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I spent today trying to install power breaks on my 67 L79. Doing this alone is a "treat". The support that fits into the driver's side cowling did not line up with the holes. This required quite a bit of material removal with the Dremel. Finally I got it lined up and the upper bracket from the booster installed. The first obstacle that I cannot resolve is the yoke rod connecting the pedal is too short. I have it extended all the way and installed in the lower hole, still the pedal is about a full inch lower than the clutch.
The next issue is I cannot attach the master cylinder. The bolts are too short because the bracket holding the brake distribution switch gets in the way
Any ideas of how to resolve these issues would be greatly appreciated.
The bracket for the Pressure Differential block mounts in front of the MC mount tab, not the rear. With it rearward it will cause 2 problems... Clevis rod to pedal arm too short as you're seeing, and more importantly, the booster actuation rod will be too far from the MC piston.
This will make everything else fit more properly. The power brake pedal is normally a bit lower than the clutch.
Also, in your kit there should be a small extension bracket that bolts to the upper hole in the pedal arm. This is for the brake lamp switch.
Be certain the Booster rod is not engaging the MC piston when assembled. It should be just shy of engaging the MC piston. Best to take a measurement to be sure. If the rod is too long and activating the MC piston when assembled, it can cause "brake hangup".
If the rod is too long you can grind a little bit off. Trial fit, etc.
The bracket for the Pressure Differential block mounts in front of the MC mount tab, not the rear. With it rearward it will cause 2 problems... Clevis rod to pedal arm too short as you're seeing, and more importantly, the booster actuation rod will be too far from the MC piston.
This will make everything else fit more properly. The power brake pedal is normally a bit lower than the clutch.
Also, in your kit there should be a small extension bracket that bolts to the upper hole in the pedal arm. This is for the brake lamp switch.
Be certain the Booster rod is not engaging the MC piston when assembled. It should be just shy of engaging the MC piston. Best to take a measurement to be sure. If the rod is too long and activating the MC piston when assembled, it can cause "brake hangup".
If the rod is too long you can grind a little bit off. Trial fit, etc.
Rich
Agree, and I would check and see if your booster has an adjustable center pin/rod.
The bracket for the Pressure Differential block mounts in front of the MC mount tab, not the rear. With it rearward it will cause 2 problems... Clevis rod to pedal arm too short as you're seeing, and more importantly, the booster actuation rod will be too far from the MC piston.
This will make everything else fit more properly. The power brake pedal is normally a bit lower than the clutch.
Also, in your kit there should be a small extension bracket that bolts to the upper hole in the pedal arm. This is for the brake lamp switch.
Be certain the Booster rod is not engaging the MC piston when assembled. It should be just shy of engaging the MC piston. Best to take a measurement to be sure. If the rod is too long and activating the MC piston when assembled, it can cause "brake hangup".
If the rod is too long you can grind a little bit off. Trial fit, etc.
Rich
I agree, you can see he has the bracket on before the master cylinder holding it out from the recess in the booster causing the bolts to appear too short . Everything should line up if he corrects this.
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P/B conversion troubles
