and a '49 Olds with an LS1. They work great but the gauges are very small. Since I plan to use the original gauges and tach on my Vette I only want the electronic speedo...any suggestions?
Bob
I'm restoring my '62 Vette, This was all numbers correct when I got it two years ago, The engine remains exact, but I've swapped in a Muncie, and a new Edelbrock Carb, and electronic ignition. I'm having electric power steering installed. I'm sticking with all of the original gauges and switches. The tach is shot so I'm replacing it with a high rev distributor drive. My speedometer makes a lot of noise and the needle jumps erratically. I am thinking of replacing it with an electronic speedometer. I'm using Dakota Digital on a '55 Nomad with an SBC 350, and a '49 Olds with an LS1. They work great but the gauges are very small. Since I plan to use the original gauges and tach on my Vette I only want the electronic speedo...any suggestions?
Bob
I would talk to one of the several speedo rebuilders about swapping in an electronic movement for the mechanical one. I imagine it can be done. At what time and expense I know not. I think before I embarked on that quest I would sooner replace the likely bone dry drive cable which would be consistent with your description. Sometimes the existing drive cables can be removed from the jacket on the transmission end and some lube stuffed up there. Sometimes the cable fitting on the speedo end can be cracked and loosened 1/8th an inch or so and things are good again.
I would talk to one of the several speedo rebuilders about swapping in an electronic movement for the mechanical one. I imagine it can be done. At what time and expense I know not. I think before I embarked on that quest I would sooner replace the likely bone dry drive cable which would be consistent with your description. Sometimes the existing drive cables can be removed from the jacket on the transmission end and some lube stuffed up there. Sometimes the cable fitting on the speedo end can be cracked and loosened 1/8th an inch or so and things are good again.
Dan
Thanks Dan. I've done what you suggest in my black '56 Chevy in backing up the fitting a quarter or half turn and I got the noise to stop and the needle movement to stabilize but it isoff by about 10 or 15 mph. I'm using the original 3 sp with OD and I'm using the correct color gear at the gear drive in the transmission. The mph are exact on the digitals as I believe they work off GPS.
Bob
Thanks Dan. I've done what you suggest in backing up the fitting a quarter or half turn and I got the noise and to stop and the needle movement to stabilize but it isoff by about 10 or 15 mph. I'm using the original 3 sp with OD and I'm using the correct color gear at the yoke in the transmission. The mph are exact on the digitals as I believe they work off GPS.
Bob
Maybe some are GPS but those I'm familiar with use a transducer that works off the tranny gear via short cable or otherwise, I have a Gearvendors overdrive that uses one. You probably ought to reflect on what is important to you. I would be thrilled with a now quiet original speedo even 20 MPH off.
Maybe some are GPS but those I'm familiar with use a transducer that works off the tranny gear via short cable or otherwise, I have a Gearvendors overdrive that uses one. You probably ought to reflect on what is important to you. I would be thrilled with a now quiet original speedo even 20 MPH off.
Dan
You've got a point Dan. I seldom rely on the speedo in highway driving. I normally go by my tach. About 2200 rpm on most of my cars, My Nomad has a 700R4 tranny and the Olds with the LS has a 4L60E transmission, so the OD gear keeps the revs down, but the Corvette has a close ratio Muncie 3sp with a 3.55 Posi R/E cruises at at over 3 G's.
IMO, Dakota Digital looks like crap in a C1. It just doesn't go with the car. Its like somebody painting a Swatch on the wrist of Mona Lisa
Get your mech unit (completely!) rebuilt, and put in a new, well lubed cable, your speedo needle won't bounce,and it will be quiet for the next 100K miles or so.
You've got a point Dan. I seldom rely on the speedo in highway driving. I normally go by my tach. About 2200 rpm on most of my cars, My Nomad has a 700R4 tranny and the Olds with the LS has a 4L60E transmission, so the OD gear keeps the revs down, but the Corvette has a close ratio Muncie 3sp with a 3.55 Posi R/E cruises at at over 3 G's.
When I'm on the road with one of my relics I'm looking for threats, which rarely involve the speedometer. I think the 62 is among the best looking of the Corvettes, it has its own swagger.
can u post photos of the 49 Olds? great cars, even with the 303. oldsmobiles always close to y heart. i've got a 50 cup coupe deluxe with original 303 and hydromatic. also have a 57 fiesta (wagon to these not in love with olds). it came from rust free calif. is a 4 door post with J-2 and batwing. jetaway tranny. i got a c-60 original 57 package, installed it, then discovered the batwing and the c-60evaporator assembly interfered with one another. so i kept the batwing and sold the c-60 setup. both olds are black. 57 has red inserts in side trim . " there's rocket for every pocket" mike mccagh
can u post photos of the 49 Olds? great cars, even with the 303. oldsmobiles always close to y heart. i've got a 50 cup coupe deluxe with original 303 and hydromatic. also have a 57 fiesta (wagon to these not in love with olds). it came from rust free calif. is a 4 door post with J-2 and batwing. jetaway tranny. i got a c-60 original 57 package, installed it, then discovered the batwing and the c-60evaporator assembly interfered with one another. so i kept the batwing and sold the c-60 setup. both olds are black. 57 has red inserts in side trim . " there's rocket for every pocket" mike mccagh
Your wish is my pleasure. My Olds club in NorCal will have a representation at a show in Tracy, CA on December 5th. With my Vette in the shop and my Olds down the Central Coast and my Nomad in SoCal I might have to take my black '56 Bel Air if we go.
Bob
1949 Olds 98 Convertible. No more than a handful in the states. 2006 5.3 Vortec with Sanderson Headers, 4L603 Transmission with Lokar shifter, Dynomax exhaust, cold air induction, rack and pinion steering, Wilwood brake system, Dakota Digital gauges, Flaming River Steering column. By Shell Beach where we have our beach house. Me and my Great Granddaughter getting it ready for a cruise down to Pismo.
IMO, Dakota Digital looks like crap in a C1. It just doesn't go with the car. Its like somebody painting a Swatch on the wrist of Mona Lisa
Get your mech unit (completely!) rebuilt, and put in a new, well lubed cable, your speedo needle won't bounce,and it will be quiet for the next 100K miles or so.
I bought a new cable from Zip. I can't find the gauge bezels that ID each of the individual gauges. I bought a set of lenses including the one for the speedo and the speedo chrome bezel. The one on there now is badly pitted.
Bob
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