1964 Convertible 300hp, 4 speed. I have a Hurst shifter with the original type T-handle lever. Gears all shift fine but reverse is a real struggle. It feels like it is hitting something going into the reverse slot. Shifts fine into reverse once the shifter is all the way to the left but it is a two handed operation to get it all the way to the left. Had it up on the lift yesterday and thought it might be an adjustment of the rod but no adjustment would make a difference. Is there a way to get this problem fixed short of pulling the shifter out of the car?

 

They are made that way to compensate for no mechanical reverse lockout. The short Corvette handle makes the effort greater than cars with a longer handle. Someone posted on here about two weeks ago, their modification of the spring in the unit to ease this. See if you can find it. The rest of us just slap the lever over and shove it forward.

 

As you search....Don't rule this out...........

Good Luck!

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sues-66-a.html

 

If two hands are required to pull the shifter over into the reverse gate, you're probably just fighting Hurst's very stiff spring. You might try slapping it over to the left if your arm strength is marginal, or you're dealing with arthritis, etc. This works for most folks who struggle with it.

If the problem is not simply one of difficulty overcoming the stiff spring, but rather is one of an apparent mechanical obstruction, it's almost surely a mis-alignment of the neutral gate and/or worn linkage components. In this case, adjustment is the place to begin.

First thing to do is figure out which problem you're dealing with.

Live well,

SJW

 

My hurst shifter was never any problem or hard to move to reverse. It was in the car for years, maybe just well broken-in

 

Mine is a bear too.

 

I've had the Hurst shifter in my car since 1978. I drove it with the T-handle for years and getting in to reverse was uncomfortable for the palm of my hand. About 20 years ago I switched to a large ball and it is more comfortable for me. I'm so used to it now that even at age 75 I don't think twice about going into reverse.

P.S. As best I recall, transitioning from pulling the T-handle left to pushing it forward allowed the sharpish edge of the handle to dig in to my hand. The ball solved that problem.

 

You all sound like a bunch of weak-armed girlie-men…

just kidding…

I had no problems getting into reverse with my Hurst, but then I realized it’s been over 17 years, and as with everything else as I get older, The increased effort isn’t as easy as I recalled…

I had a 66 Chevelle with Hurst, that I added the short repro/stock-looking Corvette handle…

 

Im assuming the T handle term as he used it was in reference to the faux Muncie handles for hurst shifter bodies that include the non-functionable t-trigger. If I’m wrong and he’s referring to the Hurst t-handle, then yes, that might make it less feasible to slapping the shifter ball over Into reverse.

 

My '64 is similar to yours, and sometimes I too need to use two hands, but, only sometimes. It is hard indeed to move it over w/o either a slap or gently using two hands.

 

I did the below again last week. It is a solution. Scott

A while ago a discussion here was about the effort it took to put a Hurst shifter into reverse. I offer this as a fix for you. The shifter has to be
taken down to nothing of course and the spring is a little tough to replace but you will be glad you did. The effort is OK now and you will not have to "slap" the handle to get it into reverse as Ive seen some folks do.
There is two coil springs inside the shifter. You will replace the little one.
I found these at ACE Hardware in their nut/bolt dept and it is a #130 and cost $2.15. If you dont have an ACE here are the specs on it.
Length 1.8" , OD .579" , ID .41" Wire .077".
I cut 3 coils off the ACE spring & ground the cut off kinda flat to the length like the other end.
The stock Hurst spring is 1.25" in length, the OD .615", the ID is .425 ". The wire is .095 thick.
Great time to grease that shifter while its apart for the spring replacement
Fogaley@sbcglobal.net Scott
There are several videos on how to rebuild the shifter, from Hurst too, which can be used to get to the spring and
more importantly how to reassemble correctly.
The cross/tee shaped piece that goes into the ID of the new spring is proof that your new spring is OK is sizing on the ID/OD. Length will decide how much effort you have to exert in the "into Reverse" action. My sizing of the length (cut 3 coils off) of the spring was a guess but works.

 

I didn’t like my Hurst shifter either, sold it and bought a stock repro unit. Glad I did!

 

Someone, many years ago said it's a basic mechanical trick to always go into 1st gear, then reverse. That is my practice and it works. Dennis

 

I have had many Hurst Competition Plus shifters in my Corvettes over the years and in my opinion it is the best
shifter available for a Muncie or a T10 transmission. The fact that it takes a little effort to put it into reverse
gives me a sense of satisfaction knowing that it will not be shifting into reverse by mistake.
The stock shifters remind me of stirring a stick in a bowl of jello.
Others my not agree, but this is just my opinion.

 

I could not agree more. Well I could but it isn't necessary. My Hurst requires a hard bang to the left for reverse - against the gate opening - and has for 10 years. I was told early on that is how they are and so I've accepted that gladly given the performance and snick-snick feel over that of a paint stirrer in a cold gallon of epoxy with the stock pieces. Drove a friends 64 365 HP with a standard stirrer and wholly moley is that woefully different. Who wants to row a boat? Why didn't Chevy use a better setup?

Dan

 

OK< Update: I took the shifter **** (large one) off and took the t-handle and spring out to see if anything there was binding. When I reassembled the shifter handle the T-handle I may have put it together a different way than it was because now the T handle is disabled, and the shifter goes into reverse much better now. I am not sure it worked before but I always used it anyway. It now only moves about 1/8" and before it was 1/2 or better. Whatever I did, now it is just going against the reverse spring and I can live with that. Thanks for the advice guys.

 

You referenced a Hurst shifter in your opening post. I have one in my car and know and understand the parts and functions. Your latest post talks about taking the **** and the t-handle and spring out. Those three components are not Hurst components. It now sounds like you have a basic GM shifter. You sound as if you have fixed the problem, but I'm confused. Dennis

 

The original-looking shaft that is attached to many Hurst CP shifters in C2s carries a fake reverse lock-out release mechanism. It is there only to make the Hurst shifter appear visually to be the OEM shifter. My '63 is so equipped, although with my choice of handles, it isn't going to fool anybody. There is no actual reverse lock-out -- only the stiff spring to discourage accidental travel into the reverse gate.



Live well,

SJW

 

I am a little confused also. It was just today that I found that the lift-up t-handle did not do anything. Maybe it never has but I have always used it. Maybe it was installed in such a manner as to impede the reverse shift. Anyway, now it shifts similar to my 1964 Nova gasser with a Muncie and Hurst shifter only the shorter shift lever gives me less leverage and is therefore harder to find reverse. At my advanced age I have learned not to look a gift horse in the mouth and will drive and shift happily into reverse from now on.