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I have a '59, 270hp, 2X4 carbs.
After looking up the specs on distributor, I don't think I have the correct distributer for my car.
This one has worked perfectly for years, but I had a fire and needed to replace the Vac advance.
Specs say I should have a 1110891, CB D NV/SO. That translates to a Cast Iron Bowl Distributor, Duel Points, NO Vac Advance, Stand Pipe Oiler.
On mine the points/condensers were replaced with the Breakerless SE , and it has vac advance. This is how I got it when I bought it, and it worked perfectly until the fire.
It looks like a cast iron housing Delco single point distributor V-8 non-tach drive distributor... probably fifties or sixties vintage. What is the ID number on the VAC and does the dimple on the side of the gear point the same direction as the rotor tip or in the opposite direction?
When in the car was the VAC actually connected to a manifold vacuum source?
Thanks for the response Duke,
As for the VAC ID number I can tell you there are 3 sets of numbers 201 15 MS see attached pic
I can not confirm the rotor is installed correctly,
Yes, it was connected to the manifold
The specs for the 201 15 VAC are start @ 8" Hg, 15 deg. (crankshaft) @ 15.5". Assuming your 270 still has a Duntov cam or equivalent, idling at 1000 or less will not produce sufficient vacuum to keep the VAC pulled to the limit. It doesn't pass the Two-Inch Rule. You should replace it with a B28 (Airtex 4V1053) start @ 4", 16 @ 8".
There is theoretically only one way to install the rotor, because one indexing pin is round and the other is square. The gear can be installed in two positions, dimple pointing about the same direction as the rotor tip or in the opposite direction.
Assuming your rotor is properly installed, does the dimple on the side of the drive gear point in the same general direction as the rotor hot tip or in the opposite direction?
Thanks... the reason I asked is that I've heard reports that if you have a 2 x 4 manifold, in order to get a single point distributor with vacuum advance to drop in and get the timing right without the VAC hitting an interference point you have to have the dimple pointing the opposite direction as the rotor.
On a 327 it HAS to be point in the same direction as the rotor or you can't get the timing right especially on SHP engines that need 12-16 initial.
You're better off with a vacuum advance distributor rather than the OE non-vacuum advance dual point, but assuming your have an original 270, does it still have the Duntov cam or something else? Reread post #4. You have to figure out what you have. I cannot do it from the internet. On thing to start with is manifold vacuum at idle speed. xx " Hg @ xxx RPM, and if you don't state the specific RPM I will not respond. Reporting idle vacuum without specifying the speed it was measured at is MEANINGLESS because idle vacuum depends on idle speed. Guys do this all the time and it drives me nuts.
Suggest you read my tuning seminar...search for threads stated by me.
If your existing distributor does not have a band with a part number I have no idea what it is. MILLIONs of these cast iron housing non-tach drive distributors in dozens or different setups were installed in Chevrolet car and truck engines.
My humble opinion sez you re better off with the distributor you have. You might do maintenance such as lubing the grease well, tightening the drive gear end play and if you have a person with a distributor machine optimizing the ignition curve. The cost is very modest and the results will amaze you.
To tighten the end gear drive play you first need to determine the play using a feeler gauge. Looking at your photo it appears to be about 60 thousands. Assuming its 60 thousands you want to reduce the play to between 5 & 10 thousands. You need to purchase a shim kit that you will add about 55 thousands. You can purchase the kit thru Amazon..As far as finding someone to recurve your distributor you can Google for one.
Distributor ID issues
