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I am located in Michigan with a L76 engine that has been left abandoned for 25 years after being re-built and mothballed. I am currently doing the Marvel Oil cylinder fill to try and hand turn it over and I do mean by hand with no tools as of now. Definitely do not want to do more harm than good at this point. It was rebuilt with the original solid lifter configuration. Only oversight was I did not have the replacement crank drilled before installation.
I got the name of a builder in WI, Engines Limited, which is about 8 hours from me and a builder here in Farmington Hills, MI that does SBC for racing. Basically looking for someone to trust with a matching numbers engine out of a 1964 coupe that I have owned for 35 years.
Thank you in advance for any advice other than buying a time machine to return and complete the restoration 25 years ago.
IF it was sealed Air Tight all internal parts may be like brand new. If not, just the moisture in the air could have done a lot of damage. I had to break loose my L79 after it sat 30 years, first 28 in Michigan in a garage and then in California at my house. The cylinders were very rusty, mice had moved in and made a nest in one cylinder. It was not pretty. I hope yours was sealed up or at least exposed to much less moisture than mine was.
Thanks for the advice. I am continuing to be patient and feed Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder via the plug holes on a daily basis. I will try and use a flywheel turner to put a little additional pressure to break it lose. I am in no big hurry. I know the best course of action is to take it in to a builder and break it down. I will call the recommended and do a few visits. Spend more time on researching them then I did getting a orthopedic surgeon to replace my hip.
Has anyone used the crankshaft drilling template. Looks tempting to try but I would probably screw it up.
I don’t understand your post. Initially you said you are turning it over by hand….now you say it is locked up. My recommendation is DO NOT force it anymore than you have. If it’s locked up, take it apart. Yes, myself and many others have unlocked frozen engines in the past….but it’s a risk we knew how to take.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Of course, it goes without saying that the safest way to prevent additional damage to a long frozen engine is to disassemble it if it won't crank easily.
Sorry for the confusion. I have only attempted to turn over the engine using my hands on the flywheel bolts with the flywheel removed. It has not moved as of yet.
Sorry for the confusion. I have only attempted to turn over the engine using my hands on the flywheel bolts with the flywheel removed. It has not moved as of yet.
You won't get a lot of leverage like that. It could take 40 - 45 ft-lbs of torque to rotate an engine and you couldn't develop that much with your hands. I suggest you use a long bar between the bolts you put in the crank flange. That will help you develop enough torque to turn the engine.
Last edited by jim lockwood; Sep 25, 2021 at 04:03 PM.
He doesn’t have the flywheel on….so this won’t work…..like was said earlier, a big pry bar across the bolts would give him an answer if his engine is stuck or not in 2 minutes….no shipping or tax
To break loose my 327 with 30 years of rust inside, I soaked the cylinders with the 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. This mix has been tested to outperform all the store bought mixes for breaking rust loose. I soaked it for many days. Removed the heads and found big rust in two cylinders. I bought a nice adapter that bolted to the Harmonic balancer hub using 3 bolts. With this adapter I used a 4’ breaker, my 2’ breaker bar with a long steel pipe. By going forward and back time and time again it started working the rust loose. Today it is still not rebuilt but spins over with no effort. I know the cylinders need rebuild and the rings are shot but for tear down it is free to rotate.
Jim is correct, in your case your engine may be just fine. You just need more leverage to find out. I hope yours has zero rust inside.
You might pull the valve covers and run oil over all the rocker arms and try and get it down on the lifers and camshaft. All those areas that need oil to survive rotating.
Engine turns over easily. Put the flywheel on and used a flywheel turner with very little pressure. Marvel Mystery oil did the trick. Don't think I told the engine machinist that the engine would sit for 25 years before being touched but here we are.