Based on the insane values foe corvettes, I would like to replace my not original engine, I have a 63 tanker with a vin # of 3022 so I believe the car was built on Nov 6th. This was originally a fuel car. So I need to know what to look for regarding all the block numbers and pad #. Any information is appreciated.
thanks

 

Are you talking "period correct" or restamp ?

 

unless your current engine is tired, and needs gone over I don't see any reason value wise to change over. no matter what you pick it still will be not original. unless you find that needle in a haystack. finding a correct block dated wont be hard. if you want one with the correct date and the correct suffix code with anther cars vin thats going to be next to impossible for a fuel suffix code. now you can go down the rabbit hole and faking it all but that is shady and could end badly for you when you get caught.

 

There are 1963 FI engines for sale. They show up from time to time. What is the VIN of your 63 tanker?

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ht=1963+engine

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ht=1963+engine

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ht=1963+engine

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ht=1963+engine

You get the idea. These are all listed in the ORPHIN VIN-stamped parts and documents sticky above.

 

Period correct

 

3022

 

OK, the VIN of your car is 30837S103022. Looks like a build date of about Nov 7, 1962.

So you could use an engine dated basically from the beginning of the 1963 model year until about Nov 5th, 1962 or so. First 1963 Corvette was build on Sep 18, 1962; the engine could have been dated a month or so earlier.

Realistically, the engine build date would precede the vehicle build date by one to four weeks, with 2 weeks being about the average (if memory serves me correctly).

Curious, is your car a Z06, or just an FI car with a 36 gallon tank? I am assuming that is is a Z06 given the early production date.

I am thinking that the ideal engine for you, assuming you do not locate the original engine is:

1. An over the counter engine dated properly for your car and stamped with an RF engine code - this will be darn near impossible for find
2. A passenger car 250 hp, manual trans engine properly dated for your car. This engine would have a R engine code. - still tough to find, but doable.
3. A properly dated engine for your car with a blank engine pad - a little bit easier that the two above.

Any of the above 3 would add to the value of your car over a NOM motor, in my opinion. You would also need to get a correctly dated FI unit, and have the engine build to factory specs for a 360hp engine.

Good luck with your car.

 

Thanks for the information, I would love to find the right block, I believe I can get the right fuel injection unit from Jack Podell.
I believe the car at one time in the 60s was a race car. Don’t have any history the first 5 years before I bought it.

 

Before you pick a source for a fuel injection unit, you would be well served by checking the references of the potential seller.

 

I can’t believe an NCRS guy like yourself is saying this. There are plenty of “restoration/restamped date code correct” NCRS Top Fight and beyond cars out there in the world that have certainly been worth the effort and expense of doing this. While I believe in disclosure to anyone other than NCRS judging format I see nothing wrong with it at all and it will certainly increase the value of the car disclosed or not. NCRS talks out of both sides of their mouths on this issue. It used to be “don’t ask don’t tell” because if you wore truthful about an engine they did not spot as a restamp you lost points for it so it made liers out of many people that normally would not be.

 

PM sent.

 

I don't like that fact people are faking things to increase the cars value. to me that is just lying. if he can find a dated block with the correct suffix code with the wrong vin that is one thing. at the end of the day, you are only fooling yourself into thinking you got something you don't. and there is nothing wrong with a NOM car. I own one, the engine in my Chevelle is dated to my car but it still carrys the impala vin and suffix code. everything else is correct though.

 

Well, there are MANY that will argue this point with you.

Let me ask you this. If you find a correct casting numbered block and date code, build it to factory specs have the block broached as factory did and stamped with the correct characters how is this any different than any other well done reproduction part made with a factory part number? What is so special about a union auto worker that many not have even had a high school diploma (not that it really matters) verses anyone else that does it in this manner?
Again, since this is such a touchy subject in the hobby I personally believe in disclosure to the BUYER and no one else as they are the only ones spending the money.

 

a reproduction part doesn't swing the cars value by 10k. I never seen an ad asking for no reproduction parts on a car. but I always see a add for a car with its born with block

 

Your comments tell me your math skills need some attention.
It is all relevant to the price of the parts, it is percentages. Poor repo parts vs. good repo parts make a BIG difference to some just like it does with the OE verse a NO engine. Why do you think RENTING certain parts for judging in NCRS is such a big deal?

 

i get that but overall price differences between NOM And OM cars makes a huge swing in price. Most have don’t know how to tell repro parts from OEM or just accept them as the norm. But most scrutinize engine pads like it’s the holy grail.

 

You are forgetting one key element and it is the VERY reason there is such a big price difference in two identical high end cars. DOCUMENTATION.
People pay much more for a documented rare hipo car than they do for a like car without it. So from this point it is sort of self policing. And I am not talking about a difference of $10k but often times more like $100k.

 

I think that there is nothing wrong with restamping a block for a Flight Judging. Read and interpret the rules and judging guides. It does not say anything has to be original. It has to appear original and, in some cases, function as original. To a very discerning eye and a body of exhaustive research.

Now- selling it? That’s different. There’s no way that anyone should represent something as original or correct when it’s not. No way. That’s a hard thing to assure when cars change hands down through an ownership chain.

 

My friend has this engine in his 64. Not correct for his car but might be convinced to sell it to get it in the correct car.

 

The original car for this engine (30867S19024 / 30837S119024) does not appear in the NMVTIS database.