I couldn't remember who posted the pics. I got the idea to track weld the nuts from Chips pics. His is a better way to go but I was too lazy to take a half a day or more. Those are aircraft butt plates.

 

Here is a little better pic. Brass captive nut plates riveted to new inner panel at holes pre-punched by manufacturer.
Chip

 

Well it is now April and I have made some progress. Here are some pictures...

On a rotisserie, cleaned and scuffed and cleaned again.



Brush painted with SEM Rust Shield. The runs go up, just like the asphalt dip the factory did.


The really perfect cross member I found on Ebay. Mine was rotted like the frame.


Bolted in with grade 8 bolts torqued to 45 pounds.

Back on the lift for assembly. it seems like it took forever to get here.

3000 pound engine stand I made from one end of the rotisserie. Can you say overkill?


Posi housing I found on Ebay from the same guy as the cross member. Very good condition and straight. Mine was junk, converted from pass car with brackets mounted incorrectly etc.



New 4 leafs. Dayton from Rock Auto. USA made and very nice for a driver. They fit perfectly.

More torqued grade 8 bolts.


This will get final torque when on the ground loaded.

It is in!!! Bilstein shocks too.

I have a new sway bar kit coming as the car had none. Rebound straps etc.

It finally feels like I am getting some where. Bolting parts on has that affect.

 

Looks great! Thanks for posting your progress.

 

Looking great! Nice detail work on all of your projects to support the work too.

So one thing..... Just a suggestion, but it may require a little disassembly. It will save you a headache later..... Rebound straps.

In order to install them when the body is back on, you're going to have to do them one of a few ways.
1- Use ratchet straps to pull the spring up but hard to get around the upper frame with the body on..
or....
2- pull the 4 U-bolts and lower shock joint off and jack up the axle with a post jack while on the lift.(I just did this on a 59 this way)
or,,,,

You could do them now. But some disassembly required.

You could do the 2nd method above, or maybe this. I just thought of it for a bare frame setup like you show.
Support the frame rear frame crossmember with jackstands. Remove the lower shock ends from the mounts. Release the leaf spring rear shackles after padding the frame crossmember just below the spring ends(paint protection), as the spring end will have lots of weight.. Raise the jack, remove the jackstands, then lower the jack until the frame rebound strap loops get closer to the axle. Then install the straps and reverse operation to reconnect the spring shackles.

This could save some hassles later.

BTW, If you installed the straps before the axle went in, you could have just threaded the axle from one side through the straps then over the springs. That's usually what I've done on frame restorations.

Rich

 

very good job on your vette keep up the good work I like how you called your son bruiser Robert I also noticiced you had a rc airplain hanging I built one many years ago and the first time I few it I crashed it into a **** load of pieces that was the end of my model air plain fun lol .

 

I have plenty of ways to load the housing up towards the frame. Is there a measurement for the distance between frame and housing with the rebound straps in tension? I was wondering where they were supposed to stop it on it's downward travel. Since this is NOT a restoration I plan on bolting them in, not riveting. I had to load it up a good inch to get the Bilsteins in and on most old vehicles that is your rebound stop, but I am assuming now I need even less drop? I have a four post lift that I can put it on when it is complete. With full weight on the springs I should be able to go under and just bolt them in.

 

It's much easier to do it on the ground with the limited functionality of your arm, shoulder and back you mentioned. That's why I brought it up, but up to you....

I just did a set on a '59 and used #10 screws and nuts. I could've done it on the ground, but I have a 2 post lift and a floor post jack and in a few minutes I had the shocks and ubolts off and axle jacked up. All within easy reach.




I've not seen a spec on axle drop height. Usually determined by shock spec. Since you're using those Bilsteins not sure what it is. The 1960 strap spec length determines that height so choose that year when you get them. I have it documented but not handy. 61/62 are longer as the spec for tthe drop height may be a bit more.

Rich

 

It is now a rolling chassis. I still have to fabricate two brake lines but I am waiting on the tubing which is stuck in FedEx limbo. I have torn down the engine and started on that. It's pretty cool it still has the 327 crank, only .030 over on the bore, ten under on the crank. 2.02 heads and all of the date codes, heads, block and crank are all late 1967. I think this thing is almost a virgin. I didn't expect that. Here are some pictures.

This felt really good! Just over 5 months since I rolled it onto the lift.



Steeroids rack and pinion.

Every time I do final torque on a fastener, I dab yellow paint on it. Don't have to remember anything that way, which is a good thing at this point in my life.


My hydraulic engine stand built from one end of the auto twirler. i t sure is nice to get it up to a good working height with my back. I have a hell for stout small table the I can lower it onto, take it off the stand for cam bearing and oil galley work.

 

Coming along very nicely. Five months is moving right along. Steady as she goes

 

Nice work. Looking forward to more updates

 

I finally have attacked the body rocker reinforcements etc. What a task!!! So far I have done headlight bucket replacements with fiberglass repair behind them. New radiator support is in with the forward baffle. I installed front fender supports under the wind splits. Replace the inner fender to fire wall supports.. Both hinge pillar supports, both internal rocker reinforcements and body mount steel, inside and out. i am down to the right side rocker reinforcements and have them all fit and ready to rivet. In another week all of the really difficult projects should be done...Yipee!!!! Here are some pictures of all of the above, in case it may help somebody attempting this insanity.

I got both of these removed without breaking them. All of the seat mount captive nuts were rusted away.

