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A few months ago I bought a solid state conversion kit for my original '66 voltage regulator. I had the original alternator and starter rebuilt and will be replacing the 55 year old engine wiring harness next. But I'm apprehensive about "fixing what ain't broke" in the regulator conversion.
When I had my original distributor rebuilt by T.I. Specialty, I had it converted to the breaker less ignition system. And the reasoning for converting the voltage regulator sounds the same: "Advantages: Electronic field control is more efficient and reliable than mechanical field controls that use vibrating points".
I know the distributor points vs no points issue has been beaten to death, so I'm not going there! But has anyone had a good or bad experience with the voltage regulator conversion?
Have had one in our Corvette for a year now, and another in a 68 Oldsmobile for 10 years. Both have worked flawlessly. Have had a couple of the original mechanical style fail over the years and one appeared to be responsible for cooking the alternator. For me there is no going back to the original style regulator.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
I replaced my old mechanical coil style voltage regulator with an electronic one from the FLAPS. Works fine.
I've read on this forum (recommend a search of this topic) that an electronic one results in a smoother voltage curve.
Also, there was an old thread (by FtF?) where people were backfiring their OEM and numbers correct voltage regulator internals with a modern electronic voltage regulator internals, for those that are concerned about such things.
... reasoning for converting the voltage regulator sounds the same: "Advantages: Electronic field control is more efficient and reliable than mechanical field controls that use vibrating points".
Ken-
The reason you wrote above is all the reason anyone should need. Electronic regulation is far more responsive and accurate in managing field current in accordance with system load and battery draw. It will keep your battery happier, your headlamps at steady brilliance and will typically last indefinitely. There is no reason to fear them. The only risk is hooking up the battery or jumper cables backwards. Electronic regulators do not tolerate polarity reversals well. Most of these auto parts store solid state regulators are cheap, the circuit board can easily be removed and installed in an original Delco housing. Frank posted photos.
This must have been before the solid stat board was sold separately, eliminating the need to remove one from a newer (non Delco Remy marked) regulator body. I bought a brand new Delco Remy marked regulator for $65 online and will convert that one, rather than gut my original dated 1966 regulator that I'll put away.
A few months ago I bought a solid state conversion kit for my original '66 voltage regulator. I had the original alternator and starter rebuilt and will be replacing the 55 year old engine wiring harness next. But I'm apprehensive about "fixing what ain't broke" in the regulator conversion.
When I had my original distributor rebuilt by T.I. Specialty, I had it converted to the breaker less ignition system. And the reasoning for converting the voltage regulator sounds the same: "Advantages: Electronic field control is more efficient and reliable than mechanical field controls that use vibrating points".
I know the distributor points vs no points issue has been beaten to death, so I'm not going there! But has anyone had a good or bad experience with the voltage regulator conversion?
Solid state voltage regulator conversion
Have had one on my 65 Gto for 20 years with zero problems!
I had one that was over charging (16vdc+) the battery and thus I replaced it. Two others have worked well for years now.
Since installing the solid state regulator, I'm also showing voltage readings as high as 16 or 17 volts as I raise the rpm. Can you tell me if you tested the alternator to eliminate it?
Since installing the solid state regulator, I'm also showing voltage readings as high as 16 or 17 volts as I raise the rpm. Can you tell me if you tested the alternator to eliminate it?
[QUOTE=big block ken;1603482781]
When I had my original distributor rebuilt by T.I. Specialty, I had it converted to the breaker less ignition system. And the reasoning for converting the voltage regulator sounds the same: "Advantages: Electronic field control is more efficient and reliable than mechanical field controls that use vibrating points". [QUOTE]
Off topic - but you had a TI distributor converted to some other means of electronic ignition? What was the advantage of that? Or was it a points distributor you had the convert?
Since installing the solid state regulator, I'm also showing voltage readings as high as 16 or 17 volts as I raise the rpm. Can you tell me if you tested the alternator to eliminate it?
Ken-
The alternator output is controlled by the amount of current flowing in its field coils. If full battery voltage is permitted to flow through the field coils than the alternator will go to its full output, 15-18 volts and on its way possibly damage bulbs, instruments and make your battery really unhappy. The regulator has but one purpose when used with alternators and that is to regulate voltage, to keep a lid on anything over 14.2 volts. As pointed out your regulator is not doing anything. You need to carefully check your wiring and see that you put that board and wired its pinout properly to the cars harness connector. The trouble is likely there or nearby. It is unlikely that a 10DN alternator (assuming that is what you have) would short internally and produce a full output. It is also possible that you have a bad regulator. More likely is that you have it mis-wired.
[QUOTE=DansYellow66;1603559220][QUOTE=big block ken;1603482781]
When I had my original distributor rebuilt by T.I. Specialty, I had it converted to the breaker less ignition system. And the reasoning for converting the voltage regulator sounds the same: "Advantages: Electronic field control is more efficient and reliable than mechanical field controls that use vibrating points".
Off topic - but you had a TI distributor converted to some other means of electronic ignition? What was the advantage of that? Or was it a points distributor you had the convert?
That was a points distributor I had converted, which has given me no trouble at all.
As reflected by the posts here, my assumption that the electronic regulator is more reliable and would fail open and thus prevent overcharging was wrong which is the reason I went to the electronic vs the mechanical which is know for the points sticking and overcharging. Smoother regulation is the only real advantage I now see. I have had mechanical regulators last beyond 20 years. In fact, I only have had one fail and have owned cars with them since 1964.
As reflected by the posts here, my assumption that the electronic regulator is more reliable and would fail open
Not a good assumption. Semi conductors and capacitors can fail with a hard short and often do. I agree mechanical regulators can last a long time, I have one in an Impala for 21 years! However a quality electronic regulator is superior in performance and in theory, lifetime.
As reflected by the posts here, my assumption that the electronic regulator is more reliable and would fail open and thus prevent overcharging was wrong which is the reason I went to the electronic vs the mechanical which is know for the points sticking and overcharging. Smoother regulation is the only real advantage I now see. I have had mechanical regulators last beyond 20 years. In fact, I only have had one fail and have owned cars with them since 1964.
About five years ago, I changed out the original Voltage regulator on my unrestored '54. That's what, 62 years of service?
It actually still worked but the cut out relay was becoming a little slow to close.
The VR on my '63 is original to the car.
With the kind of demonstrated reliability I've witnessed, I don't see an advantage to switching to an electronic regulator.
My 65 had a solid state regulator when I bought it and was charging 16+ volts. I put a used mechanical regulator on almost 3 years ago and it's still working fine.
I put a VR715 solid state regulator on a friend's 66 a couple of years ago due to a bad mechanical regulator. It has also performed flawlessly. Normally both types perform as expected. The VR715 price at local auto parts places has more than doubled in those two years.
Experience with solid state voltage regulator?
