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I have a few hairline cracks on my stinger hood on both sides of the cowl. I was told by the salesman who sold me my car that the hood was original to the '65, but the original owner added the stinger at some point. I'm not sure that's true since the underside looks pretty factory to me. In any case, it's developed the hairline cracks most likely as a result of dropping the hood in the past.
The car was painted about ten years ago and is a solid 9 overall. There's no reason to repaint since that's the only issue. I'd just like to prevent any water from getting underneath or any raising of the edges that might catch a wash rag and chip the paint. Any pro tips that would help?
If the hood scoop was added to the factory hood then the filler they used is cracking. The only way to fix it is sand the filler to remove the cracks and repaint. If you don't want to do that, there may be some sort of clear wax or paint sealer you could apply to try to seal the cracks. https://www.theartofcleanliness.com/...aint-sealants/
If the hood scoop was added to the factory hood then the filler they used is cracking. The only way to fix it is sand the filler to remove the cracks and repaint. If you don't want to do that, there may be some sort of clear wax or paint sealer you could apply to try to seal the cracks. https://www.theartofcleanliness.com/...aint-sealants/
I'm planning on using a ceramic coating to protect the paint. But that won't bond the hairline crack. I actually thought of maybe using a very fine paint brush with a penetrating clear epoxy sealer that may be able to get underneath to some extent. Or at least it would protect the edges from raising. I'm just not sure if that would work.
I would be afraid if you mess with it too much it could end up looking worse. One of the clear paint sealants should be enough to seal it to some extent.
what does the back side look like. you could take a syringe with super glue and fill in the crack
It seems to be a solid piece. I think it's unlikely that it's the original hood. Here's a picture of the underside and location of where the hairline cracks are on the outside of the "stinger" section.
You might try clear nail polish . . I would test it on an unseen area of the paint first
That's sounding like it might be a good idea. Thanks.
I was also thinking super glue, but I don't think there's much of a working time with that and I'd probably make more of a mess than any good it would do.
that is clearly a SB hood with a "stinger" bonded to it. your never going to fix the paint crack good enough to where it wont come back
OK, so it's good to know it probably is the original hood...I've been doubting that since I bought it.
I have no illusions that I can fix it, I'm just trying to keep it from chipping really. It looks pretty prominent in the pictures, but that's mostly camera effect. You can't tell unless you look directly at it in person.
I’m sorry but when I see this it makes you wonder what else they cut corners on. In the grand scheme of things repro bb goods are cheap and plentiful knowing issues like this won’t come up.
Does it disappear when you wet it? If not, the first step would be to carefully clean all the old wax out of it (without chipping the paint off!) otherwise a clearcoat would just seal up the white crack. I would test some type of clearcoat on a different/ inconspicuous, part of the car (door jam?) and see if you can just wipe it on, and remove it with solvent without hurting the base clearcoat. And if that’s the case, once it’s clean, just squeegee it full with your finger,remove the excess, repeat, until it’s as good as you can get it, polish the area, and call it “better... for now”, at least it won’t stand out as much, you’re never gonna fix it without removing it and remounting it, you’d be better off to buy a reproduction hood.
Last edited by 66427-450; Apr 12, 2021 at 06:53 PM.
I would be afraid if you mess with it too much it could end up looking worse. One of the clear paint sealants should be enough to seal it to some extent.
This! ^^^^ I agree with this completely. You're going to mess around with it and it's going to look worse. If the car is a solid 9 now nothing you are going to do from Hobby Lobby or the craft store is going to make that look better. Fix it right or don't mess with it.
That part is cracked because it's not really bonded properly to the rest of the hood. Unless you fix that issue anything you do to that crack will just re-crack later. The only way to fix that so that it won't come back is to get in there and properly bond that hood to the 'scoop'. I'm not even sure how you could do that, it's probably best to get different hood where the stinger was part of the original lay up or go back to the proper non big block hood.
I have several cracks in the paint on my '66 that I was worried would chip or flake too. I have used super glue on several of the cracks with good success (they haven't worsened in the last 8 years). My suggestion is to test in a very small area first to make sure it's not going to have a negative reaction with the paint (mine didn't). Even with the very fine tip, you'll still get a bit of excess onto the paint so with a clean dry cloth (an old t-shirt works well), wipe the excess immediately after application since you won't wipe the glue out of the recessed crack but will get it off the smooth paint. Be sure to use a clean section of the cloth with every wipe. It's not a perfect fix, but it may delay the inevitable significant proper paint repair.
This may sound bubba but you could hide the crack with a piece of black pinstriping tape
or fix the crack and paint it with black pinstripe to match the other stripes
Last edited by gleninsandiego; Apr 12, 2021 at 10:58 PM.
I have several cracks in the paint on my '66 that I was worried would chip or flake too. I have used super glue on several of the cracks with good success (they haven't worsened in the last 8 years). My suggestion is to test in a very small area first to make sure it's not going to have a negative reaction with the paint (mine didn't). Even with the very fine tip, you'll still get a bit of excess onto the paint so with a clean dry cloth (an old t-shirt works well), wipe the excess immediately after application since you won't wipe the glue out of the recessed crack but will get it off the smooth paint. Be sure to use a clean section of the cloth with every wipe. It's not a perfect fix, but it may delay the inevitable significant proper paint repair.
This approach is what I was originally thinking. The previous advice to make sure all wax is removed is also really good advice. I give this a try. Thanks, it's nice to know someone tried this with success which is what I was looking for. I understand this is not the perfect fix, but I didn't ask for the perfect fix. This is a driver and it's going to get chips and the typical small cracks here and there and that's OK with me.
Thanks for the comment!
Rick
This may sound bubba but you could hide the crack with a piece of black pinstriping tape
or fix the crack and paint it with black pinstripe to match the other stripes
This is also a great idea, I think. If it propagates further I may just do that. Yes, I may have to have it properly fixed at some point, but I'm not at that level of distress when looking at it yet...
Thanks for the idea.
Rick
This may sound bubba but you could hide the crack with a piece of black pinstriping tape......
Yup, that sounds Bubba alright , I’d rather have a honest crack on display, than some tape at a location it doesn’t belong, just a personal opinion.....
Last edited by 66427-450; Apr 13, 2021 at 08:54 AM.
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, I’d rather have a honest crack on display, than some tape at a location it doesn’t belong, just a personal opinion.....