[C1] Clutch going??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 181
From: Concord CA
Clutch going??
Ok...here is the story. My car has been running fine, no problem with the clutch. So, I decide to give it a tune up with the LAR's procedure, and now it goes like a rocket...so much more power....problem now...clutch is slipping in all gears when I get on it. Sounds/feels like an automatic transmission.
Say I'm in 3rd gear (or even second) and I stomp on it...the engine revs up, the clutch slips, then grabs.
I don't think this is an adjustment as I took off the rod going to the clutch fork, and the fork didn't move.
If this is a clutch going...argh!!
Anyone?
Say I'm in 3rd gear (or even second) and I stomp on it...the engine revs up, the clutch slips, then grabs.
I don't think this is an adjustment as I took off the rod going to the clutch fork, and the fork didn't move.
If this is a clutch going...argh!!
Anyone?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 17,571
Likes: 3,460
From: Fresno California
With the rod off the fork, the fork should move back and forth a bit. (Obviously you won't be able to depress the clutch with just hand power unless you're Superman). You either have a binding fork pivot or throw-out bearing so the clutch is being partially (applied) disengaged at all times, or you have a clutch and pressure plate going out. Likely number 2.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 181
From: Concord CA
With the rod off the fork, the fork should move back and forth a bit. (Obviously you won't be able to depress the clutch with just hand power unless you're Superman). You either have a binding fork pivot or throw-out bearing so the clutch is being partially (applied) disengaged at all times, or you have a clutch and pressure plate going out. Likely number 2.
When I took the fork off, I did just what you said, and there wasn't much play at all..maybe 1/8"??
My clutch is grabbing when the peddle is about 4" off the floor board...maybe half-way from the total travel.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,913
Likes: 283
LUK. Have the flywheel properly surfaced and balanced. Next install the clutch (without pressure plate) and have the assemble balanced. Use an all metal good quality throw out bearing. Also source the correct oilite pilot bearing.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 181
From: Concord CA
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 17,571
Likes: 3,460
From: Fresno California
The pressure plate is likely half the problem. They get weak with use and age. I got an entire Zoom clutch kit for my '61 from Rock Auto for less than $110. Disk, pressure plate, T/O bearing, Pilot bushing. The same kit from Summit was $225. LUK is a great clutch as well. Get a metal T/O bearing made in usa, though. Don't run the plastic bearing that comes in their kit. Your being only able to move the clutch fork an eighth of an inch with the rod off tells me something is broken/wrong inside that bell housing, though.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 181
From: Concord CA
The pressure plate is likely half the problem. They get weak with use and age. I got an entire Zoom clutch kit for my '61 from Rock Auto for less than $110. Disk, pressure plate, T/O bearing, Pilot bushing. The same kit from Summit was $225. LUK is a great clutch as well. Get a metal T/O bearing made in usa, though. Don't run the plastic bearing that comes in their kit. Your being only able to move the clutch fork an eighth of an inch with the rod off tells me something is broken/wrong inside that bell housing, though.
I have been reading on the forum people that some people have all their flywheel, clutch, plate, etc balanced...and others are claiming that's really not necessary.
A local classic car mechanic shop said he would recommend a "Muscle Clutch". Not sure if that is an actual manufacture or not.
Understood about the plastic throw-out bearing....plastic?? No thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 17,571
Likes: 3,460
From: Fresno California
Balance not really necessary unless you are doing a complete engine build, IMO. Also no 'muscle clutch' needed for your car and the way you drive it. Just a good quality single plate standard lining clutch with acceptable pedal effort. As I stated, I got mine off of Rock Auto and it's a Zoom and has been just fine for the past 2+ years. It also has a lot less pedal effort than the McCleod 'muscle clutch that's been in my '65 GTO for the past 37 years. That one will give your leg a real workout. Not needed in your application.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,681
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From: Central Arkansas
Take a close look at the flywheel when you get the clutch out - looking for black spots and streaks, fine radial cracking. Safest approach is to get the flywheel surfaced with a proper blanchard surfacing machine. Nice to have the clutch and flywheel both separately neutral balanced but shops that can do that seem to be getting scarce anymore.