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The electrical side of my ignition switch assembly failed so I ordered a replacement part. When I put the old cylinder in the new switch housing, the fit was so tight I could barely turn the key. It appears to be an interference between the two tangs inside the switch housing and the cylinder. I took it to a lock smith and they worked it so it's a little better, but still not usable. Contacted the seller and they said they'd send me a return shipping label. Wondering if this is a common issue and I'll likely see it with a replacement switch? Any suggestions?
The ignition switch in my ‘64 was replaced a few years ago. IIRC, I think it was a Standard brand switch.
Works normally.....no problems inserting the original lock cylinder into the new switch.
Thanks for the link Frankie. Wow, that is a big "suck it up" price though. But, it got me thinking ... I see that he is selling repaired original switches. I think what I'll do is open up my original switch and either try and repair the contacts (which is what I suspect is worn out) or replace with the contacts from the replacement switch I bought. I think the housing of the replacement switch is what is giving me interference problems. Will work on my switch and report back.
Often I'll pay the "suck" price for a nice piece to get me on the road and rebuild my own part at my leisure and then sell one or the other and recoup most or all of my outlay.
I've done a similar hybrid reconditioning as you're discussing with the headlight bucket rollover switch, the repro housing looked so awful that I swapped the innards into the original housing and everything worked fine - go for it...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Dec 3, 2020 at 02:16 PM.
I agree. I disassembled both my headlamp switch and ignition switch and cleaned everything up...all has been fine for 5 years now. Just go slow and be patient. Mine were oxidized and had poor contacts due to the car sitting for years and years prior to my purchase.
Proceed in a well-ilighted area on clean, white paper towels...if it looks like any parts are spring loaded ease them apart under a shop rag (or so a friend told me),
Take cell phone pics during disassembly -- you may think you'll remember how things go back together -- you won't (or so another friend told me)..
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Dec 3, 2020 at 02:09 PM.
Success! I removed the old electrical parts and replaced with new guts. Took all of about 30 min. Key cylinder turns just fine. Will connect it up over the weekend but I'm not expecting any issues there. Thanks guys!
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'64 Ignition Switch Replacement Woes
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