Some glass repair for the headlight buckets.

The old buckets were rusted through. You can see the fender support up top.


These are the good ones from Corvette Central. The ones I got from Zip were for a c2 I am sure and would not fit.

It will be nice to adjust the headlights perfectly.

Into the abyss.


What is left of the hinge pillar support.

Sorry it's blurry. It still shows how much was gone.

These are riveted, top to the sill plate, and bottom to the inner rocker reinforcement. The larger upper flat spots are bolted to the bottom of the hinge pillar support with the body sandwiched in between. No holes yet, they have to be marked when fit, then drilled and a captive nut welded to them.

Cleco fasteners are your friend!

First of many fit ups.





I used the foam with a shower curtain on it to make crawling under the dash easier...a little. I foamed both seat wells and slide in from the other side head first and fling my legs up over the tank. I only had to have my son rescue me once when stuck.



Final bolt up.

Into the captive nut.



I could not save the inner rockers, so new ones it is. $$$$$$$

Bolted to the inside piece.

10/24 bolts, should work I hope.

Glued and riveted. We did find a great way to line up the lower row of rivets. With the rocker steel riveted up top and on the ends and the pillar bolted in, I fit the rocker glass. I ran a short led light strip on a piece of aluminum angle in behind the holes in the steel. With the angle correct you can see the hole clearly and mark it with a sharpie. Then drill and you are there. they all were perfect the first try.

New $$$ end cap. Couldn't save those either.


I bought an aircraft riveting tool and that has been great!

 

Great set of detailed pictures of this hard part of your job which will no doubt help others facing this. Good idea to slow down and enjoy the journey as you progress, you are doing great work. BTW that's a cool SNJ hanging in the background

 

I am posting some more pictures and will label them accordingly.

I suspect Bubba has been here judging from the hogged out holes. The striker nut plate was rusted away and had to be fixed.


I was not going to pull the new tank I fought into this car a couple of years ago, so I made an access panel in the fender well.


I used 10/24 screws with nylock nuts. it should stay put.

I found a rattle can red at Ace that is very close to the outside color. Not so much the jams. I think when I am all done I'll mask off and use it on the entire jam.

I remounted and sealed all of the cove spears.

Under coating.

I am going heater-less, so I made a brushed aluminum clear coated plate.


Inner fender skirt bracing. they were all rusted away.

I love the rivet gun!

 

Nice work Scott. You’ve been busy!

 

Great progress

 

It is now just over 2 years since I started this project. I just finished the alignment and it is ready to drive. Now I have to wait for our 1/4 mile muddy lane to dry out a bit and that could be awhile.

New captive nuts for hinges are in. New Ididit column in. Cluster is out for new speedo and tach.

Speedo rebuilt by Corvette Specialty of Maryland (Palm Springs). The electric tach is from them also.

I kind of rebuilt the tracks and now they work pretty well.

I hung both doors and that came out as well as it could have I think.





Built a 4 bolt main 327 with a 72 truck block. I used a forged Scat crank and rods, and Icon forged pistons. Too much else to list now.


I made this and have the water pump mounted on studs. If it fails on the road, I can change it and hopefully the lower four bolts will hold the engine in place.

Starting to feel like progress here, unless I think ahead to the body drop etc...

I used the frame as a test stand and broke the cam in. it worked great.

Gauges, toggle for fan. After I took this picture, I ran a wire for the alternator since I ran the fan the whole break-in.

I made these to lift the body. This was a test fit against the frame. Lots of accurate measuring, and it worked great.


Down she goes...I forgot to take a picture when it was all the way up and the chassis rolling under. I just got too excited. It went very well with just one helper.

Lots of planning with the shims and the body was just about perfect. My door gaps stayed right where they were on the dolly. I just had to lift both ends a little bit.

We just pushed it up on the lift.

My favorite view now, it's so clean! I have never worked on a clean car on this lift before. A wonderful experience.



Rear bumpers on, that was fun.

Start of the carpet install.

Never noticed this before now, Feb 18th 1960. Car's build month was march.

Trunk lid on!

Carpet done. Also not easy.


Deck lid and seats, I am stoked!

Front bumpers and grill. A lot of time on eBay piecing this together. It turned out one of my bumpers was 61/62 and the grill had been cobbled in. Thanks Bubba. The teeth were 3 fives, 3 fours some ones and no center. What a mess. it ain't perfect now, but it is a whole lot better. I can live with it.

I am pleased with the bumper fit.


Home made alignment. a little hokey.

Got the fronts straight to the backs.

Rack center exactly.

Caster and camber set, then toe, you can see the toe gauge on the lift.

 

It's fun watching it all come back together. It's like watching a time lapse movie. Tons of quality work you're doing. Thanks for sharing the experience.

 

Very nice build! You didn't take that long! I let mine sit for over 3 years after buying it June 1, 2019.
Did you keep the Auto Twirler after the build? I had made a rotisserie for a Dodge Dart and gave to with the car I sold. The guy had used it twice now with painting his cars.
I wish I would have kept and adapted for my C1 build. I own an auto body shop in the Georgetown neighborhood of Seattle but I have to do the build away from the busy shop.

 

I still have the twirler frame work, not the pivots. I was just using it as a dolly. It is all set up for a C1 right now, you could just drop the body on. I have not disassembled it yet. If you want to come with a truck to San Juan Island and get it you can have it for $800.00. It needs to be soon as I need the space.