[C2] Normal Operating Temp - AC Car Question

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Dec 23, 2021 | 01:53 PM

L84_Cpar

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Burning Brakes

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From: Northern Illinois

Normal Operating Temp - AC Car Question

Hi, I have a friend with a 65 350 AC car. He is concerned it is running hot. If the car is correctly set up (cooling system, timing, carb, etc) at idle on a normal 75 degree day with the AC not engaged, what temp should expect the car be able to run at? 180, 190, 200? Thanks!!!

Dec 23, 2021 | 02:25 PM

Powershift

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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky

Probably 180-190 F assuming a 180 F thermostat. Now during the summer, this same car's temperature will run a bout 210 F at idle and low. speeds around town. These are WITH AC engaged.

If AC is off, engine temperature should run steady at 180F thermostat setting year around.

Don't believe the instrument gage until you verify its accuracy with a good quality IR temperature gun.

Larry

Dec 23, 2021 | 03:01 PM

GTOguy

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From: Fresno California

What Powershift said. And 210 is not overheating and will not damage the engine, unless the engine detonates or pings at the higher temps. New cars run at 220-230 because it is more thermally efficient. (gas mileage)

Dec 24, 2021 | 11:06 AM

L84_Cpar

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Burning Brakes

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From: Northern Illinois

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTOguy

Thanks, I will pass it on.

His car is running at about 200 wo the ac (on a 75 degree day). He has checked his radiator, water pump and has replaced his thermostat, all with little change. The car is timed correctly and runs well but he is concerned it is idling at 200 not180.

I did not think it was a big issue given the car is stable and does not overheat just runs at the higher temp.

Dec 24, 2021 | 11:13 AM

Nowhere Man

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if you checked that temp with an IR gun I find something else to worry about

Dec 24, 2021 | 11:16 AM

Tampa Jerry

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From: Temple Terrace Florida

My 2 L-29 engines in my 66 and 68 run at 180 degrees here in FL. I use Dewitt's radiator on both with the proper seals and dams. One has Vintage Air and the other has a factory set up. Jerry

Dec 24, 2021 | 01:45 PM

Powershift

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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky

Quote:

Originally Posted by L76_Cpar

1. Check and verify gage reading with a good quality IR gun.
2. Make sure he is running a Dewitts aluminum radiator.
3. Make certain that upper radiator seal and lower radiator seal are in place. Also that the lower fan shroud extension is in place
4. Ensure he is using a good quality 180 F thermostat and 50/50 coolant mix.
5. Verify proper model and operation of the vacuum advance unit on the distributor. Original was a #236.

Larry

Dec 24, 2021 | 03:46 PM

GTOguy

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From: Fresno California

My '61 with a 383 stroker and brand new DeWitts top of the line radiator ran at 220 degrees on 70-90 degree days before I rebuilt the engine. It had 30% leakdown in every cylinder. Since the rebuild, it runs at 170-180 on days 80 degrees or less and it runs 210 on 100-110 degree days if stuck in traffic or at a long light. . At 210-215, the fuel boils in the float bowls of both carbs and results in stall-outs at stop lights. Car has Masonite heat spacers under the carbs and is running a vintage 170 degree 'stat. I think the heat generated by the 100 extra cubic inches, with the performance cam, has my cooling system at its limit, but it still works well enough. If I were back in the SF Bay Area climate, I would never even have a hiccup. These cars like cold moist air. Not dry hot air!