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Air Shock Question

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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 09:35 PM
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I will be installing air shocks on my ‘59. Perhaps I don’t understand the dynamics of the air tubing, but it seems strange to me the the shocks come with a single filler valve. This means that right and left shock may “share air” so to speak. As one shock is compressed, it would bleed air to the opposite shock. This doesn't sound like a good thing. Am I cornfused?
Thanks,
Larry
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 09:57 PM
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Air shocks obviously work because they have been around a long time. I would say that they do "share air" but it isn't a problem because the system equalizes the pressure. If you hit a bump on one side it may momentarily push the air to the other side but as soon as you pass over the bump the pressure evens out and all is well.
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 10:04 PM
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Yeah, maybe. As a kid in the early '80s i had air shocks on all my cars...a 70 Firebird and 2 chrysler e bodies...just bolted them in and with no air they sit level. Then filled the "T" connector...no problem. I even did the same with this old hot-rodded 55 chevy truck i had a couple years ago...saw it at a car show 2 months ago...still had Monroes air shocks....
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 10:16 PM
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I was thinking more along the line of keeping the chassis flat during cornering, while acknowledging the fact that C1 ‘Vettes don’t corner very well to begin with.
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 10:18 PM
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Sweet Chebby truck. ❤️❤️
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 10:44 PM
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You can plumb them with separate air lines and fill valves to pre-load one side of the rear with different pressures for traction. But most sets are sold for jacking up a sagging rear or overloaded rear with a shared tubing system.
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 11:23 PM
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That was the direction of my thinking. The car will be streetable, but there will be times I will want to throw on slicks. I didn’t want to tub it, so jacking up the rear to handle slicks was my idea of a relatively cheap fix.
Thanks for your response.
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Old Jun 6, 2021 | 12:32 AM
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Yep, we used to fill the air shocks independently for drag racing.
But beware that C1 original rear ends are not the strongest, when paired with slicks...
Been there, done broke them.

Good luck,
Plasticman
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Old Jun 6, 2021 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Larphred
I was thinking more along the line of keeping the chassis flat during cornering, while acknowledging the fact that C1 ‘Vettes don’t corner very well to begin with.
Air shocks increase ride height and effective spring rate. So they add roll stiffness to the rear, which can increase the tendency to oversteer. Conventional shocks have NO effect on roll other than slowing the rate of roll.

The best way to reduce roll is anti-roll bars. Their contribution to roll stiffness increases with the FOURTH power of diameter, so even a 1/16" increase in diameter has a noticeable effect on both roll and understeer/oversteer balance.

Duke

Last edited by SWCDuke; Jun 6, 2021 at 08:53 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2021 | 01:29 PM
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Ha! Yes, I found that out in a funny way. When I took my differential apart last year I noticed some pinion gear marks on the housing. I couldn’t figure it out for the life of me. Then my youngest son reminded me that I let my oldest son borrow my car almost 30 years ago when he was in the Coast Guard stationed at Treasure Island in SF. He had it for about a year. I called him about it and he said his memory was foggy but he remembered removing the differential for some reason. Hyatt cleared up the memory problem.
For that reason I bought a Ford 9” with a Detroit Locker. I took it to a local guy to have it narrowed, but he screwed it up so I bought a custom made axle assembly. Took a whole lot more time and money than I had expected.
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Old Jun 6, 2021 | 01:34 PM
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You really know your stuff, Duke. I thought about adding the rear anti sway bar that came stock in ‘61, I think, but I had read somewhere that it wasn’t a good idea to add one to a pre-‘61 chassis. I don’t remember the reason. I’m guessing that you would know if that is right or wrong.
thank you.
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Old Jun 6, 2021 | 02:17 PM
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The rear bar became standard in 1960 and continued through the end of production in 62.

Last edited by silver837; Jun 6, 2021 at 02:17 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2021 | 02:49 PM
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Yeah, I was wrong. If I’m correct, the chassis on the ‘59 & ‘60 are identical, so perhaps I should look into adding a rear anti-sway bar.
Thanks for the info.
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 03:59 PM
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Duke, I totally forgot that I bought a set of traction masters. That’s the reason that the previous poster said that the rear anti sway bar isn’t a good idea. Since I’m ignorant on chassis dynamics, I try to ask questions, but in the end it boils down to the empirical approach.
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 04:07 PM
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You'll get flatter cornering and better traction control with individual air lines. When I use air bags or shocks on a vehicle, I always plumb the bags or shocks individually.
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 05:19 PM
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Thanks for that confirmation. I ordered an independent plumbing kit yesterday. 😁
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Larphred
Yeah, I was wrong. If I’m correct, the chassis on the ‘59 & ‘60 are identical, so perhaps I should look into adding a rear anti-sway bar.
Thanks for the info.
No. The rear bar was paired with a larger front bar on the '60 and later. Add that if you do a rear bar.
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 11:16 AM
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 10:28 PM
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Let me know how the air shocks work. I just flipped the rear shackles to get some more clearance.
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Old Jun 9, 2021 | 02:56 PM
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I’ll let you know pop, but she’s still got a lot of work to be done to get on the road.
I will mention an historical event. About 30 years ago one of my work buddies challenged me to race against his motorcycle. I borrowed some huge wrinkle walls from a friend. This required pumping up the air shocks. I had side pipes (don’t ask why&#128580 from which I removed the mufflers. We got to a deserted road and had fun. For the first time ever, I dropped the clutch and hit nitrous simultaneously. I have never launched that hard in my life and nothing broke. I even beat the bike. 😁😁
oh yeah, same car I’m rebuilding now.
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