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Ok! So I need more help and information: Man, am I needy?
I have just purchased an Eaton HD (7 leaf) rear Spring for my 67 F41 suspension. Man, that spring has some razor sharp edges! Can you tell I haven't had any experience with this!
I am in the process of spending more money on a Liner Kit. What do liners accomplish? What happens if I don't use them? Will the attaching 4 bolts be too long if I do not use liners?
Quanta liners are the best in my opinion.............and what I have on my own car.
To determine the bolt fit with the new spring and liners, you need to accurately measure the height of the assembled stack in the center, add in the thickness of the mounting plate, add in the thickness of the lock washer(s). Call this Dimension 1.
Then run a fully threaded bolt or all-thread rod into the two blind threaded cavities of the rear cover plate, and measure the exact depth of the cavity. Subtract 1/4 inch for clearance. Call this dimension 2.
The exact bolt thickness you need is the sum of 1 and 2. These should be Grade 8 fasteners, Buy or cut to fit.
Good liners are important to the function of a leaf spring. There is a lot of friction between the leaves as the spring flex’s it lengthens and shortens. Really old Chevys used to wrap the spring in tin with a grease zerks and shoot them full. Worked really well for a smooth ride. Check out some of the hot rod shops. They have Teflon ones that work really well.
So, I take the clamps off the new spring, remove the center bolt, separate the leafs, paint the leafs separately, lay the liners in place then insert and tighten the center bolt.... I assume I would leave off the shipping clamps that I remove for disassembly....Correct? Oh! what about anti-seize? Do I really need to layer that between the leaf's?
Remove shipping clamps. Do not grease spring leaves or liners. Spray with Krylon Sprayon Cold Galvanizing Compound (or equivalent). It is 90+ percent zinc and will both protect spring and let spring leaves slide a bit. It is also the correct gray color.
C-Clamp both sides of the center bolt when removing and reattaching the center bolt???? Is that correct?
That won't hurt.............but c-clamps are not really needed in my opinion. I certainly didn't use them when I rebuilt my spring.
Larry
EDIT: Be CERTAIN that the head of the center spring bolt is not too high and will not bottom out in the rear cover hole. If it is too tall (and many reproductions are too tall) it may crack the rear cover.
Remove shipping clamps. Do not grease spring leaves or liners. Spray with Krylon Sprayon Cold Galvanizing Compound (or equivalent). It is 90+ percent zinc and will both protect spring and let spring leaves slide a bit. It is also the correct gray color.
When I did the ones on my Camaro I could not get the bolt/nut on without clamping. Probably depends on how much arch the leaves have.
I got em....so I'll use them! And let you know whether I needed them....
I have a (9 leaf replacement) on my 67 with an F41 suspension package. I'm only guessing that a previous owner did not like the ride.....So, a 7 leaf is going back on. All other F41 components are installed. Actually didn't handle very well with the 9 leaf rear spring and the heavy duty fronts......IMHO!
All this is a result of my chasing down a vibration... After I get this and a CORRECT Snubber Bushing kit installed, I'll be able to check my driveline angles to see if that is my vibration issue.
Following up on my Vibration/Suspension/Snubber/Strut rod/Driveshaft angle project.......LOL!:
I got my Eaton 7 leaf HD rear spring. Disassembled it, painted it (Zinc), and reassembled and added bushing cups (interesting).......Had to use 2(two) 4" c-clamps to bring the springs back together.......So we will install both the spring and replace the tampered with snubber Bushing set to get my Drive line Angles corrected. My differential Pinion is actually down 1.5 degrees and my transmission is roughly @1 degree down.....so it's a little off........COULD BE THE PROBLEM!!!!
HD Leaf Spring Liners
