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1964 327-300HP, manual trans. I did a frame off restoration and have been driving the car for the past 2 seasons (about 1200 miles total). This year I took the car out and the engine stalled. I seemed like it just turned off, it turns over but doesn't start again. After 10 minutes the car starts up. I'm assuming it's electrical but... Today I tested the coil on the bench and the resistance is correct. Re-installed is and once hot, it shut down. Does anyone know of this issue?
I have two other questions.
1.) putting the test meter on the POS & NEG of the coil with the engine running I get 7.47 v (see pic) Is this correct or should it be 12+ when running?
2.) When running, I can see gas lying the carb at the rear jets. Should I be seeing this or could I have a carb issue as well. It's also new.
The voltage would not be 12v as you have a resistor in line with the distributor . . and if the fault is only when hot I am not sure you would pick it up on the meter. I think resistance is more important but not sure what the reading would be on your coil and if it would show an intermittent problem
The very first thing you need to do is verify if it is a fuel or ignition issue. This is very simple to do. Next time it dies, give the throttle a snap while you look down the bores to see if you have fuel. If you do, then pull the coil wire out of the coil tower and hold it about 1/2" away while someone cranks the engine. That will verify no or good spark. If you have fuel and spark, it will run. My gut tells me you are having a vapor lock issue, but I would need to verify a dry carb pump shot.
The fuel you see down in the carb is normal and not an issue.
Coil. Opens up when hot and coil of wire expands, but will return to make contact after the coil of wire cools off.
However, I have seen (3 or 4 times) pin holes in fuel lines and cracks in fuel hoses on the suction side of the pump do the same thing - run for a few miles and quit. Set 10 minutes and start right up. Just a note that may lead you to check the fuel system when it quits to see if the carb pumps fuel.
Thanks everyone. I never knew that the coil getting hot could be an issue (and I'm 66 years old). I'll get one today and get back to you. Much appreciated.
After you check all the above ideas, check you ballast resistor. This happened to me 3 different times. Twice with my ‘63 & once with my ‘66. Only when hot and sometimes it would start right back up & other times it had to cool for a while.
I initially thought fuel with the ‘66 and so did a fully certified mechanic. Until digging deeper.
Good luck
To quickly cool down suspect electrical components, spray them with a can of Dust Off or similar product.. If the car starts and runs after that, you have found your problem. Jerry
Thanks everyone. I never knew that the coil getting hot could be an issue (and I'm 66 years old). I'll get one today and get back to you. Much appreciated.
I changed the coil and drove the car without stalling. The weather was only 29 degrees but I believe the issue is resolved. Going to change the ballast resistor as well. Thanks for the advice.
Engine stalls when hot
Coil. Opens up when hot and coil of wire expands, but will return to make contact after the coil of wire cools off. 
